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mnnaj

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About mnnaj

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  1. Doing like OldLady suggests will create a line, but if you work quickly it the white will absorb around the color - the color won't pop off. Another idea might be to coat the entire inside of the mold with a thin coat of the color(s), add the white for thickness. Then when the piece is bone dry use a resist and do some hydro-abrasion to wash the color down to the white. It might not look like marbling, but it can be cool.
  2. After reading all of this my questions are: Do you need to reclaim your clay at all? Could you afford to throw it away until Covid 19 has a vaccine? Does it build up so much that it must be dealt with every week? When I was taking classes at the U of MN, there must have been 16 to 20 class times a week with 20 students per class. We reclaimed the clay maybe every other week. Unless your students produce large amounts to be reclaimed, would there be a place to put the reclaim so it could sit in brutes - large buckets - for a month (or two)?
  3. I would suggest using a kiln shelf. Shelves are already strong. Using a different clay as a waster or shrink slab is not recommended because different clays shrink at different rates. Nancy
  4. Unfortunately I do not have photos. The school I work in has a red cone 6 clay and a white cone 6 clay. I have used the two clays together and extruded them as a hollow 6 sided tube. This is what I recommend; -let the two clays be in the same bag for at least a week to get to the same moisture content. -make 2 logs of each clay to slam/roll together, stack them like a checkerboard. - put in the extruder , don't mix the clays too much or it will be one color. Good luck - most of the color changes were in stripes, they didn't move around on the bias. One of my stude
  5. I too have made urns for family. All had seen the jars before they died. I have made small urns for myself and my husband. He wants his ashes to be in multiple places. The idea of "parting stones" sounds interesting. A stone is portable, no one would look twice at someone dropping a stone at a rivers edge, an urn seems to need to be concealed or buried. My only regret would be that I would be unable to do it myself, because I would be gone. Nancy
  6. The form that Margaret made out of foam looked similar to the one you just posted out of clay. She glued multiple thickness together to get the height she wanted. After carving out the foam, she mixed up some plaster, when it got to the point of being thick - not hard, she spread it on like frosting over the entire top of the hump, she also set the form on some plaster to completely surround it. I believe she tapped and jiggled the form a bit to get it to flatten the high spots . There may have been use of a surform or green scrubby to smooth things out when it was hardened. Nancy
  7. Once you get the form made out of the foam, you could coat it with plaster to make a mold that will dry the clay. I saw Margaret Bohls make a form that way. It was lightweight and easy to use. Nancy J
  8. Thanks for all your comments, I've been in contact with the school administration. For right now I will address it on a case by case basis, perhaps bring it up during orientation first day. Nancy
  9. If your piece is large, try making a waster slab of the same kind of clay. Roll it out about the same thickness as the pot, let it get to the same moisture content and when you fire put the pot on the slab for both bisque and glaze firing. Doing this has saved many pots. I use wasters on flat bottom things all the time. Nancy
  10. She came to the first class and had no problem, her bag of clay was just fine. The next week the red clay in her bag was was splotched in grey mold, I think from being open, then closed for the week. That's when she started having trouble. I told the class that mold was a part of clay, and to most people it was like mold on cheese, no big deal. I also said if people reacted to mold, or if they wanted to, they should take a claritin or benedryl. She didn't tell me till later - after she dropped the class about having an autoimmune problem. I have been very diligent about keeping t
  11. Hi. I am a teacher at a community education center. I teach adults. Recently I had two new students who dropped out after 2 class times. They both said they had problems with the mold - one is in her late 60's and has autoimmune difficulties. To prevent this problem (she was sick for 3 days after the second class) in the future, do you think that the program description should say something about mold in clay? Or if you have an autoimmune disease please check with your doctor? Or do you think that someone with an autoimmune problem should check with their Dr. before signing up for the c
  12. The ash will affect the surface of the pots, and it could be directional. If you have access to some cone 10 glazes use them. I have glazed the inside of my bottles, jars, cups - anything I wanted to make fully glazed and food safe, then put flashing slip, oxides or nothing on the outside and let the fire do as it will. If you have seashells to put on top of the wadding, you will find it makes an interesting affect. If you want to try some cone 6 glazes I would suggest you put them on the inside of your pots only. That way if they run because they are being fired too high they might not
  13. I've mostly been a lurker here. I comment occasionally and read many of the posts. I have been feeling very grateful for this community of people lately. I have found answers without asking the questions. And yes answers to questions I didn't know I had. Some of the comments are way over my head - technical glazing and electricity posts come to mind. I may not understand what you are posting, but I appreciate that each of you takes the time to share your knowledge with those of us who want to know. I am very glad to have found this group of knowledgeable, agreeable and respectful
  14. I also suggest a barrier cream of some sort, I ordered mine from Walgreens, can't remember the name. There are barrier creams that act as a resist to water (useful for clay) and barrier creams for oil (working on cars or with oil paint). I used mine for a while, but couldn't remember to put it on BEFORE touching the clay. It works when it is used. Nancy
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