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About INYA

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  • Birthday 04/01/1975

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    Slovenia, Europe

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  1. hmm this forum gets more and more interesting! keeping my fingers crossed for all of you (who hijacked this post ) anyway- can I mix my own wax - for lids and bottom? commercial products are a little expensive around here thanks!
  2. I did not know you were useing reductor... there is no reductor on my burner happy for you
  3. That is really sad to hear! What was the temperature outside? I think I wrote before that my firing was depending on that very much. I could never imagined that for example 20 C difference (in outside temp) makes such a huge difference in firing. For example at summer evening (cca 17C I think) I could not get it over 1000-1100C The problem is that every little thing makes a big difference. I noticed that when something blocked the progress it was time to make changes. I am trying to say that when you saw that you are not getting above 600 C it would be better to stop and not waste any more gas. as marcia wrote: see if you get a pull of a draft with a lit newspaper torch by your burner port. This is important since you are using a natural draft and no forced air.<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, verdana, tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 12.727272033691406px; line-height: 19.09090805053711px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252);"> have you tried that? My kiln is much simpler (and it fired to 1250 C at least 30 times, but it was summer), the air just has to go up and not around... the newspaper torch could tell you if you have enough air. The chimney is not a good idea in my opinion. Before you quit.. maybe try a hole on the upper side of the barrel (in the metal). The thing is small and the temperature will be high enough everywhere. OH another thing- you might not have enough insulation or the shelf is positioned to low (it could suppress the fire). I am having more room under. Maybe it is just a combination of all those reasons. I would try different solutions: - first the newspaper torch (if that is ok then ...) - firing in a warmer room or a warm day (this will tell you about the insulation) - then the upper hole
  4. I think there is no inkjet that will fire true color (except those with special toners - quite expensive) , cost from 3000 euros (chinese) and cca from 5000 euros (german) Decal paper + some laser printers (some HP are proven, but maybe there are some others with iron oxide in the toner)- will fire sepia - see my picture if you need any other info, just ask
  5. ok here are pictures... measurements: 65x65 cm x 50 cm height + the lid insulation 16 cm wall, upper hole 10 x 10 cm, the same hole for the burner It really did quite a good job, I was firing with two shelves and about the same element for measuring temp you have BUT I got tired of sitting by the side every time... and now it is all alone in the garage
  6. I will take a picture of my kiln later today or tomorow... and I will measure it so you can see My upper hole is way bigger! and my burner hole also. But I will send you measurments and you can adapt them to your size. I am not sure what was the problem in colder season- the tank was almost freezing, it just did not reach high temp- as I remember I could not get it above 1050 C. Hey thank Neil for explanation, never heard about The Pushmi-pullyu!
  7. I watched Simon`s videoa again- my kiln is much bigger (two or three times bigger- I fired with 3 shelves) anyway I hardly use it now, I switched to electric- mainly due to its BIG dependance on high temperature in the air. I could fire succesfully only from April to Oktober and not after 9 pm (it was just not warm enough)
  8. I have very very similar kiln (it is vertical, not horizontal and without the drum- constructed only from wires, actualy fence material- wire forming little squares. Mb burner is at the bottom and the hole is on top) I had the same problem but I was stupid enough to reduce its size (was very sorry later)- the point is that the burner has to be outside and there has to be another hole ( I do not see it from your pics ) which has to be big enough. You will need to introduce LOT of air, in reduction your temp will not rise normally. * I just saw you do not understand reduction- it is firing without enough oxigen, the flames that go out of the kiln are blueish, not orange. It is one of big advantages of gas kilns but they are more popular at the end of firing, not in the middle- you can get many interesting colors, glaze efects etc. we are talking reducing versus oxidizing athmosfere in the kiln. So I reduced the size and nothing happened ;( I even bought bigger burner and that did not help either and then I doubled the size of the upper hole I got to 1250 Celsium easily (if I wanted I could get there in about 4 hours I am sure you have the same problem = not enough oxigen. Consider making your exit hole bigger- but plan some kind of lid in case you will need reducing athmosfere in the future hope this helps a bit greetings from slovenia
  9. O the wheel is such a great idea! I love it, you just roll it over the bucket... I should have seen this a year ago, now I have 25-30 moulds and all different sizes maybe I will make the wheels just for 10 the biggest, I have about 10 pieces which are really xxl size
  10. Thanks for really great idea! And I love your avatar John255
  11. 1. Diane Ferreira suggested (thay fire like that all the time): this is all celsius, not F: 100 C/h until 200 C 200 C/h until 1250 C hold 5 minutes 2. I got another suggesstion: 120 C until 1190 C 65 C/h until 815 C (this is slow cooling) 3. I do it mostly like that (and I got fairly good results but I have nontranslucent and quite stable body and thin and thick casts): 170 C/h until 1100 50 C/h until the end hold 15 min but there is nothing but trying
  12. I am a neewbie, so it is commercially mixed, cone 6
  13. Hi, I have a problem with transparent glaze which needs quite thin application. I was testing it (dipping) on unfired pieces and it turned ok. They accepted exactly right amount of glaze, just perfect, eved overdips evened out great, no blisters, no pinholes, no problems at all. Then for "the real pieces" I tried dipping the bisque pieces and it did not work. The bisque pieces accepted too much glaze, I had to wash them and pour only the inside (it is easier to control the thickness I think) then I sprayed the outside. Even slightly wet pieces (from washing) accepted to much glaze. I also tried diluting the glaze a little, which did not help much... Pieces came out partially ok, about 30% ok, others had too much glaze. Just for the record I am not counting to 5, I pour the glaze inside the cup and immediatelly pour it out. I am talking cups, jars and teapots here. My question is should I dilute the glaze even more? I would LOVE to dip, but the pieces are to fragile to go unbisque, and I am worried to ruin the underglaze... it is so so time consuming to do both (dip inside and spray outside) I was watching youtube (Simon Leach glazing teapots) and drooling What can I do, any suggestions? thanks in advance!
  14. We are using Modelling plaster (Modellgips) from a big construction material supplier - Rigips, you could check in big stores with constuction material. It is quite ok, not grainy and cures in half an hour. Picks up the details fine and it is ok for hand pouring (not sure about the machine). Costs around 4,5 usd/ 5kg. Small bags are great to carry around (I have a weak back) and you dont worry about plaster going bad, + you can buy exactly as much as you need. But anyway, plaster should not go bad in one year! We are working with plaster (for other things) for 10 years now and none has gone bad. But there were one or two bags which were bad from the beginning.
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