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yedrow

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Everything posted by yedrow

  1. Thank you! That graph alone helped a lot. Joel.
  2. Ditto to what Neil and TJR said. Also, you might try coning the clay up pretty high and then down a few times, this helps organize the particles in the middle and against the bat. As a rule, cracks on greenware begin fairly early on in the process. Joel.
  3. One thing I've started doing is taking a pic of a piece that I'm doing something extra too (verses production ware), and numbering it, and then jotting that number in my notebook along with relevant data. Later I can transfer the pic from my phone to my computer. Joel.
  4. yedrow

    Teapots drying

    From what I can see of your handles, it looks like you have good control. Joel.
  5. Nice bowls. I love it when people take the motion of the wheel and incorporate it into the work. Joel.
  6. yedrow

    IMG_1027.JPG

    I dig those fish man.
  7. From what I've seen of used wheels out there, the Brent is the likely quality wheel to find. I don't know about the one you spoke of, but in general I've seen more Brents than any other brand, and they make a good wheel. For me, I prefer the Soldner. I think the most important part of a wheel is the pedal. Joel.
  8. I've laid a box fan across the top, spaced with a couple of 2x4s. Joel.
  9. I don't think the changes in ph are very big. Just remember that you can get a glaze wetter by adding water, but that the bisque has to hold that water. A properly flocculated glaze will help you avoid using too much water. Then, watch Brit's video. He explains it well. Joel.
  10. There is no questioning the rockage of Advancers! Joel.
  11. I've been using hardiboard for the top of my table for the last few months. It isn't plaster, but it works pretty good. Joel.
  12. The problem with weighing the glaze is the difficulty in accounting for the meniscus (Meniscus Wiki). If you could do 1000g accurately then the larger volume would absorb the few grams margin of error and be only a small percentage of it. However, with 100g, the percentage of error can be pretty high. You can order a 250ml glass cylinder from Amazon for a few bucks. With that you only have to take out a little glaze and you can use your hydrometer. You only need little over 200ml to do it. If the glaze is particularly viscous just tap the side until the hydrometer quits sinking. Your results should be fairly reproducible. Joel.
  13. Some red clays (like Lizella) do look great in electric firings but so do whites. Whites usually look better in electric firing than they do in reduction firing because they are brighter and whiter than the grayish white you usually get in reduction. Also, since you plan to write on your pots, white would be the better choice. Jim It seems to me that when newer potters use white clay their work suffers. I may well be wrong. I don't particularly care for white clays in general, reduction or oxydation, but some glazes do look better on them. I guess its that point where the glaze and the clay meet that bothers me. The starkness makes the foot stand out and is distracting. I try to make the bottom parts of my work blend into or yield to the surface upon which they rest. It's hard to blend white into wood. You've been doing this a lot longer than I, however, so you are likely drawing on experiences I don't posses. Joel.
  14. Don't break them, put 'em in your garden. And if you do break them, put 'em in your garden anyway! Oh, and I think that when it comes to electric kiln fired pottery, red clays look better than white clays (if you haven't bought any yet). Joel.
  15. I always take mine to the first line and drop it from there. If the glaze is too viscous I tap the side of the container until it quits moving. There is no perfect studio way to accurately measure the sg/viscosity of a glaze, so don't be real freaky about it (like I did). Once you get comfortable with a glaze you can probably get close enough just eyeballing it by dipping your fingers in and letting it move on your hand. Joel.
  16. I don't believe that Higgs Boson's occupy the proper eigenstates for that application. Perhaps shunting in a tachyon accelerator in parallel with a flux capacitor might work better. Joel.
  17. I think I'm going to do exactly that Mark. I'm going to put a breaker inline and hardwire the thing so I can throw a switch instead of unplugging it. Joel.
  18. Last month I had a similar problem. I had a fuse blow, a relay go bad, and a blade on the female plug burn up. All three caused the same problem. You may want to check if you are getting current to the right place. It's possible you didn't get the elements wired well and you are looking at a new problem that looks exactly like the old problem. Also, you may want to look at the plug and see if it's gotten hot. The screws that hold the wires in can work their way out and create resistance that increases heat that burns away material that increases resistance that creates more heat, and so on. I would first turn the kiln on while it is empty and watch through the spy holes to see if the elements get red, or touch the energized elements with some tissue to see if it burns. Joel.
  19. Thanks Marcia, that is exactly what I needed to know! Thank you both for the help. I think this is coming together. I've just red an article by Sohngen and revisited Ron Roy and I think I have a grasp of this now. I'll put it in another post and feel free to tell me where I'm getting it wrong. Joel.
  20. Is there a cut and dry definition of COE? My Insight glaze calc gives a number. I understand that to be something like, for example, 7.25 x 10 -6, but the number given is simply 7.25. Does that number come from the percentage of expansion divided by the temperature change, or something to that effect? If not, can anyone tell me where it comes from? Other glaze calcs seem to have a different number, but I'm guessing that the zeros are just changed. Joel.
  21. And therein lie the risks of layering glazes on functional pottery. Joel.
  22. Marcia, You know, I didn't think about salt or ash from wood fired kilns when I wrote that. Intuitively though I would think that the clay-glaze interface is still represented as stoneware in those cases. Joel.
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