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mnnaj

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About mnnaj

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  1. Sorry, they have all been given away. I don't have photos of them. Nancy
  2. If you can crochet, cut a bag into 1 long continuous strip, the width will vary depending on what thickness you are comfortable using. Crochet into a rug, either round and round or back and forth. I've made plastic bag rugs for years to put outside the tent, in the car to kneel on for a flat tire or picnic and for the back door. Nancy J
  3. Thank you everyone who has responded. I know that the college I learned at had a mold that we would use to make peeps - in two sizes. I was thinking of throwing them because the community ed program doesn't have room for making plaster molds or storing casting slip. Thank you Min and Neil for the idea about the flaps. I share space with 3 other instructors so putting screws in the side of the kiln is something I will need to clear with the others. Mark C. It's good to know that I can use the ^6 I have - at least for the first trials. Nancy J
  4. Hi. We've destroyed most of the peeps in the community studio. I'd like to try throwing some. We fire to ^6. Can I use our ^6 clay, or should I get a bag of ^10? A bag of clay is cheaper than purchasing a dozen cast peeps. Thanks Nancy J
  5. Depending on the type of autoimmune disorder your son has, clay may not be the best thing to work with. I was teaching a class that included an adult student with an autoimmune disorder. She had to drop out of the class because of a reaction to the mold that can be a normal part of the clay. The first day of class was fine, but once the bag of clay was opened the mold bloomed and she had to stop coming. I suggest purchasing a bag of clay and a book that has the word "handbuilding or handbuilt" in the title. That way you can test to see if his body can deal with clay. The inter
  6. Doing like OldLady suggests will create a line, but if you work quickly it the white will absorb around the color - the color won't pop off. Another idea might be to coat the entire inside of the mold with a thin coat of the color(s), add the white for thickness. Then when the piece is bone dry use a resist and do some hydro-abrasion to wash the color down to the white. It might not look like marbling, but it can be cool.
  7. After reading all of this my questions are: Do you need to reclaim your clay at all? Could you afford to throw it away until Covid 19 has a vaccine? Does it build up so much that it must be dealt with every week? When I was taking classes at the U of MN, there must have been 16 to 20 class times a week with 20 students per class. We reclaimed the clay maybe every other week. Unless your students produce large amounts to be reclaimed, would there be a place to put the reclaim so it could sit in brutes - large buckets - for a month (or two)?
  8. I would suggest using a kiln shelf. Shelves are already strong. Using a different clay as a waster or shrink slab is not recommended because different clays shrink at different rates. Nancy
  9. Unfortunately I do not have photos. The school I work in has a red cone 6 clay and a white cone 6 clay. I have used the two clays together and extruded them as a hollow 6 sided tube. This is what I recommend; -let the two clays be in the same bag for at least a week to get to the same moisture content. -make 2 logs of each clay to slam/roll together, stack them like a checkerboard. - put in the extruder , don't mix the clays too much or it will be one color. Good luck - most of the color changes were in stripes, they didn't move around on the bias. One of my stude
  10. I too have made urns for family. All had seen the jars before they died. I have made small urns for myself and my husband. He wants his ashes to be in multiple places. The idea of "parting stones" sounds interesting. A stone is portable, no one would look twice at someone dropping a stone at a rivers edge, an urn seems to need to be concealed or buried. My only regret would be that I would be unable to do it myself, because I would be gone. Nancy
  11. The form that Margaret made out of foam looked similar to the one you just posted out of clay. She glued multiple thickness together to get the height she wanted. After carving out the foam, she mixed up some plaster, when it got to the point of being thick - not hard, she spread it on like frosting over the entire top of the hump, she also set the form on some plaster to completely surround it. I believe she tapped and jiggled the form a bit to get it to flatten the high spots . There may have been use of a surform or green scrubby to smooth things out when it was hardened. Nancy
  12. Once you get the form made out of the foam, you could coat it with plaster to make a mold that will dry the clay. I saw Margaret Bohls make a form that way. It was lightweight and easy to use. Nancy J
  13. Thanks for all your comments, I've been in contact with the school administration. For right now I will address it on a case by case basis, perhaps bring it up during orientation first day. Nancy
  14. If your piece is large, try making a waster slab of the same kind of clay. Roll it out about the same thickness as the pot, let it get to the same moisture content and when you fire put the pot on the slab for both bisque and glaze firing. Doing this has saved many pots. I use wasters on flat bottom things all the time. Nancy
  15. She came to the first class and had no problem, her bag of clay was just fine. The next week the red clay in her bag was was splotched in grey mold, I think from being open, then closed for the week. That's when she started having trouble. I told the class that mold was a part of clay, and to most people it was like mold on cheese, no big deal. I also said if people reacted to mold, or if they wanted to, they should take a claritin or benedryl. She didn't tell me till later - after she dropped the class about having an autoimmune problem. I have been very diligent about keeping t
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