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  2. Hey! Leslies products are still available at some place called Clay Planet
  3. It's funny to me that fine art is concerned with the originality of the creation and seemingly, we are not. They would put a premium on the original work and much less value on the duplicate. What I'm hearing here is that the press mold reproduction of the original carries the same value as the master. I'm sure not in all cases, but as a generality. Both carry the same label: handmade. As for bonsai, my opinion is that it is essentially a closed aesthetic. Meaning that a specific style and execution has been decided on as a premium. Generally it's a fine clay, no glaze, shallow container. Most frequently rectangle, some kind of feet and a rim. Instantly recognizable as a bonsai pot. Pots from Japan carry weight, although I'm told there are maybe a dozen potters in USA that specialize in bonsai. Why are they big money? I guess because they can be. High end bonsai, like any other high end is an expensive game. Individual trees are expensive, because they take a lot of time and care. A specific type of pot is most suited for the process of stunting the tree. It's up to the grower to make it flourish in this condition.
  4. Might want to switch to half shelves and stack them unevenly so the heat take a required path through the wares. Looks like right now the heat goes around them.
  5. Jiggering and jollying pots is every bit as soulless as slipcasting, maybe even moreso.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Thanks, I cover most of the design in the thread I link to in first post. I'll add a video below it covers most of the details in first 2 minutes. Basically it's one burner, not much area around the shelves for flames - they are all same size as the bottom one in video and stacked to the top. Not sure about pressures, my regulator is set to 1 bar I think and I adjust the needle valve on burner as I'm firing. I'm firing to cone 7 which usually takes about 7 hours. It fires fairly evenly top to bottom but slightly hotter at bottom on recent firings. The video was first ever firing. I'm now doing a bisque firing in about 5 hours total.
  8. I agree with Mark. Hard to know from the description. Anytime flame is not coming out of the peeps, air and therefore oxygen is going in. Kilns always allow primary -and - secondary air in during operation. If too much air (oxygen) creeps in before mixing with the reducing environment you can locally fire in oxidation. I need to know more about your firing, cone, schedule, reduction tim, gas pressure etc... here is a reduction basics video we created which has helped those new to it. It might be too simple, we are working to make something better in the next several months and a bit more comprehensive.
  9. Agreeing with Mark and Lee - slip molded not equal to handmade; while at it, where does jigger/jolly work fit in the handmade <-> machined continuum?
  10. I see it similar to Mark - slip cast ware does not resonate with me as "handmade" ceramics. However, if I am pressing slabs/clay into a mold that I designed and fabricated myself, I would consider my resultant pieces "handmade". A mold is not a machine. "Handcrafted" works as well, and technically provides a bit more wiggle room. I use that term--if I am using a label at all--for slump/hump molded objects when I did not make the mold. Handbuilt is a good descriptor as well. Now-a question for you, Cactus Pots....what attributes make a planter for bonsai worth hundreds of dollars?
  11. Instead of a car jack you can make the lever more like a Scott extruder from Tacoma clay art center
  12. Tom I need a bit more info on your kiln to help you is this a downdraft kiln?? How many burners and a brief discription of kiln layout like shelve stacking?
  13. I've struggled to fire my little ( about 3 cubit ft?) Gas kiln for just over a year. I'm finally starting to get results I like. One problem was what temp and time to reduce at. I've found that reducing hard between 940C and 1000C for one hour is giving me the best results for my glazes. I reduce by increasing gas and blocking the chimney to about 1" opening. I used to then open the chimney fully to complete the firing. I've finally figured out this is why (I think) I ended up with a lot on pinholing on quite a few pots out of each kiln. I think there was a large temp difference between different locations in the kiln. For the last few firings I have reduced hard as before, but closed the chimney to half open to complete the firing. This gives a flame from the chimney but not from the peeps like during hard reduction. Firing this way means I get hardly any pinholing - just one pot usually on the bottom shelf right bear the burner entry. The main problem with the last few firings is the reduction on the top couple of shelves is not very good. Is this a common problem? And are there any tricks to get good reduction at the top as well as the bottom? Thanks
  14. Thanks, I have a numbers equivalent that runs on my IPAD (see below) that you are welcome to. Message me above and I will email it. The versions we have made or are making: Excel Open Office Numbers (IOS) Google sheets (not yet done)
  15. Made a "bead popper" from an empty Chap Stick tube. Automatically centers the hole in the bead.
  16. Hi Thanks for the literature . All there is on the subject. I see the conversation is from 2015...I will try nevertheless: On the video the men are first embedding the beads in a huge amount of something, that sure isn't glaze, and then they fire them. If Reeza could post her research... would be nice
  17. Thank you Dick for finding the plans. I just ran across them the other day. I was looking through a bunch of Ceramic Monthly magazines before I donated them to a local high school. Denice
  18. Hi, That is what I am trying to find out, but after quite a lot of reading, I did not become wiser (on this matter). I found a lot of recipes and how-to's about Egyptian paste, none about Egyptian glaze though. It is obvious : they used a glaze which produced a similar colour. This figure, for example, has not been modelled in Egyptian paste: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/548310 nor this : https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/chalice-form-lotus Has Has somebody tried this, or a similar glaze? I remember the colour of Achaemenid antiquities resembling Egyptian paste.
  19. I do not consider mold pots(slip ware) to be handmade-more hand finished-but thats say a ram press as well. now slab work pressed into a mold you made is more on the line of handmade to me as you are making it not a machine the slab rollor is no different than a wheel in that case.
  20. God bless the inventor of the baking spay! After procrastinating quite a while, I just scratched the foam a bit, with my fingernail.. The foam gets off, I will clean the rest with acetone. Of course, no mould is produced... Russ, I will definitely try again. Big lightweight moulds would be such a relief
  21. Now that I've had my slab roller for a little while, I'm dreaming the impossible dream again. Bonsai pots. I have a 115 page Japanese bonsai catalog, all Japanese, yen prices. Big money too, lots of $500 and up pots. The great majority of them are press mold production. Which brings me to me issue. In fine art the terms are "original" and "reproduction". In crafts, it's "handmade" and whatever the opposite of that is. Machine made? If I make a pot from a lump of clay, all the work goes directly into the pot. In a press mold pot, a lot of work goes into the original and a lot into making the press mold. The original is probably more "perfect" than my pot, if we were looking at an original of that caliber, I'd be impressed. Question then is: Is a mold produced pot handmade?
  22. I think it's worth the investment. $800 every 25 years isn't bad!
  23. I have a question about bisque in the gas kiln. If your target is 08, how much variation do you have from top to bottom at that temperature?
  24. Hi, Thanks to you for the amazing work, it surpasses my imagination. Would it work on a Mac laptop? Something is happening with my mail, especially when I travel, I saw your emails, and then they disappeared , that is what I did not answer.
  25. I still have real bone ash -I did not know its gone now. I rarely use it now that I have that newer tenmaku recipe which was from a CM about 5 years ago by the way-cone 10
  26. Next step...out in paddock..pick your cow from which your mug will be made. Could be the answer with what to do with Grandad..........
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