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  2. Seattle Pottery Supply, Walker Ceramics ...and Shimpo have teal banding wheels linked to their sites. See catalog page ("Literature" tab) linked here BW-25L - NIDEC-SHIMPO CERAMICS for five models in teal, hrm, that's with Europe selected; toggle the flag to "US" - the colour morphs to blue.
  3. Speaking from experience (more than one time) leaving the platter on the mold, whether plaster or bisque, can be a problem. The piece can crack. Roberta
  4. Today
  5. Thanks, there is! I bought my kiln from Neil a few years back (which I highly recommend, for anyone in the market), and part of his excellent advice was to go wide instead of deep -- easier on the back.
  6. Thank you all. Neil is (unsurprisingly) right -- my plan leaves me with a shallow bowl, not a platter, which I arrived at in order to try to solve some problems, but which has its own problems, and in any case is not really what I want. So back to the drawing board. I am pretty attached to the hump mold part of the plan, which has two big problems: 1) I want the platter to be able to dry at least to leather hard on the mold, so it doesn't deform. But it will shrink, and the mold won't. I'm thinking I might be able to finesse this by making the mold support just the flat part of the p
  7. 22 inches might be ok for your slab roller, what about putting it into the kiln? is there room for your fingers to lower it into a top loader if that is what you have?
  8. You know I was just looking at banding wheels (well pretty much all pottery tools in general, because ALL of mine were stolen in a move) and I saw THAT banding wheel presented as a Shimpo. In that teal green color. But I can't find it again and all the places I USUALLY buy my tools at are indeed carrying a sort of royal blue as the Shimpo. That's going to bug me ... they're not even close to being confusable.
  9. Shimpo banding wheels are a very distinctive shade of blue, like a Royal Blue or Reflex Blue. Not teal or green. Are you sure this is a genuine Shimpo?
  10. @poppyandlily I do not know the source of the recipe actually other than something pulled from Glazy last year. At least I don’t recognize this by composition or colorant as something we have used. You could try and DM @Michael Dsee if he remembers. We have an old video (not the greatest) that does some intro Stull stuff, but it was centered around real basic Stull and the free Katz spreadsheet which we got his permission to modify and redistribute. The mods were a bit for ease of use, color research, etc….. of the original sheet.
  11. Hi Bill, Can you tell me the source of this video? I’m curious about the glaze group he speaks of. thanks!
  12. I can relate to that, due to age and body issues & doing less production (which for me was not much in the first place/small hobby biz). However, gotta say that to obtain it as you have described sounds like a royal PITA--would it be worth it? As far as the QotW, I have everything I need or want, other than someone to do my reclaim/wedging for me!
  13. Polyester/lycra material is great for a slump mold, I usually use a square wooden box even for a round one when I make them. Let them get slightly leather hard then add in the foot rings. finish on the wheel. I also use a large plaster bat that I made years ago. I often will join a thrown foot ring onto the slab, after I have thrown on foot rings. Works well for a bird bath or for serving platters/fruit bowls. best, Pres
  14. Yesterday
  15. Thrift shop woks are great for slump and humps, handles removed. Great glazing vessels also. Thicker clay. Hump allows the footring to be added at right time. As in another post, may have to accentvthe curve toget wshat you want after glazing
  16. A thrown platter would be relatively flat, with just the lip curving upward. The foot sits at the junction of the lip and flat part. On a really wide platter a second foot ring is often added closer to the middle to prevent the center from sagging. With this design the diameter of the platter doesn't matter. 10", 20", 30", the bulk of the piece is supported by the foot ring(s), and the size/overhang of the lip doesn't increase all that much as the diameter increases. What you have there I would call a shallow bowl, as it is curved across the entire form. Even in a thrown piece something that w
  17. Shimpo banding wheels are considered to be the best available, and worth every dime. This is not normal. @Jamie o clayThis is unusual. I would call Shimpo. Perhaps they had a bad batch. Are you doing anything unusual on the wheel like using a torch or solvents, scraping with metal tools, etc?
  18. Yes thats where I find mine-I like plastic or metal forms-the mirror is waiting to break Use a large pan lid (remove the top handle) for that large curve
  19. Thrift stores are a great place to find shapes for moulds. Lin
  20. 22 inches is the widest slab I cab make with my slab roller, and I am beginning to become obsessed with making a 22 inch platter. It has to be footed -- there is no way it will ever come out flat enough to sit nicely otherwise (plus that permits glazing the bottom), and it probably needs multiple feet for support, or something creative (like maybe straight line supports radiating out from the center...). My first attempt, in which I took the flat slab and just stuffed old rags under the edge to make a lip, and then affixed many small circles underneath for support, was basically a failure --
  21. Yes, I was using the snap on adaptor screw bucket lids and they aren't worth the time. When you pour glaze out of the bucket, you're pouring across the threads. In San Diego, I'm getting the good buckets from a local distributor, but looking at the bottom of the bucket, the manufacturer is M&M Industries and their website is ultimatepail.com If you do have throw away buckets, be sure to salvage the wire handle.
  22. Yes, if the peg does not need to be vitrified, you only have to bisque it. But. If the firing peg is only meant to be a support for another item, a different option might be to just make yourself some wadding. The simplest recipe is 50/50 by volume alumina hydrate and any dry clay, EPK being the most typical. Mix it with enough water to make it mouldable. Wadding is typically used in wood or soda firings to keep pots from sticking to the shelves, and it’s very refractory. Wadding isn’t fired before use on the pots, and is applied while the kiln is being loaded. They are usually consi
  23. Typically, the nameplate rating is what we use or manufacture's recommended circuit size for the appliance. If Skutts' tech data recommended to size the circuit bigger than nameplate and it complied with code I would size it bigger. The problem is most companies throw in the 'must comply with local codes' to cover their rears, throwing the liability to the building dept who then tosses it on down to the contractor who tosses it to his liability insurance company, who he pays dearly for, which passes it on to the customer.
  24. @Jaynieliz I too single fire. There are 2 times when you can glaze. At leatherhard stage or absolutely bone dry. I glaze at bone dry stage. After the piece is made and it is sitting around to dry I leave them alone for at least 2 weeks past my perception of the piece being dry. I used to get spilt rims on mugs. The clay was not absolutely, beyond a doubt bone dry. Now that I have an extended drying period no more split rims.
  25. Bill, exactly. 15amp receptacles can be on 20 amp circits, just like in your kitchen counter outlets or bathroom circuits. A metric poop-ton Neil, but code here has been taken to a new draconian level here in CA IMO. Liability only drives the bldg depts and if anything deviates from it they want a prof. engineer stamp. They used to make a 'residential' code book for homeowners, so folks could do their own home improvements and not have to wade through the larger code books. I don't know if that still exists, and even that was the UBC (building code) not mech/elec/plumbing.
  26. You might want to try adding a long soak at 180 Fahrenheit to the beginning of your firing schedule. A 10 to 12 hour soak at 180 will take far less energy than two firings. I add long soaks to my bisque programs when firing student pieces, many of which are nowhere near dry when they go into the kiln, and have had zero explosions.
  27. Bucket LIDS have been an issue for me in the past. The Homer buckets last forever, but not so the lids. I bought extra Homer lids last time I bought studio buckets, which were stored in my closet with my clothes (I anticipated lid breakage over time and wanted to be prepared). The buckets, like I said, last forever. I am still using buckets that are at least 10 years old. However by the end of year 2 ALL the lids were in pieces - including the ones I had in the closet. They literally just shattered into pieces and left me holding the gasket when I tried to use them. I've not bee
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