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cstovin

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Posts posted by cstovin


  1. On 8/4/2019 at 10:20 PM, neilestrick said:

    You need to be more precise in the making of the slip. HERE is a good resource. Sodium silicate deflocculates the clay, meaning it makes it more fluid without adding more water. So you have a slip that is fluid enough t o pour in and out of the mold, but is low enough in water content that it will dry quicker and shrink less in the mold. Also make sure your mold is totally dry. If it is a newly made mold, it must be dried completely before using, which could take a week or more depending on conditions.

    Awesome thanks!!


  2. On 8/4/2019 at 8:50 PM, Hulk said:

    Hi cstovin!

    I don't slipcast - that said - I do watch vids!

    Are you using plaster molds? ...plaster absorbs moisture, which should firm up the slip closest to the mold.

    Are you pouring out/back the slip some time after filling the mold? I'm seeing that molders are casting "hollow" pieces. The slip up against the mold, being stiff enough to resist flowing, stays in the mold; after pouring, the remainder has air on one side, plaster on the other - now wait for the casting to dry some more before splitting the mold! ...experience tells how long to wait before pouring, and how long to wait before splitting. Looks like thickness is about 5mm or so - not so thick as to split/crack, and not so thin as to break easily either. 

    A quarter sized puddle of slip dries to leather hard on my plaster bat rather quickly, hmm... 

    I’m waiting until the slip has dried enough to flip the mold over and it fall out; I’ve done this a lot before I did pottery, but the shavings from my pottery scraps just never seem to dry enough to get it out of the mold


  3. @liambesaw - what are those colors (the top picture) - they look cool - 

    I really like the "farmhouse decor" style - which lends to reddish maroon, oatmeal, etc. - but not sure what I like the best - 

    The other thing I am trying to consider - do I make / take a lot of holiday theme items?  My fear there is that I will end up packing a bunch home until next year :)

    thank you all for the feedback - excited to get it all together

     


  4. Hi All,

    I was searching for the most popular glaze colors for 2019 (or trends) - I have done some shows, but my setup looked more like 1000 pieces of misc. pottery.  I want to go back to a more "solid" look, and maybe have 3 sections (or 2) with only a combination glaze mix and/or solid color glaze (no layering) so my booth doesn't look so "Hodge Podge"

    I looked at the other newer post on the users first pottery show and how to display, but my question(s) are:

    1) I was looking at coming color trends for 2019; they are gearing towards yellows, oranges, turquoise....does anyone apply those trends to pottery and decorations?  These were general color trends and also included fashion trends

    2) Given the two markets I am starting to make more work for are towards the holidays, what "colors" do you suggest?  I don't want to gear my items towards Thanksgiving or Christmas (I don't want to end up taking a bunch of things home that are all holiday themes) - but what colors/color combinations are best around the holidays?  Or does it matter?

    Thank you in advance for suggestions -

    I want to make my Holiday markets more profitable :)


  5. Hi there

    I have no idea if this is the right place for this, OR if these questions have already been answered - I searched, but couldn't find what I was looking for

    I wanted to know how to use Red Iron Oxide in sections of a regularly glazed piece (see attachments), such as a coffee cup with a red iron oxide section....

    1) How/what is the suggested ration for mixing up red iron oxide to be used as a glaze?

    2)  Do I do the red iron oxide part of the glazing first, then add the rest of the glaze?  (see picture for better idea of what I am trying to explain)

    3)  There are also pieces that appear to be raw clay in parts of the piece, and then regular glaze?  (see white and red tree photo and green coffee cup with faint tree lines) - are these types of works still covered in some sort of oxide?  Or is it really just un-glazed areas of the work?

    2018-12-18_8-43-24.png

    2018-12-18_8-43-53.png

    2018-12-18_9-02-28.png

    2018-12-18_9-02-54.png


  6. Hi all

    One more question :)

    I wanted to make some mugs, and either add another small slab to the top of the mug that has a saying on it, or carve a saying directly into the mug

    How you get the words to be smooth?  Is there a tool that makes this kind of thing easier?  I can see using a needle tool, but it always leaves slag.

    If I used a slab/plate and attached that to the mug, it is better to use waterslide/decal paper?  Are stamps the preferred method?

    Also, my handwriting stinks :)

    I searched the site, but it didn't return what I was looking for, but I am sure someone posted something here like this before

     

     

    il_340x270.530991958_72a3.jpg

    il_340x270.1538906736_m6gs.jpg


  7. thank you all, a lot of good ideas; this seems more complicated than I thought it would be lol

    I actually tried searching for bisque frames, but I need an opening for a 8x10 photo; all I can find is mostly 4x6 or 3.5x5"; so that doesn't really help much

    I have a customer that wanted 2 photo frames, horse haired - and I just can't seem to get the frames made.  Granted it is harder for me to do on bisque - but at least that was an easier and much quicker option :)

     


  8. Hello all

    this seems like it should be easy, and I tend to make things harder than they need to be; I have to make two picture frames that have an 8X10 opening; what I am struggling with - how do you assemble the easel and glass?  around the opening do I trim 1/8" so when the glass is inserted, it sits flush with the bisque after the clay is fired?  Do you glue the easel back onto the back of the frame?  

    Any help/suggestions would be great - it really can't be this hard :)

     

     


  9. Thank you - will read the blog you posted (GEP)....I did read that standing gives a much better presence than sitting - will try that :)  I just started pottery a few years ago, most of the items I have now are decorative; I know I need more functional things, which will help.  Maybe that is a followup question - if you have items that are more "decorative" - how do you sell a vase lol; I have done hang tags which has been suggested on here, I also have setup examples which has helped.

    One more question - what do you do with your items that are not 100%?  Example: I had some jewelry cups for earrings and brushes that the glaze was too think n the bottom; they are still nice and functional, just not as perfect as I like.  do you put them on a "markdown" shelf?  Do you throw them away so you don't have a "shelf of shame" lol - 

    thank you all - appreciate the help

    C.


  10. Hi all; I have been doing craft fairs for a little while, and I have a decent product; my downfall is the selling point; I have tried to find older posts - for some reason, my "forum" now displays horribly like old HTML layout - which makes this impossible - but how do you engage customers, without running them off, but at the same time, acknowledging them and increasing sales? I always greet them, watch body language to see how to proceed next; I don't pounce on them if they are "just looking"...but I can't seem to find a way that works for me....any suggestions?


  11. Hi all

    I have a cress 25P for the life of me I can't figure out how to run; my pottery teacher said that firing it for pottery isn't going to work, it is more a "hobby kiln", but I am sure they are able to fire to cone 6

     

    it has a temperature wheel, a thumb-wheel numbered I think 1-10; and the hourly timer.

     

    the hour and temperature timer I think I get.

    what their instructions are lacking, is information about the thumb wheel

     

    There is also a setting on the side that you can set to fire faster or slower

     

    So, here is the question, how is the thumb wheel supposed to work?

    If I fire on the slowest speed, put the temperature at cone 6; once the thumb wheel has reached 10, does the kiln shut off?

     

    ANY HELP would be appreciated - I just can't get a clear picture of how this is supposed to work; have a manual, but it doesn't have any information on this specific configuration

    thanks in advance :)

     

     

     

    post-14131-0-57733900-1479735702_thumb.jpg

    post-14131-0-51856400-1479735736_thumb.png


  12. Hi everyone, 

    I have a glaze recipe that is yellow, with dark specks/streaks in it;

    It says the specks/streaks are "Iron Spangles"

     

    I googled that, and found that iron spangles:

    Iron oxides give a wide range of colours ranging from honey yellow, brownish reds, black, purple dependent on firing conditions. In reduction a blue colour is possible. - Iron spangles are actually LARGER pieces of iron oxide

     

    I can't find any place in US where they sell them, only sites in the UK; anyone know how I could/would get my fingers on some?

     


  13. HI all

    I have been scouring Google, and I can't find much information on using englobes and combining them with mid-fire glazes?  I know the studio I used to take lessons with would for example roll a leaf into a plate, cover the surface with a black englobe and then fire; after it was initially fired, he would then use a combination of mid-fire glazes - 

     

    I can't remember if this was the correct sequence; what glazes work well (cone 6) with englobes, or anything about how to even approach this :)

     

    Any info would be much appreciated!

    C


  14. Hi all

    I thought I had seen some posts on here before, but I couldn't find them, so forgive me.  I have seen the hang tag approach, and thought that was cute, but ....

     

    When a person has a lot of different items, some functional and some non-functional - what do you feel is the most aesthetically pleasing way to put prices on your work so they do not distract from your work or your booth?

     

    Forgive me again but:

    Hang tags:  I hate hang tags: to me, they look sloppy; they fly all over in the wind; they litter your booth floor when they fall off; people always have to turn them over to read them.  Overall, I just think they make my booth look more like a thrift type booth than more upscale.

     

    Round Sticky Dots:

    These do have some advantages over hang tags; they don't fly around; however I still find they fall off and litter the floor of the booth; they don't stay on, so if things don't sell, I always have to reprice everything once they get unpacked again for the next show.  They do look slightly better to me than hang tags, but one other disadvantage is they are small; not everyone can read them.

     

    Tent Cards: I tried these, but where I have so many items that vary in price and usage, it was almost like every item has to have it's own tent card; then they don't stay put either

     

    So: What is your favorite method of marking your prices on your items so they still appear clean, professional, and pleasing - yet people don't have to search for the prices, can read the tags, and they stay where they are intended?

     

    Thoughts?

    Would love to hear what works for you and why.

     


  15. Thank you all, maybe I need to refine what I am asking; we were talking about for example the next fiiring (glaze firing) when doing "ceramics".  The thought being in ceramics, still making greenware, firing to cone 04 then glaze fire.  The statement that was made was that a "glaze fire" for "ceramics" as I eluded to takes less time than "pottery" glaze firing.

     

    Thank you for the input; I never really saw a different between making/mold pouring and associated process vs. Clay/Pottery hand building and now wheel works....

    Input helps a lot!

    C.


  16. Hello all,

    I have my own equipment at home (manual cress kiln and pottery wheel) and I also take a class; last night there was a comment that firing pottery is much different than firing traditional ceramics.  (Meaning on average when firing ceramics it would take about 8 hours, pottery should take closer to 12-16 for Cone 6)

     

    Is that a true statement?  That firing pottery is a much longer process than for ceramics?

    C.

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