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Everything posted by Isculpt

  1. From the album: Sculpture

    Sculpted while grieving, the roses represented the hope that someday that grief would be replaced by good memories
  2. One alternative to indented letters is a beautiful solution by Diesel Clay. When I asked how he achieved such impressive lettering, he generously provided this response: "Because i was making so many of those mugs, I went to a sign shop that has a plotter and had them cut me a stencil of the phrase out of Mylar. Then I took clay body slip and pushed it through the back side of the stencil onto strips of newsprint. Let the letters set up a minute or two, and then apply the strip to the soft leather hard pot. Don't remove the paper until the letters are fully set up. Best to leave it on un
  3. I use metal lettering stamps produced by Chip Art for the scrapbooking industry. They come in a variety of typefaces, sizes, and upper and lower case letters. After I stamp into the slightly leatherhard clay, I bisque the piece and then apply a wash of underglaze (or for a slightly metallic look, I use the copper color of Mayco's "Stoneware Wash"). I apply either underglaze or Mayco glaze diluted 1:1 with water to keep it from dyeing the surface of the piece too much. I then scrub it off with a generously wetted sponge, which leaves the color in the crevices formed by the letters. Be
  4. Thanks for the insights. Sounds like I'm gonna want both! Jayne
  5. I've just purchased a used extruder, although I'm not sure to what use I will put it! At the moment, Amazon books is offering 30% off of any one book and I'm trying to choose an extruder book. I see "The Extruder Book" by Daryl Baird 2012 "Ceramic Extruding: Inspiration and Technique" by Tom & Jean Latka "Extruded Ceramics - Techniques* Projects* Inspirations* by Diana Pancioli from Lark Books Any suggestion appreciated.... Jayne
  6. I'm impressed by the lettering!! How do you do that??
  7. No one has responded to the question of whether one has to be a licensed or registered business to get and use a Square card reader. No, you do not. Go to Square.com, sign up, provide a checking account number so they can automatically deposit the funds (less their commission) in your account, and they will send a free card reader. Voila! You're ready to take credit cards. You are supposed to collect the appropriate sales tax for the site where the sale is made, so even if you live in South Carolina, for example, if you do a craft show in North Carolina you will need to get a tax number from t
  8. Leeu, thanks for sharing your story. It's a powerful reminder that it is easy to get stuck in a negative place filled with a soundtrack of all the reasons we CAN'T do something and all the ways that life has cheated us. Alternatively we can make a determined effort to focus on the positive (ten fingers and toes is as good a place to start as any!) and to recognize that most of us have the power to create the life we want. Making art is such a joy that we naturally want the world to adapt to us so that we can keep doing it, but it just doesn't work that way. Like it or not, for most people to
  9. Mark, the sculptures did warp while drying, but I sanded the bottoms before bisquing until everything was perfect. Then they came out of the kiln a mess! I found that you're right about cone 5 -- it is a pain to sand, although I had some successes. Thanks MMB for the mention of the Diamond blades. I purchased my angle grinder from Harbor Freight - a favorite fun store where I find all kinds of great things for the studio. Big Lou, it's possible that I'm not drying the work slowly enough. I do dry them on a rack and I candle them for a long time (8-12 hours) before using the slow bi
  10. Thanks, Mark. This is High water Raku clay fired to cone 5 (it has a firing range of 06-6). Today I bought some expensive "ceramic sanding belts“ which are supposed to be stronger and last longer. The"ceramic" has nothing to do with ceramics as we know it, just a stronger product. I've looked at local hardware stores and Michaels Crafts for those clear rubber bumpers but finally found them at Hobby Lobby. Maybe between 40 grit paper and bumpers, I'll make it to the show! Any guesses as to why the work is suddenly warping? It has warped as low as cone 1 this time out. Jayne
  11. For reasons I don't understand, most of the 40 sculptures I've made in the past few months (that are headed for a craft show in less than a week!!) are warped. I'll worry about the "why" later, but right now I need to figure out "how" to sand the bottoms to take out the slight warpage. I have a belt sander that I can flip upside down; will that do the job with 80 grit belts? Or is my booth gonna be full of rockin' sculptures??? Jayne
  12. Good point, Chris. You may have just saved me from having to pay for someone's priceless antique.
  13. Thank you both. Beth, now I understand the 'why' of the seemingly arbitrary "fire to 04 bisque". I was going to fire the 05 glaze along with a bisque load with no consideration of the effect of organic matter burning out, so your tip regarding that got my attention. Chris, next time I will fire inside and out at the same time! Can water-tightness be achieved simply by firing to vitrification or is a glaze required? Or does that vary according to clay used? Is there a rule of thumb that refiring glazed work to a lower temperature is less likely to have drastic effect on the existing glaze t
  14. I've read on CAD of potters firing their clay to mid-range maturity, and then applying a low-firing glaze and firing again. My raku clay has a firing range of cone 2-6, so I bisqued my sculpture to cone 05, then fired to cone 5 with Potter's Choice cone 5 glaze applied. Now I want to glaze the interior of the sculpture with another lower-firing glaze, but I've noticed that all the low-firing 05 glazes I have on hand have the following instructions: "Apply to matured cone 04 bisque". What do they mean by "matured 04 bisque"? Can I not apply them to a clay that has been fired higher tha
  15. Thank you, Wyndham. I took a one-day workshop on Potter's Choice glazes, but no one mentioned different firing schedules! I will check with them, and that's a great idea about putting test tiles in with each firing. It never would have occurred to me to constantly test the same glazes! Jayne
  16. I use underglazes on my sculptures, and I have no experience with glazes so this is a total newbie question. I bought some Potters Choice glazes and combined the colors as suggested in the catalog (i.e. two coats of one color followed by two coats of another). I made test tiles, fired to cone 5, and loved the colors and reduction effects the glazes produced. But I've just glazed some sculptures and the colors are noticeably different from the test tiles. I can live with the colors, but it made me wonder: Can you apply glaze over a fired glaze? If so, what happens to the original glaze coa
  17. Thanks for the E6000 suggestion. Clear would definitely work better for this purpose. Is it available at hardware stores or is it a specialty item?
  18. Thanks, both of you. I was afraid I'd be told that NOTHING would adhere glazed surface to glazed surface. I'm surprised and happy to hear otherwise! Jayne
  19. I have seen several glues recommended here, but always for gluing a broken handle on, or something that doesn't involve a sealed, glazed surface. I'd like to glue some crushed gemstone onto a glazed surface. Is there a glue that will attach something to a glazed surface? Jayne
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