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Everything posted by cstovin

  1. Hi all, I have scoured Google, and have found one or two Waterfall Brown recipes, but they were for Cone 10; does anyone have a Waterfall Brown recipe they would be willing to share that they have had good success with? (steady, etc.) Cone 6, Waterfall brown thank you C.
  2. Thank you all; I didn't necessarily mean a three ingredient glaze would be "easy", but easier in terms of only three ingredients to potentially trouble shoot, and much less to spend at first I liked the comment about cheating lol Thank you for suggesting it go on heavier, I thought the second time around two coats would be good; and I did mix it with a little less water but will try it again C.
  3. Hi all, I am just starting to try mixing my own Cone 6 glazes, and I thought I would start with an easy one. The recipe didn't really have a name, but only has 3 ingredients. 80% Alberta Slip 20% Frit 3134 4% Rutile It is SUPPOSED to be Bluish (see attachment); I have tried this twice now, actually three times, and all I get is brown.... I tried: 80% Alberta Slip 20% Frit 3134 (3431?) 4% Rulte I also tried: 80% Ravenscrag Slip 20% Frit 3134 4% Rutile after doing more research, it said for alberta slip more than 50%, to calcine the rest. Questions: I have heard that I don't have to calcine the additional amount over 50% (30% If I do, does anyone know any place that sells calcined alberta slip? Or do I need to do it myself? Thank you all for any advice -
  4. Hello, I have heard some people bisque fire to cone 04 and glaze (if their glaze is also cone 04) at the same time; I bought some Mayco elements to try, and it is Cone 06 to cone 6; but I have never used it, and DO plan on experimenting - for those that have fired and glazed at the same time, what has your experience been with this? I have glazed for example at the same time when clear glazing the inside of vases and things like that, but have never tried it using a colored glaze? Any pros and cons I need to be aware of? Is this totally a bad idea to glaze with elements glaze and fire to cone 04 with bisque firing and the glaze firing occurring at the same time?
  5. Hello, I just started making some jewelry, and I am really confused as to some information I received from the art guild downtown. What I asked was: is there anything I can do (type of clay, firing, etc) to make my pieces stronger..... I am used to slab building, and very new to jewelry; what I was told was to fire my jewelry pieces at a higher cone temp. The higher the cone temp, the "stronger" and more durable my piece. Is that true? Meaning, if I am used to firing at cone 04, if I take the same type of clay, say B-Mix and it is capable at firing up to cone 4 - instead of firing my jewelry at cone 04 and fire it at cone 4, will the piece actually be stronger than if I had fired it at cone 04? If so, why? thank you!
  6. i was just about ready to ask something along the lines of the same question - however, I fire to a hotter temp - up to cone 4; is there less expensive wire sources available for wire to withstand higher firing temps? thanks!
  7. Thank you all.... @Frederick - thank you, the reason I feel I have to tell people or educate people on which pieces can be used for food, is that usually I only have horse hair or Raku pieces in my booth; then I have customers that are intending to buy a plate or something and make a comment "it will be great to serve my salad in".... I don't feel morally I can sell something that isn't food safe to someone that thinks it is. 1) they won't be happy with my product 2) they might get sick Then when I tell them it isn't food safe, they usually put it back..... so, that is my dilemma! thanks all!
  8. yes, thank you-- I mean GLAZE, GLAZE, GLAZE....lol - thank you!! The stroke and coats are kind of thick to begin with is why I asked; they seem to kind of want to "cake" on a regular paint brush when I try to use them as is.....thank you all - I did go buy a paint gun at lunch - so will try it and see how it works!! thanks again!
  9. Hi all, I need some advice - our art center uses a spray gun (industrial spray gun ) to spray ceramic glaze on pottery; the man that does it most of the time that has the information is never there when I am and I can't get much information on how it is done - or I guess answers to the main question I have. I want to "layer" paints....but what I am wanting to know, I don't currently have a spray gun and need to go buy one at harbor freight; but I am just planning on using food safe underglazes like Mayco stroke and coats or Duncan concepts....but do you have to water the glaze down to get it out of the nozzle and to spray evenly and consistently? I don't want to copy this image - but this is kind of the effect that I want to do - layer paint, then splatter things on it..... but cann anyone give me advise on using a spray gun tool? thanks!
  10. Hi there - I am a little shy, but I have gotten over approaching people for the most part; I am female - so for the most part most of my clients are usually pretty nice to me. I usually say hello, smile, and if I am working in my friends booth - she likes to just say "hi, let me know if there is anything I can help you with, or if you have any questions...."; That seems to work for her, but still I would like to learn the more "art and technique" of selling, be more interactive, and learn to "close the sale" so to speak It isn't like I want to go out and sell a car lol, but there is an art all in its own to selling; it is a skill :0). I am friendly, I smile and say hello to everyone. Thanks for the tips - will work on them! Charlene
  11. Thank you all - all good suggestions - @Clay Lover- I do often display the before and after pot, sometimes that helps and other times they are clueless; they can't figure out the meaning even though the display is marked (what it is intended for, the before and after, etc), @Pres - I have thought of a utube video or something of the like, but haven't had the time to do one yet. Unfortunately, my presentation skills in front of a camera are lacking; much better customer service skills in person. @OffCenter - good point; @Old Lady - I do have nice signage for my booth shelves that indicate at each shelf level that they are decorative, limited food use only (as an example) limited meaning wrapped candy, etc. and that does help.... @Mark - I am making a poster board now that is more professional that has pictures on it, and although I have done this before since the beginning and it hasn't helped, I am hoping a larger version will. Usually I only have three pictures on it, a girl loving her horse, a picture of a tuft of horse hair, and a finished pot; and I did try a tuft of hair, an unfinished pot, and a finished pot.....still having the same issues....but thank you will keep trying! Mea and Celia - thank you - I DO need to get better at salesmanship; this is another topic in itself....But, how do you learn sales skills? I am not talking high pressure sales skills, and I have looked online for classes, but there are skills that definitely can be learned that make it better and easier when you know the "tricks of the trade" so to speak. I know one is to not ask open ended questions; but I have searched online for training, and without knowing what I am looking for, one could spend a lot of money in a hurry.... C.
  12. Hi all, I am still refining my display as each show passes, but it is a work in progress and is coming along nicely. I do mostly Raku and Horse Hair pottery - items that are non-functional for the most part, and items that perhaps not everyone understands. Oddly enough, some of my venues are at high ranking horse shows (thus custom horse hair work) but I am noticing a lot of people either: 1) do not know what horse hair pottery is (Raku as well) 2) are confused by it 3) don't know what to think about it I have made short 1/2 page informational blurbs to explain what each one (the horse hair and raku) are; but no one reads them I have tried making a very short pictorial "story board" of what the horse hair is, and no one reads that So - my question is - for those of you that display and sell more non-functional/art work - how do you display your work so people understand what it is, are not confused by it, and are attracted to it? Any ideas? Charlene
  13. Thanks.....can't tell you how many arguements this wheel has caused with my husband; "isn't it good enough"; "that isn't enough difference to cause an issue in my opinion..."....frustrating; guess my original question was just I was thinking that if I go to level out the bottom of the pot, that if the wheel is off on the horizobtal plane, that my pot will be lopsided.... too hard to visualize :rolleyes:src="http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif">
  14. Hi Mark - it is about a 1/16" of an inch or so; it is weird....I can slip a piece of paper under (or three) under the high end. I can get it mostly centered now, as best I can - when it seems centered, the center doesn't move, but the farther out on the clay I move my fingertips, the more I can feel the uneveness. The only way I seem successful in getting the clay open is to close my eyes and not look at it when I am opening it up; otherwise I make it go further off center, have to go by feeling.... C.
  15. Well, as mentioned above, I am sucking it up and learning to use it, it is getting easier and eventually I think it won't be too much of an issue once I get a little better. It is not centered on the horizontal plane, so I am doing the best I can. I did try to have someone that works at our local gallery that also monitors at the art center where I was taking classes arrange to come and turn on it, but she never called back and stopped by. Other than that, I have no idea who to contact to see if there is someone to come throw on it, I don't know anyone else. What I was wondering, is, if it is not true on the horizontal plane (short of the suggestions to make bats that make up the difference) if when starting to trim my bowls, vases, etc to make sure the bottoms are flat, won't they turn out lopsided? Maybe not, I am having a hard time visualizing this. C.
  16. Hi all, I still have a problem with my wheel, and after talking to someone at my art center, and with the people here, I am sure that my wheel head is bent and "not true" ever so slightly. But, since I am fairly new to wheel turning and this has been problematic, I was pretty bummed to find this out! But, after working with it, I decided I had two options, three at best: I could sell it and hope to get my money out of it and advertise it as "not true", I could give up, or I could force myself to learn to use it. It hasn't been an easy two weeks, but things are getting easier and I have managed to turn a few small pots on it, so needless to say, I am learning to use it. Buying replacement parts aren't an option for me right now, we don't have the funds. BUT - here lies my problem now.....how do you trim a foot on a pot when the wheel is not true? I have tried a few, but if the wheel is not centered, then how do I get my foot "centered"? Or am I making too much out of this? lol Thank you! Charlene
  17. Thank you, PomPots, I will get my questions together and post them.....most of the items I do now are decorative, so crazing isn't too much of a concern for me now; but I just wanted to get more information and can't find much! Will try the search terms you suggested also - C.
  18. Don't get me wrong, I know I am going to need to test and develop my own practice and process - I just don't know anything about it.....I am new to glass, (don't know anything about that either)...other than some glasses don't mix well, and all are not created equal - so I guess I know a little. I know when I slump my glass I slump it sometimes at come 015 and sometimes at cone 014; I know from the previous post now it will have to be fired hotter, but it just seems like there would be a little more starting information out there- C.
  19. I went back and looked at all the sites/information that you all suggested, but there still isn't much information about how to go about this. I am really surprised that there aren't more people trying this, or that there isn't more information about this type of pottery and the process? I tried to find a book maybe on amazon, and no luck there either What I am looking at doing is something inspiring like (www.palomapottery.com) - I don't want to copy her, but when I was thinking about wanting to add glass to my items, that was kind of the look I was imaging - not marbles, solid large pieces of glass, special glass....she does what I wanted to try - uses recycled glass - so there must be a way? I can't afford to blow up my kiln, and I just need a place to start? Any ideas or suggestions on how to get started down this road would be appreciated - Thanks! Charlene
  20. Wow....VERY interesting; your problem sounds VERY much like mine. I also broke down and called our local gallery where there are two people there that also work at the art center where I take classes, and one of them is stopping by next week to see if there is really a problem, or if this is all in my head. We did get out a measuring device of some sort, and aligned it with the wheel, and there is a SLIGHT difference in the left/right sides - but only like the width of a piece of paper to fit under, maybe slightly more.....but the thickness of a piece of paper isn't much.....so it is hard to believe it could cause that much difference in my centering. My wheel also sat in these people's garage for about 4 years; and we did plug it in to see if it worked, but I would have never noticed this until I put clay on it.... Too weird. I did try again to get a video of mine - working on it - Charlene
  21. Well, it isn't the set screw; we tightened everything up today, and it is better, but still the same problem? I did borrow a table top older wheel from a friend, and was able to get something centered on the first try on her old wheel. Granted the second attempt wasn't so good......but I have no idea what to do now....up a creek without a paddle. Granted, I am a little confused, I have seen these wheels on the internet for as little as $600; Georgies in Portland has them advertised for $980 or so...how can there be such a price difference?
  22. I live in Independence Oregon.....probably too far from either of you guys..... I paid $350 for the wheel, and had to drive 4 hours one way to get it; granted I had a nice visit with my Aunt and Uncle while I waited for them to get home to pick it up! I called Amaco, and the other thing they suggested was to check the "Set" screw that holds the whole assembly together? I looked at the user manual, and can't see where that is? Anyone have any guidance? She said to make sure it is tight. If it isn't tight - she said that is most likely my problem, if it is tight - then it is the wheel head is bent. C.
  23. I just went downstairs to try to do maybe a short video, but you can't really see what I am talking about. The whole stand however kind of starts to wobble slightly. My issue when I looked at it, I didn't turn it on all the way :0( But, I did notice before I turned it on, I measured the distance between the top edge of the wheel to the top of edge of the stand on the left side and the right side, and there is about 1/16" of a difference between the two. I know my husband means well, he doesn't think this is a big deal; however learning to center, this seems impossible! Now that I know there is a difference in height between the two sides of the wheel, I would suspect that it is definately bent..... I did look up wheel assembly replacements, and they run about $180 which includes the wheel, bearing and shaft? But, could have bought a new one for that.....ugh... Charlene
  24. I just looked on the Amaco site, it doesn't say what new heads run - do you have any idea what new heads cost IF that is the problem?
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