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  1. I'm not sure what your overall vision of this work would be but this is what I know. I'd expect it to be tricky to apply laser decals to greenware, to waterslide it into position and get it to stay there - it is tricky but do-able. When you fire it to bisque - there's no glaze on your work yet for the iron oxide to melt into, I'd anticipate the laser print would remain powdery and unfused therefore easily marred on handling. if you get that far and elect to pain in underglaze colours in gaps in the image - that'll be challenging to handle and to avoid disturbing the powdery print on the work with your brush and liquid underglaze. I assume you don't intend to glaze the work at all as if you attempt to glaze over a laser decal image it will almost entirely disappear as there is so scant an amount of iron oxide present in the image. Think of how much ink/toner there is when you print it on printer paper - barely anything, not enough to show through glaze ingredients once its fired. My suggestion is you compromise and select the area on the greenware where you print will go, and paint a patch of underglaze colour there, three coats usually gets good density of colour. Then fire and glaze as usual, then apply your deal over the coloured area. Alternatively - the Pebeo Porcelaine paints for on glaze but very low temp firing are a good choice.
  2. I'm on an IMac and use an app called ResizIt. Easy to use. Pretty sure it was free.
  3. http://www.keraflex.us or lthe Keraflex facebook page https://www.facebook.com/keraflex
  4. http://www.cpaceramics.co.uk/gallery_detail.php?member_id=110 Sorry if this comes thru twice. The link explains she uses slips not underglazes. I am guessing that dark slip and some paper resist motifs to form her patterns underneath the transparent coloured earthenware glazes are what make her work look so good - oh and of course - skill! She also does a lot of silkscreening on paper - which to me seems to fit her style of decoration.
  5. Do you mean decal paper or do you mean another image transfer method? If you mean the kind of decal paper that you can print on using a black and white laser printer (assuming it has iron oxide in the toner) then you can go online to Bel Decal in the USA and order laser decal paper (clear). They do a minimum of 25 sheets. I buy from them often. Google Frank Gaydos on the subject first - he wrote a good summary on how that system works. They usually go onto fired glazed ware. If you mean the kind of decal paper on which you screenprint with china paint and make proper 'decals' with, using Over Print Laquer (OPL) I am certain many places in USA carry it. Or try Scarva pottery supplies in Northern Ireland. I know Northcote Pottery in Australia sell that in small quantities. You can also print or draw with underglaze onto tissue paper from art shops or used to wrap items in fancy gift shops, and transfer that to leatherhard clay. Elaine Bradley lalab@iinet.net.au
  6. I make hanging or standing forms like these from slabs, but only up to about 20cm (8" to some) at most. I use from slabs of 2-5 mm thickness depending on the clay used. Why not make a solid model and make a simple press mould from it, go from there.
  7. Johanna's reply is exactly right. The only thing I'd add is not to bother looking at Brother printers - a rep from that company tells me they definitely do not use iron oxide in their printers.
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