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Everything posted by mnnaj

  1. I've mostly been a lurker here. I comment occasionally and read many of the posts. I have been feeling very grateful for this community of people lately. I have found answers without asking the questions. And yes answers to questions I didn't know I had. Some of the comments are way over my head - technical glazing and electricity posts come to mind. I may not understand what you are posting, but I appreciate that each of you takes the time to share your knowledge with those of us who want to know. I am very glad to have found this group of knowledgeable, agreeable and respectful people. There are too many of you to name and I don't want to miss anyone. I know if I see a particular avatar that I should read that post. Thank you for your time and experience. I hope that you all continue to contribute for many years and that I can continue to lurk, while avidly reading the posts. Nancy
  2. I also suggest a barrier cream of some sort, I ordered mine from Walgreens, can't remember the name. There are barrier creams that act as a resist to water (useful for clay) and barrier creams for oil (working on cars or with oil paint). I used mine for a while, but couldn't remember to put it on BEFORE touching the clay. It works when it is used. Nancy
  3. We have found ourselves with quite a number of posts that have schmutz on them so they don't sit flat. Some of them have been ground down. We now have a pile of posts of various heights, just off by 1/16" , give or take, from each other. I'm toying with the idea of cutting the posts down to the next full inch to try to get them all the same size. The formerly 5" posts to 4" ect... Are there any suggestions on what kind of saw will work? I have access to an older type miter saw and a table saw. How about blades? And being kind of new to the maintenance side of kilns and shelving - is kiln wash necessary on the ends of the posts for electric kilns that only fire to ^6? Thanks, Nancy
  4. It looks like there is no glaze on the indent inside the hat. Do you have a post that is small enough not to touch the glaze that the hat could ride on during the firing? It would still need to be tall enough to get the edge of the hat off the shelf. Nancy
  5. Thank you for the notice on Warren, I live in Minnesota and didn't know he had passed. He affected many of the people I have learned from. Nancy
  6. How do they plan on keeping the loose powder from the inside of pots? Personally, I wouldn't want a pot I worked hard over to have schmutz (crap) or powder blown or dripped into it. If it won't melt on the kiln shelf, it will leave marks in my pots - the bowl or plate will not have a usable surface. Ish. Nancy
  7. Take classes. The dream of being a potter or playing with clay maybe upset by the reality of things you can't control, like back pain, allergies to dust, always having rough dry hands. Your instructor will be able to give advice on how to do things easier - things that might take you months or years to discover on your own. I also find that the interaction with other students improves me and changes my work. Seeing things online are ok, but being able see it done, walk around the demo, look at it from another angle, touch the clay at each stage, that is worth much, much more. Nancy by the way I started classes at age 50.
  8. Thank you both, I hadn't seen the thread, but it was good information. I'll relay it to her as time goes by (if she is pregnant), Nancy
  9. As a new teacher in a community education setting I have a question that I have not seen in the Forum. One of my students may be pregnant. I have looked in books on health and safety by Monona Rossol, Michael McCann, and Angela Babin. None are specific to clay, pottery and glazing. Other than the basic precautions all of us should be using (wet mopping, dust mask, frequent breaks for back), are there things/chemicals that we should be concerned about? I'm mostly thinking glazing, are there chemicals she should avoid, or will using gloves and good housekeeping be enough? Thanks for your input. Nancy Johnson
  10. Can you list the address of the show? I'm not clear on where it is. Thanks Nancy
  11. I am learning to weave. I've been quilting for 50 years, knitting & crocheting. Love the fiber arts. Nancy J
  12. Thanks for your comments. It's an urn with a cork type in the opening, I'll make sure to let who ever is filling it know to leave a hole when sealing it. Never thought of someone diving it up.
  13. A friend with a terminal illness wants an urn to eventually (soon) be sunk into a lake with some of his and his now deceased brothers ashes. I'm thinking that ashes, even in a ceramic urn, may float. Any ideas to insure that the urn will sink during the ceremony? Thanks Nancy
  14. What about putting a drop down table sort of thing, attached to the end of the slab roller. That way you can move it out of the way when using the kiln. Google has a number of images that could give you ideas. Nancy
  15. I've made vases about 18" and 14" tall, not cone shaped though. Sometimes as you pour the excess slip out it will 'glug' causing the soft slip to pull away from inside the mold. Be very careful and slow as you do the pouring. Experience will show you how long to let the slip stay in the mold before you decant it. I found that the drier my mold, the less time I had to let it set up. Perhaps one of your mold pieces has something on it that resists water, that can slow the movement of moisture into the plaster and cause thin/weak spots. Nancy
  16. I have been able to rub the pinholes out at greenware. Depending on what your mold looks like will depend on if your piece will crack. How many pieces is your mold? Is it mostly enclosed or have a large open area? I have had some luck on a 3 piece mold taking one side and the bottom off, leaving the other side horizontal with the piece still inside of it. Then putting the first side back on and flipping it and exposing the wetter side to air. You can reclaim the botched and dried pieces - takes time, but it can be done. It takes practice and time to make good slipware. Good luck Nancy
  17. Sorry for your loss. For human urns I've been told to figure 1 cubic inch per pound. For a 200 lb person + or - that would be an inside measurement of 6 x 6 x 6. I've figured that to be a bit less than a gallon size. For Thanatos at 10 lbs that would be less than 3 x 3 x 1.5, maybe a cup, cup and a half. You do beautiful work. I'm sure Thanatos would love being always near you as you play in clay. Nancy
  18. I use stretcher bars from the painting section, they come in all sizes. I suspend the clay on a piece of cloth over the bars after I cut the clay to size.
  19. As a preventative I use a barrier cream. I don't remember the brand. I special ordered it from my pharmacy. Apparently it comes either as a water barrier cream or an oil barrier cream. The instructions for mine were to rub it in and then run the hands under cool water. The water would bead off where ever the cream was. Every couple of hours it should be reapplied. hope this helps. Nancy
  20. I've used a drill bit, I have various sizes. I clean the edges with a larger bit. It's easy to make any kind of decoration with it.
  21. Terry, make sure there is not a drop or molecule of glaze on the box or lid where they touch, especially a chino. I was in a class where a bunch of students thought they could wax over the glaze and still get the top off, they were surprised. Sorry to hear about all the injuries, even though they sound funny - stop before you hit meat. I'll remember that. MNNAJ
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