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Everything posted by cstovin

  1. My Mistake - I was right, it is a "beginner" wheel, I just got the wrong wheel - it is the "ie" model. Thank you Mark for the suggestion - I took off the Bat, it isn't the bat, it wobbles when I have everything off of it, and just have the wheel (no bat, pins, etc) on high and low speeds and it definately wobbles. Today was the first time I tried to use it, but have no idea what else could be the issue...... I guess I better research how much a new head and bearing would cost, maybe call Amaco? I don't know where else to look or what to look at. I honestly don't know much about the wheels, just that they turn (I know, pretty niave) but this is the first time I have bought one, so I don't really know the mecahnics, etc. so thank you for all of the suggestions. Charlene
  2. Hi all, I just got a new to me wheel this weekend; it is a Brent EX and was used 2 times. I know this is a beginning wheel, but for where I am, that was fine plus I got it for a great price and the lady had only used it twice. I got it setup today and have tried almost all day to get things centered; I am not an expert yet at centering, however have NEVER had this much trouble getting a small mound of clay centered, let along trying ll day and still not getting nothinganything centered. I finally asked my husband to come down and take a look with me. We took off the ball of clay I had on the bat, and noticed that the bat was slightly "wobbling" a little. I took off the bat and ran my finger along the edge of the wheel while it was turned on high speed, and there is a slight "shimmy". All the wheels at the art center where I have been going don't seem to have this little "shimmy", or if they have, I have never noticed it. Today I coned up, coned down, coned up, coned down, coned up....all I succeeded in was making a mess, and a mess, and a larger mess! Could I have done this to the wheel when I transported it? If there is a slight shimmy in the wheel, could this be the cause of my centering whoes, or am I making a huge deal out of nothing (my husband things it isn't that bad....lol). If this IS the potential cause of my centering woes, what are my options for finding the cause of it? Or would I be better off parting with the wheel and saving my money for another one? (this one retails I believe for about $550) Thank you for the help Charlene
  3. One more.....can you put the glass on greenware and then fire to cone 06? Do you put it on Bisque and if so then do you fire it to a glass working range? Thank you all!
  4. Some funny, and great information! Thanks, can't wait to try it out!
  5. Some funny, and great information! Thanks, can't wait to try it out!
  6. WOW - THANK YOU EVERYONE... What I am wanting to try is using recycled glass, break it down into frit, and add that to small trays, tiles, and things like that nature. I know it can run, but I have no idea what the process is - meaning when I add the glass, is it typical to add clear glaze over the top? I don't even know where to start when working with this stuff, and I have no problem with my own experimentation, I just need a place to start - a general "how to". I will go back and read the posts that you all have suggested - THANK YOU...and I also did a "search" with no results- agreed the search engine here is not too good; I just don't know if for example when using ground glass, and small pieces for instance on trays of a decorative sort, if you are supposed to glaze over the top, just fire them and see what happens or what exactly a person is supposed to do - couldn't find much info on it at all. Thanks everyone - Charlene
  7. Hi all, I can't find much information already on glass infused pottery, how to do it, and the like - but I wanted to try using reclaimed bottles (bottle frit from the same manufacturer, same bottle type,etc)... can someone tell me or give me even basic information on how this process is done? I googled it but really didn't find much information on it - which I was kind of surprise. Very interesting - want to try it!! Thanks! Charlene
  8. Thanks everyone for the responses; currently I use the "business card idea" also to price things and most of the time it works ok, but it is hard sometimes to keep it with the item. Most of my items are Raku or Horse Hair and small/decorative so they don't really have handles, or places to tie something to, so in those cases I tilt the card up against the item, but then find that people piock things up, move things and things get shuffled around and out of place. So, most of the time it works - other times, seems like I get a huge mass of business card chaos! Thanks also for the packing ideas; I have thought of boxes from the liquor stores; had not thought about using the band saw to cut my own custom dividers, etc. The paper is just becoming to time consuming, and I was repacking everything in "small" sized home depot cardboard boxes, but I am finding also that after a few shows, the main boxes, although small, aren't holding up well. SO, I am thinking I need to go to a plastic/tupperware or Rubbermaid type container? C.
  9. Hi all - I guess I have two questions really - 1) when you go to shows, how do you like tagging your pottery when using hang tags and/or price tags? I don't really like putting a sticky tag on the bottom of my piece just because I don't like my clients having to feel uncomfortable picking it up to look at the price on the bottom; the other issue is a lot of the times, the sticky tags don't stay on, and come off. The other issue, I like the idea of hang tags, but a lot of my items are decorative, and don't lend themselves well to a place to attach the tag? What/how are your preferences for marking your items so that they are easy to read, stay on your pieces in between shows, and are easily viewable? 2) Packing up, setting up - how do you pack your pottery to travel? I was wrapping mine in unprinted news print sheets which works well for protection but the downside is it takes a LOT of time to unpack and set up, as well as pack back up when leaving. I was wondering what all you guys do when you travel to these arts/craft shows? What is your preferred method to pack all of your pottery? Obviously it needs to be well protected so it doesn't break - but sometimes I keep thinking, there must be a better, faster way? Thanks everyone! Can't wait to see what everyone has to say! Charlene
  10. Thank you, can't wait to try again - I think I must be trying when it is too wet; most of the time I get a goopy clay string to pick out of my impressions; C.
  11. Hello When you write sayings, quotes, etc on your clay surfaces what do you find works best? Rubber stamps? Hand lettering? Stencils? Metal Stamps? Is there something I am not mentioning? Also, when wanting to inscribe something on your clay surface, what is the best time to add it; when it is rolled or thrown? After it is leather hard? Suggestions? Thank you all! Charlene
  12. Thank you, will google where I can find it; I LOVE Raku, but also might have to give that up if I can't get over the fumes; It never used to bother me this bad, but seems the more I do, the more it bothers me. Then anything "wax" or sealer that is a spray or lacquer type just adds to it - thank you for the help! Charlene
  13. Hi all, I know there has been a lot of discussion of sealers to use for Raku that work and I have searched for previous posts. I have read that some have used an Acrylic sealer with UV protection to seal their Raku work. I know I am asking for "trade secrets" but I am asking for some help. I have only been doing Raku for a little over a year, so I don't have the time investment having something sit outside for numerous summers seeing how well a surface finish holds up; my larger problem is that I am VERY sensitive to scents. The Raku and horse hair process is something I LOVE and emensly enjoy, however getting through it just about kills me. The first few months it didn't seem to bother me as bad as it does now, but now I have to use a heavy caliber respirator/mask and equipment to Raku/horse hair to keep from inhailing the smoke. Afterwards, even the soot off of the pots still will bother me and irritates my respiratory tract. The question I am asking, I have an acrylic sealer with UV protection I use; but I hate it. It seems to work fine, but with everything else, it stinks. Not only does it also stink and bother me to breathe around it, you can still smell remnants when you unpack the pottery and display it. I know there are a lot of people around like me that are sensitive to smells. I want people to enjoy my work, not be potentially put off by the smell. Granted, most people aren't as sensitive to the smells as I am. I know I am asking a lot, but most people don't mention what they use on here other than "Jasco" was mentioned quite a bit; it you have something that you like that seems to work long term, that doesn't smell as bad as Krylon or something like clear spray paint, would you please mind helping me? I am in desperate need of ideas to try for sealer that not only works, but isn't so irritating to my respiratory system that I can actually finish my goods, and be around them when they are displayed that I can no longer smell the finish on them. Thank you all Charlene
  14. Thanks Colby, I suspected that was the issue; just yesterday I tossed it.....lessons learned!
  15. Hi Mark - I trid the link and it doesn't work; I also tried searching on underglaze-transfers and didn't find the topic I thought you were directing me to...thanks for the help C.
  16. Hi all, Normally, my Naked Raku for the most part comes right off with a little work. Sometimes I do have to soak it a little, and there are spots that are a little more work than others, which is to be expected. I just fired a red clay laguna B-Mix wavy bowl with NAked Raku. It accidentally got fired at a little higher temp than recommended, it went to 1600 degrees. The bowl came out fine, but I can't seem to get the Naked Raku off for the life of me. It is coming off in spots just fine, and in others....can't get it to budge. Anyone have any tips or tricks for getting this stuff to come off? I have tried gently (and a little more force) scraping it with a credit card so I don't scratch my clay surface. My bowl has been soaking now in water for the last 24 hours thinking that might help loosen some of it. That has helped a little, but not much. Any ideas would be appreciated. I know I have probably contributed to this by over heating, but there has got to be a way to get this off. Charlene
  17. I was curious about the reply on using a "decal"...I was interested in doing some decal work a while back but could only find one source (and not even close to local) of paper to use that was microwave safe, dishwasher safe, and food safe. Now I can't even think of the name of it, (lazertran?). Papillo was recommended by several people to me, but it wasn't guarenteed to be safe for all the things my pottery may be used for (water, micro, food...). Can someone tell me what paper they use or recommend for making their own decals?
  18. I love it.... I guess it goes without saying, if you are going to do it - do it right!
  19. Thank you, When I said that bisque is generally fired at cone 04, I was saying in the ceramics world; when you buy bisque from Duncan, Mayco, or ready to paint, it has typically been fired to cone 04. I haven't done much other than Raku or horse hair, and that I know most people have a preference of firing to cone 06; Thank you all for the information - I just didn't know if because I had some dishes that were meant for possible food articles, if that meant that they needed to be re-fired at cone 04? I had called our local art center, and that was the suggestion - so I thought I would actually ask here first :0) Thanks again - guess I better do more reading and research on this one, but am relieved to know that for what I do, it won't impact me much (for now) C,
  20. Hi all, Most of the pottery I fire I intend to horse hair or Raku; thus I bisque fire it to cone 06. Most ceramics, or other dishes that are used to eat off of, or bisque that you buy are typically fired to cone 04. Say I accidentally fired some of my pottery that should have been fired at cone 04 at cone 06; and I had not intended on horse hairing these pieces, but rather using them for candy dishes, or ?? although they still could be sold as "decorative pieces", what is the real reason pieces are fired first at cone 04, then refired at cone 06? I know I can put these few pieces back in the kiln and fire then at cone 04; then all is good - but I am left wondering really, what are the ramifications of: 1) having under fired my piece (fired at cone 06 instead of cone 04) 2) if it is a decorative piece, not intended for food, but still glazed with cone 06 for final product - does it matter that it was accidentally fired at cone 06 for the bisque firing? Charlene
  21. Thanks everyone for the input; I was laid off about three months ago, and now am going to give my "art" the best chance I can. I am still looking for a job, but am paying more attention now to trying to learn the best I can. I appreciate that there are so many people out there that are not "perfectionist" and do not criticize for the "finger impressions". That being said, I can smooth them out a little, and I need to learn that a few mild ones are ok; Thank you for the good comments, and suggestions - a trip to the supply store is in order for a "red rib"!
  22. Thank you I went to the library today and got a book; and I am going to try working without the sponge. I can't watch the clip on the referenced page - something is wrong with my download of Adobe; have tried reinstalling it several times and it still won't work - so will have to get that looked at - thanks again
  23. Thank you, but I can't afford to buy the videos right now - but they look great!
  24. This is going to seem funny to most people...I just started adding texture to some of my slab pottery. What I am using for example is a thin piece of leather that was machine embossed. The down side is that the piece of leather doesn't have very deep impressions, but does leave enough texture to leave nice markings on my pottery. The problem is though, for example, when you attempt to do something with the slab, and have to use a sponge, (example when pushing a seam together) how do you keep the texture from being removed from using the sponge? This seems pretty basic - the only thing I can think of is that my texture isn't deep enough, but it would still get messed up by having to use a sponge to sponge over it. I was making a wall vase yesterday and the bottom side of my clay started to crack a little, I thought it was still pretty wet, but obviously to smooth those out...out went the texture! Any suggestions would be appreciated - I haven't don't much with textures! Charlene
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