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Posts posted by eoteceramics

  1. Hi everyone, thanks for you're replies and help, I dont know how to reply individually 

    I guess I have a few tests to do ahead of me ! 

    Just to be clear, the plan was to bisque the stoneware at the correct temp , then glaze fire with my glazes at the correct temperature which would be 1060.

    Unfortunately  no there isn't a similar stoneware glaze available. 

    Thanks Callie, I think I'll ask my supplier if they have an earthenware clay that would be suitable for food use then I can use my glazes.

  2. 17 hours ago, Benzine said:

    So, when you go to cut and remove it, from the bat, that's where you are having the issue(s)?

    When are you wiring it? (Right after throwing, after it has set up for several hours to a day or two, etc)

    What kind of bat, are you throwing on? (Plastic, plaster, masonite, etc)

    What exact issues, have you run in to, with the way you have done it before? (It ends up being too thin, it leaves uneven marks, etc)

    Also, do you trim any excess off the bottom, with a wood knife, turning tool, etc, right after throwing?


    Personally, I use Wonderbats, which do well at absorbing water, and will allow the wares to "pop" off, once they have set enough.  I have found them to be a bit drier than I like for handle attachment, if I do this, so I tend to wire them, once I am done throwing.  I don't try and move them, it just allows them to release easily, once they have dried a little, but no so much, that I have issues with the handles. 

    I've not done many large platters, but I have read, that people have had issues, if they let them dry too much, on the bat, before wiring, due to the large surface area, that is contracting against the bat. 

    Also: If you are turning/ trimming the bottom, make sure to flip it, using another large bat, set on the rim, before inverting.  Plates and platters, have such a large open rim, they tend to distort, when inverted, compared to narrower forms.

    Im using wooden bats, hand made

    I actually think Im making the base a bit thin. I  do trim with a wooden knife but havent tried the needle tool trick. I wire offf after throwing and then again after it is leather hard. the problem is the wire is cutting into the clay when I pull it through, cant seem to cut flat against the bat. There is lots of great advice here so Im going to try and source a different bat and try some of the other tips. Thanks, Julia

  3. 14 hours ago, Benzine said:

    I also use a needle, before wiring, and advise my students, to do the same.  The students that cut the bottoms off their projects, do so, because they either made the bottoms too thin, or did not trim/ undercut the bottom, before wiring.

    Instead of a cheap paper towel, what about using newspaper on the bat?  It is also quite absorbent, which is why crumpling it up, and stuffing inside of wet shoes, is a great way to dry them!

    Thanks for all your help, and the tip for wet shoes!

    Im going to take on board all the info here, i wont be defeated !

  4. 16 hours ago, CactusPots said:

    What kind of bats are you using?  Large base pots will eventually release from my hyracal bats, but I usually cut them, then let them go to leather hard before flipping them onto another bat.  If for some reason the wire isn't a workable approach, I would think a plaster bat would be the trick.  It would be a specialty bat, as it would be fragile, but you'd have to have water absorbed to get the platter to release without the wire. 

    Hi, Im using  wooden bats. No problem with everything else just large platters. i cut after throwing then let them go leather hard, the problem with the wire is its not staying flat against the bat and is cutting into the clay. Im going to try and source some items mentioned in this forum.  Thanks for your help.

  5. 9 hours ago, Magnolia Mud Research said:

    I use either a canvas bat, tarpaper bat, or a cardboard bat (aka a soft bat) between the platter and the solid bat sitting on the wheel head.  These thin soft bats are attached to the solid bat with some slip.  When the rims of the platter have stiffened, I run a wire tool between the soft bat and the solid bat and either slide the platter off onto a drying rack, or flip the platter over onto a drying rack.  When the platter is leather hard, I peal the soft bat off.  Learned this technique from Fred Olsen at a workshop years ago.  Canvas/tarpaper bats are discussed in the textbook by Vince Pitelka. 


    Thanks for that Im going to try and source some of these items and give this a go.

  6. 18 hours ago, Min said:

    Hi Julia,

    Okay, so it's not too much deflocculant but not any at all that is the problem. There is just too much water in your slip. Casting slips contain far less water than a slip made with just clay and water and yet look just as fluid.

    There is an article about using your claybody and turning it into a casting slip here, and a short explanation of mixing casting slips here. For red earthenware I would suggest using Darvan 811. It's easy to add too much deflocc so you need to be able to accurately measure the deflocc and slip as you find the right amount to use. (Some pugged claybodies don't work well as casting slips as there can be too much bentonite in them which causes them to cast too slowly.)

    Min thanks so much for the information. Ill have a look at those links and hopefully get it sorted. Cant wait to get started!


  7. Hey Johnny,

    Im fairly sure the moulds were dry as they had been sitting in a shed for a few years, it seemed fairly waterproof. Ive looked up the mould thing and found that its overuse of sodium silicate seeped into the capillaries of the mold. This doesnt explain why the slip wasnt drying, it still isnt two days later!

    I might try cleaning with bleach then drying off in the oven.

    Cheers , Julia

  8. Hi All,

    First time slip casting .

    Ive mixed my own smooth earthenware slip to a creamy consistency and poured. I expected to leave for about an hour before removing the moulds, however after leaving overnight they are still too soft. Also there is a white mold growing on the plaster mould!. Could it be that they are too damp, I did have to clean with a damp sponge .

    thanks so much Julia



  9. On 5/15/2018 at 3:17 AM, LeeU said:

    Steven Branfman's Mastering Raku is a comprehensive wealth of information if you really want to get into it. He generally bisques at ^08 (explains in the book) and uses a commercial raku body...Sheffield has a nice one.

    thank you I have his book and am making my way through it, very informative


  10. On 5/11/2018 at 8:58 PM, Denice said:

    Why do you want to use a stoneware clay in a Raku firing?  Using a low fire clay will make your piece stronger,  stoneware will be extremely fragile at that temperature.   Denice

    Thanks Denice, first time doing this so learning fast. Im planning on adding silica sand to my earthenware clay , does that sound like the right thing to do?

  11. Hi all,

    Im very excited to be making a raku kiln, now I'm new to this method so will be firing some raku Q's at you all.

    Be prepared for some daft ones!

    • first up, Is there an ideal temperature to fire a stoneware clay to bisque if wanting to do a raku glaze firirng?
    • Has anyone a glaze recipe for a beautiful blue or green, or is there a good resource for raku recipes somewhere?

    Thats it for now, be warned I may be back!




  12. Wow 

    thanks dh Potter, Denice & Pres,


    some brilliant suggestions that I simply wouldn't have thought of. 

    Denice, I have an electric front loader and its always damp here in the west coast of Ireland, so much so my kiln is starting to rust in my current studio.

    Oiled tops, brilliant Ive always used canvas but yes so dusty!

    Thanks so much this has really helped, as always 


  13. I am fortunate to be getting a brand new studio, lucky me!

    its 32ft x 16ft and will be an empty shell.

    Im looking for peoples recomendations for setting up an ideal studio setup,  ie where to put things, dry /wet area.

    Ill be holding workshops in it during the summer as well as making my own work.

    Im looking also for the best way to incorporate a drying area.


    Thanks so much Julia

  14. Hi all,


    I had a problem with slabs, not too thick , cracking and exploding. From posting in this forum on another thread i realized that my firing schedule was too fast. I need to drive off any moisture in the slabs.

    I have a Nabertherm B130 controller which has 4 ramps and two temp ramps.

    Im looking for recommendation for a firing schedule, that will drive off moisture. I can candle but then i cant bisque fire in same schedule as there isnt enough temp ramps.

    Any help very much welcome.

    thanks  Julia


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