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  2. I give a box of seconds away at xmas every few years -on a take one basis depending on the issue -usually its to customers but also anyone who sees the sign-nothing thats hurtful or going to not work well. Just pots that are a bit off. I usually do not want anything for them I used to never do this but at my xmas booth if I have a pile of true seconds I have done this before.Its ben a good feeling for those who cannot afford the work as well, during the holidays. This year I do not have any. Seconds are best left to the hammer most of the time.Repairs on functional ware will not stand the test time so why bother.
  3. Today
  4. OK, Neil has the correct drawing and looking closely at your picture probably wired OK but likely has a problem with top or bottom wiring, relay or connections. Some of the difficulty diagnosing this has to do with where you put your meter. So to that I took your picture and made notations of how these things should be connected to your relays, themselves as well as where to measure the amperages. There are basically three amperages to check and the best way is to measure is the wires that go to each relay. So You should measure R1, R2 and R3 and compare to what I have written down as the anticipated "New element" amperage. This also assumes that your voltage is truly 240 Volts so if you are very close then all is likely good with that element set. An interesting thing to know The top and bottom elements are identical and should measure nearly the same so - about 13.3 amps The middle (four) elements are hooked in series parallel and act as one giant 5000 W element Suggested I like neat wiring and neat clean tight connections. It not only looks good but decreases heating in the wires, so when you can: neat, clean appropriate length connections with some room to be cut back and repaired later. Not a huge amount, maybe a 4 inches of spare, no unnecessary loops and double backs. Wires to be amprobed (Clamp on Ammeter) can often be tie wrapped together at a convenient point making it easier to measure in the future. Last observation I think you will find a bad relay, or loose wire or burned end so look closely with the power off The thermocouple - if it is working now likely will not fix this, its not a thermocouple issue. I have written your anticipated new element resistance as well. This is a great way with power off to be able to check the wear and tear on them. The easiest way I believe is to measure as marked and once these values rise by 10% or in the case of measuring amperage the amperage decreases 10% your elements are wearing out and likely need replacement soon. when measuring amperage just clamp around one of the two wires that goes to the element set. This is the amperage for the whole element. Either wire can be clamped around and in these circuits they will measure identically one at a time. Good Luck, stay safe and good luck with your show!
  5. I think you got it. 11500 w, not so neatly wired so I think I will give her a tool she can use to keep this straight and troubleshoot. Obviously there is something disconnected and her amperage readings in the center section are repetitive so confusing.
  6. The pots will probably be fine since you only got to 1600F. Sometimes if you get hot enough the glaze will be melted some, and then it will crawl when the kiln shuts off. Totally depends on the glaze. But if everything looks good, go ahead and refire it.
  7. I just noticed that the upper elements on the kiln are not working and it did not reach temperature. I was firing a cone 6 glaze load. It only reached around 1600F. Once I fix the kiln, can I refire the load? Will it damage the pots at all?
  8. I would never trust a repair long term, and I don't want poor quality work of mine on the market, so they go into the trash.
  9. I believe it may be wired correctly. The top and bottom elements each come off their own relay, and the middle four are wired in two series pairs. Double check the middle elements. This is different than how most other kiln companies do it, where the elements are typically all wired in pairs, with each relay feeding one pair. It works, though.
  10. Give me a bit to enhance this picture on a large screen but at first glance this does not appear to be the proper wiring if I am to believe it is an SNf 243 or TNF 243. Having said that I am sure it worked at some time. Can you double check the model #. It should be on a plate attached to the kiln. Since it has a controller it will likely be a TNF #. Again I will work with the picture and calc some of the amperage and try to visually trace the wires in the meanwhile. A better picture would definitely help, hard to see the relays unless I massage the photo a bunch, then it’s really grainy. Right now, I am thinking this is wired incorrectly or marginally. The top and bottom elements have changed pretty drastically (14%), well beyond 10% which is what would be allowed before replacement is necessary. Your total wattage measure is 21600 watts or 90 amps! Something is not correct here for sure, this is a 50 amp kiln at best but you measured 90? give me a bit to trace these and provide the actual model if you can find it
  11. I'd probably just put them in my own garden. I don't feel comfortable selling something that is in a repaired condition.
  12. I'm intrigued by the legs of the post on selling repaired work. I wonder what the purists think of the purity of my particular situation. My work is strictly functional, but has no direct ergonomic contact. Plant pots , for a specific crowd. Not kitchenware in any sense. Any repair is non structural and largely not noticeable. The functionality is never compromised. Here's a real tech tip. With Soldate 60, a product from JB Weld, called WoodWeld, a 2 part epoxy, is almost indistinguishable, that is, it is almost the same color. Filling in a superficial crack, it's really not apparent. I'm not big on selling repaired items, but anytime I have, I've pointed out the repair and gotten a big, "So What". My question is " Does this meet the highest moral standard, or even one or two levels below? So could these repairs be sold as first, or must they remain forever seconds (or less)? Mostly, I give them away to friends, if I don't use them myself.
  13. Yesterday
  14. This is a link to the model I have. I think mine is from the late nineties. I bought it from someone in Baltimore about 10 years ago. https://www.paragonweb.com/TNF243_7961111G00.cfm When we checked the amperage last week, the readings were about 18, 12,12, 12, and 18, top to bottom. Those were new as of August 2018. Readings then were about 21, 13, 12, 12,12, and 20. I've ordered a new thermocouple, it'll be here tomorrow or Wednesday. Here is a picture of the wiring. I have my first sale in 14 years in less than 2 weeks!
  15. @tinypieces, from the Duncan website info for the SN351 glaze they give 2 different instructions "Apply 2-3 smooth, even coats. Note the Clear Satin is only 2 coats." I'ld try the simplest test first to see if it's an application issue. Take 6 test tiles and brush on 2 coats of glaze on 2 of them, 3 coats on another 2 test tiles and 4 coats on the last 2 test tiles. Mark the test tiles on the bottom so you know which is which. (You can use a brown Dixon high heat china marker or a ceramic underglaze pencil or an iron oxide wash with a fine paintbrush to do this) When they are dry scratch through one of each of the tiles so you can see the dried glaze thickness (wear a mask) and fire the others. See if you get the clouding more so with the 3 or 4 coats of glaze than the tile with 2 coats. (leave lots of room at the bottom of the 4 coats test tile in case it runs) If you use underglazes on your pots then do the test tiles with those also. If the glazes brushability is okay but the glaze is super thick then it's fine to add some water. Keep good notes as you go along. Going forward use the unfired test tile as a reference to how thick the glaze should be.
  16. I had one high fire glaze that carbon trapped the pencil lines, but for the most part it burns out cleanly.
  17. Thanks Tony aka Hulk for taking the time to reply. To answer your question, yes, the glazes I'm using are low fire cone 06. I appreciate your feedback, the suggestions and the links to all the technical information. It's a little more than my newbie brain can handle but I'm glad to have it for the future reference because... after all... who knows when and where I'll be venturing next! Thanks again!
  18. Hi Andryea! The satin is a low fire (cone 06) glaze? What appears milky/cloudy may be tiny bubbles, which may be related to your clay, however, if not bubbles, there's "boron clouding" to look into, seeTony Hansen's article on the subject: https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_boron_blue.html ...the one occasion I've had some clouding (mid fire, cone 5/6), it was blotchy, in the clear glaze supplied at local Junior College lab; I had some luck with through mixing, sieving (eliminate clumps, likely gerstley borate clumps), and adjustment of the specific gravity and thixotropy (for thickness). Regarding consistency, should be ok to add water, however, to get the same thing each time, measure and adjust the specific gravity https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_specific_gravity.html and go from there, adding Epsom salt or vinegar for your thixotropy, gums or what not for brush ability. Adding water should not change the glaze chemistry at all. Down the road, you might enjoy mixing your own glazes? Do some homework, handle the components safely, and choose wisely! Tony Hansen's reference library is a good place to start, try some of the articles, perhaps https://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/glaze_recipes_formulate_your_own_instead_123.html ...but be warned, you might look up to see the whole day (err, a few years?) have elapsed!
  19. I set up my home studio about a year ago using only commercial glazes. I have a couple of questions regarding them that hopefully you can help with. My first question is... I love the look of a satin glaze and have used Duncan SN351 for a while with inconsistent results. I wonder what I am doing wrong. While it's not every time or eve on every piece in a firing but some pieces comes out looking cloudy or milky :-( Can it be the way I apply the glaze ie, brushing it on too thick or not thick enough? (I usually apply 2-3 coats) Do I not allow the glaze to dry completely between coats? Could I be applying too much pressure when brushing it on? Do I brush it too much (meaning going over it too much)? Then, I suppose something could be happening in the kiln too! Any thoughts or advice to minimize and avoid this from happening would be appreciated because whenever I use that glaze now I feel like it's a crap shoot and I don't like those odds. My second question is about the consistency of a glaze when I open the jar. Sometimes the glazes are watery and very easy to brush on. Other times the glazes are super thick and rather dry making them next to impossible to use. I wonder what can I do to make a glaze more brush-able without compromising the glaze chemistry? Maybe it's been sitting in a warehouse for a long time? Anyway, I've reconstituted underglazes by adding water without any problems but I wonder if that's such a good idea with a metallic glaze such as Duncan's Antique Pewter (SY1024). Thanks in advance for all your wisdom! Andryea
  20. Its a cool design, bet it sells well. If you are doing this to build a company and brand you might approach your video as a marketing tool to build backstory as opposed to talking to other potters. People that buy handmade tend care about the fact that what they are buying didn't come out of a million square foot factory in China. YouTube is a great place to post your video and embed on your site. Good luck, be sure and post your video so we can check it out.
  21. Both are mine, second one is a rendering. Yeah, it is a first test to see if it works. The design is mine. I want to clean up the edges more for the next version. I already redesigned the model, but I have to make a mold out of it. Good idea to have a video. I get that question a lot, so that will clear it up. It is quite easy to use actually. I will work on a video. Thanks for the subscription!
  22. Love it! Beautiful design. Signed up for your notification list. Also - it would be great to see a video of it in use - is it messy? Since you're pushing laterally rather than down, is it tricky to use? Would also love to see it pouring - spouts are so hard to craft with clean pour. I've been trying to make a little milk pourer for about a year now and every single one just kind of dribbles.
  23. Thank you all for the help! We are underway with the rehabilitation-- I'll post images once we are up and running. Thanks again! Best, Vanessa
  24. I like it! I think generally if it’s colder outside than inside, humidity inside should be lower as when the air is heated the relative humidity decreases. So during your geographic winter humidity likely will be lower and summer humidity likely will be higher in your basement.
  25. My guess on #1 would be a gum, tragacanth maybe? Have you read through the Mike Bailey and Michael Hewitt article thats here on identifying unlabelled materials? They have a few methods of trying to determine what unknown materials are. Not sure what you mean for #2 and #3 being "stone". How much of the materials do you have? Might not be worth the effort trying to figure them out if it's just small quantities.
  26. unless I missed it in the responses it didn't see mention of just climate humidity. Certain times a year (now in a lot of places) humidity is really high so gallons of water might be normal. I have a niffty little deal that sits inside with a remote like piece outside and it shows inside/outside temp and humidity. Something like that might help her to zero in because if the humidity in her house is not a bit less than outside there is probably an issue, otherwise maybe she is just taking a lot of water out of very humid air.
  27. Is this just a test? Great idea and pot. Is this an original design? The issue I see between the two pics ss the pour sprout. The 2nd picture shows what I think is a better execution of this. Way to go on figuring all of this out, have fun!
  28. Hello. I did a test tile with some materials I don't know their name. They came as a bonus with my old kiln, so I did a test tile in cone 2. I would be grateful on insights about this. I know one is a feldspar (because the box says so), but it doesn't specify what kind of feldspar it is. I also wrote how the material look in raw state. Thank you very much in advance. Edit: The one that says yellow crystal actually dissappeared. I wonder if it volatized, or fell off the tile.
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