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About dhPotter

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Duck Hill, MS
  • Interests
    Deer and Turkey hunting(we eat deer through out the year), Cooking(I am the cook), Football(watching), Observing Nature

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  1. Hello DHPotter-

    I keep running into the image of your two yellow and red mugs from your post in 2017 on using strontium crystal magic.  The colors are striking and the description on how you get/got them is very helpful.  

    I am trying to get similar colors using what I think are the same glazes and not getting anywhere close.   I'm wondering if you have any ideas for me.    I'm getting my recipes from the John Britt's book on mid-range glazes,  and I am using the Steven Hill firing cycle that Britt has in the book.  

    SCMW is coming out a kind of bumpy variegated tan.  Red-orange on top yields a variegated tan biege  which running off the pot a bit.  If I go with a thinner coat of SCMW  then I'm getting a kind of toasty variegated semi-matt orange-brown   --not bad, but nothing like the red on your mugs!  

    My clay is either a buff stoneware or a white stoneware.   Neither has as much flux as porcelain, so I'm wondering if I should maybe flux the SCMW a bit more to compensate.   I noticed that you've added 8% silica to your red-orange.   Did you find that helped your red red to come out better?   Also, you mentioned a thin overspray of Jen's.  Do you do that on top of red-orange and does that help it come out better too?   AS I'm typing this I'm realizing these are things I can just try instead of asking you.  I think I'm just a bit discouraged.  I've been trying lots of things from Britt's book and mostly getting nowhere close  to the results I see in the photos.  

    As for the yellow:  Let's just say that my Hanna's fake ask is nothing like yours.   It's a kind of golden brown by itself and a variegated beige over the SCM.   I have not had much luck getting a strong yellow using any of Britt's yellow recipes either, so anything you can tell me about how you got that amazing yellow would be much appreciated.  

    Thanks in advance for any time you can spare on these questions.




    Jeremy Skinner



    1. dhPotter


      Hey Jeremy,

      In John Britt's ^6 book the recipe on page 148 is not what I'm using. Page 176 is closer to what I'm using. My recipe is straight from the horse's mouth - I took a workshop with Steven Hill 2 years ago. My Red Orange has 9.00 red iron oxide instead of 11.5 the book has. 


      Custer Feldspar.............    46.00  
        Calcium Carbonate...........    17.20  
        EP Kaolin...................    15.00  
        Strontium Carbonate.........    12.60  
        Ferro Frit 3124.............     4.60  
        Lithium Carbonate...........     4.60  
        Titanium Dioxide............    12.00  
        Yellow Iron Oxide...........     2.50  
        Bentonite...................     2.00  

      Hannah's Fake Ash Iron - The book is way different - this is from the workshop.

        Redart......................    56.10  
        Calcium Carbonate...........    29.00  
        Strontium Carbonate.........    10.10  
        Ferro Frit 3195.............     4.80  
        Iron Oxide Red..............     3.30  
        Yellow Iron Oxide...........     2.80  
        Bentonite...................     1.00  

      My firing schedule - slightly different than the book's. No hold at 1700 - I tried it but got what you are getting - bumpy, scratchy surface. The slow climb from 2050 up to temp and the hold at 100 degrees less than top temp is for healing pinholes. It works.

      Segment        Rate F*/HR    Temp    Hold
         1            200         220     30-60
         2            100         500      0
         3            400        2050      0
         4            108        2185^     15
         5           9999        2085     20
         6           9999        1700      0
         7             50        1600     60
         8             50        1500      0

      My clay is a white stoneware, Laguna 609.

      Rules for Hannah's Fake Ash Iron - do not allow any glaze under or over this glaze. However, I can't help but get a little overspray onto the fake ash iron. Do not put on thick - it will blister badly. Seems a light application is better - and that goes for SH Copper Ash also. The fake ash Iron is a tan color when done correctly. I don't care for the Fake Ash Blue - it blisters no matter how it is applied.

      I apply SCMW and C lightly also. Then spray the red orange till I get the chunky velvet look. I spray a light coating of JuicyFruit, about 2-3 turns of the banding wheel and spray on the upper third of the pot. I found glazes with SCMW and C are scratchy without the JuicyFruit. It tends to make the glaze feel soft. 

      In the pic I remembered spraying the Red Orange on lightly to get the yellowish that appears in the vertical lines between the red blotches. I just sprayed SCMW in the vertical lines only - very tight application area.

      The 8% added silica was for a Red Orange liner, but I don't use it as a liner anymore.  

      This order of application is Steven Hill's - Pour liner first and let dry overnight. Spray the SCMW or C on first. Then spray the ash glaze. Then spray any other glazes. Don't be afraid to wipe a glaze off with a damp sponge - even on greenware. Sometimes I want a different color foot. After all other spraying is complete then will wipe down the foot area and apply the different color glaze to the foot only. But if it is white I want on the foot it will be the first glaze applied - My white plays well with colored glazes lightly sprayed over it.

      Have you tried Bailey's Red 2 over SCMW? This glaze lights up more yellowish. The glaze is on Pg 88. I use tricalcium phosphate instead of bone ash.

      Hope I have answered all of your questions. Good luck,


    2. Jeremy Skinner

      Jeremy Skinner

      Wow.  I appreciate all the time and thought in your reply.  You've given me a lot to investigate.  I'll post an update at some point soon.  Thanks again!

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