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  2. not getting a crack in the lid is worth not doing that... might think a little longer before trying... thank you for your answers!
  3. Today
  4. It’s tough because if it’s a laser you need to recalibrate for emissivity.
  5. I'm firing this weekend, if I have a chance I'll take some measurements.
  6. I have measured after refractory coating with the flir (gas kilns) but only anecdotally it is so hard to correlate one firing to another objectively.. Always wanted to paint the inside of a lid and bottom of a regular electric kiln which would have provided a good platform to get real data. Had the ITC 100 left over too. Just too chicken at the time or worried it would eventually flake off the kiln lid.
  7. I put ceramic blanket on the top of my lid and it caused a big crack in the middle, wouldn't recommend it lol
  8. It will have an effect as the radiant component which will be reradiated back to the brick. This is measurable and something refractory coatings are good at as they get installed on the inside surface where their effect is more significant. It may cause the top of your kiln to grow and move more so be careful. Folks who add insulation to the top of their kiln often complain about the lid warping. It likely will not have an effect on the overall conductivity or R value though but likely should provide a measurable improvement. Most of the heat in the kiln ends up to be radiant after about 1000
  9. I don't think it would have any effect. If it's on there for a while it's just going to absorb and radiate the heat of the bricks, not actually increase the insulation factor. If there was a gap between the foil and the bricks it would reflect some of the heat, but that wouldn't necessarily help to make the kiln more efficient, rather just keep the heat from radiating to surfaces above the kiln. In direct contact with the brick, though, it's just going to transfer the heat right to the metal. @Bill Kielb have you used your laser pyrometer to compare the temperature difference between bric
  10. Well the title says it all... i tried a piece of foil on the top and the difference in temperature felt with my hand is impressive... i am tempted to cover the whole lid... the brick underneath seems hotter too. I am guessing there is perhaps a reason not to do that, what do you think?
  11. I'm not a professional potter, but I do make a lot of mugs. When I sit down I can throw a bag of clay an hour without feeling rushed. That's just throwing though. Handle time depends on how I'm doing the handles... If pulled I can usually pull 60 handles in an hour, which is my usual amount +/- 10ish when I'm doing handles. If I'm extruding I usually just extrude and attach right away and it takes only 5-20 minutes to extrude 60 handles, and depending on how set up the mugs are by the time I get to them, it can take me a minute per handle (when everything is leather soft) to a few minutes
  12. I wouldn't use your regular cone 6 clay, it's still going to slump, more and more so with subsequent firings. April 2020 C.M. has a kiln post recipe from Jeff Diehl that he uses up to cone 12, EPK 25, XX Saggar 25 and grog (30 mesh) 50. Another recipe that would probably work would be a mullite setter mix. C.M. June 2017 article from Glynnis Lessing making kiln setters ^10 using 20 Talc, 25 Tennessee Ball clay and 55 Mullite (100 mesh).
  13. Had to look up what Duron was. If it’s the Masonite I’m familiar with, I’d be worried about it degrading with constant wetting and drying. I switched from canvas to a smooth patio block and haven’t looked back. I do however have some 3/4” MDO bats that I made 20 years ago that are still going strong with no sign of warping. They have never been treated in any way. If I were to make a wooden worktop, I’d be inclined to use that.
  14. I'm not seeing the pinholes as being a big issue at all if the clay is vitrified. Look at Japanese Shino wares, pinholes are part of the aesthetic. If you don't want the pinholes on the next one then try lightly spritzing the bisque with water about 5 minutes before you glaze it. The dampened bisque will take up less glaze so when the glaze runs down it won't create such a thick layer.
  15. Major fail, but lessons learned. I found that the jewelry racks have to be fired to vitrification. The pics show why. These racks were just bisque fired. The holes on the jewelry pieces were just big enough for the wire to pass through and the holes shrunk to bind on the wire. So the holes have to be drilled a little bigger to keep them loose on the wire. The sagging caused the pieces to touch and fuse together... I may be able to salvage 4 or 5 pieces if I can get the wire out. I guess I'll be making new racks and firing to ^6. Then I'll test fire with a few scraps before making a production
  16. I have a cone sitter kiln and I’ve never used kiln wash on the sitter points. No issues in over 100 firings.
  17. Major fail, but lessons learned...see Forum entry.

  18. It also depends on your style of work. So if you spend lots og time decorating you cannot finish that and make that amount on same day. Some potters throw one day trim another ect. Some collect enough bique to fire fire and fire. It all depends on what you do with your work. I can trim and throw all same days with gas heater in shop or sun outside-many cannot so thats a factor as well. I am a fast glazer due to my style of work-looser can be faster. If your work is tight that takes extra time so style is a big factor. No one way fits all.It all depends on the work
  19. Wow, this thread is great. I would definitely have gone with canvas before reading but now I am looking at some other options and will likely be building a table once I figure out what I want out of it. I have some leftover duron boards from a project. How does that seem as a starting surface? I need to lay something on top of my current studio table because the current surface is not suitable. Should I paint it or add oil, as I've seen in some other comments?
  20. Store bought kiln wash is usually very cheaply made and making your own is easy. Read the thread pined to top of page on kiln wash coating just the cone touch points is all the wash ever needed on a sitter and its not a must do.Once you wash the metal edges where a cone sits it good for a long time.
  21. I am currently giving free shipping on everything on my site, and have just increased prices a little bit to compensate for some of that cost. I'll lose a little off the price compared to if I was charging shipping, but I'll still make more than if I was selling it at a gallery or had the costs of selling at an art fair. Shipping out to California costs me a lot more than shipping to Ohio, but in the end it will all average out. One of the difficult things about charging for shipping is that most online shopping cart systems aren't able to calculate shipping accurately when customers buy
  22. Hello! I'm trying to learn every detail about using my new/old L&L J18 Econokiln. I want to test the kiln sitter before use but the kiln sitter instructions are telling me to put a little kiln wash on the sitter before placing the test cone. I ordered some kiln wash but it hasn't arrived yet. Is it that important to wait to put the kiln wash on before I test it? The tutorials I've watched on YouTube seem to leave out the kiln wash step every time so I'm just kind of wondering if it's that important and if so, do I need to put kiln wash on it every time? Is it just to keep the c
  23. Hello! This is my first time asking a question here, I hope I’m doing it right! I decorated a mug with underglazes and then applied two thin layers of brush-on clear glaze. I believe my piece was over fired as the colors came out way darker than my test tiles. I’m really not liking this piece and was wondering if I could salvage it instead of trashing it. Could I sand down the clear glaze, repaint the underglazes and fire again? I was thinking of firing to cone 04 instead of mid ranging it to 6 again. Thank you for any help!!
  24. @Mark C. That’s actually really interesting. From a dollar perspective, I tend to aim for $1000 a day throwing, but spend the day after finishing.
  25. Thanks so much for these helpful responses! I do realize that there is some range in both the bisque and glaze firings, I was just trying to get a general understanding of the differences between the different types of clay. I have done some research and am feeling much more informed. It looks like there are a lot of other conversations on this forum to will be helpful too. Glad I joined!
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