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  2. @LeeU, thanks for the elaboration on your thoughts. Your input is appreciated.
  3. Today
  4. Test tiles, smart! White clay, also smart, less problems. My kiln is manual, hence not much help on programming your controller. Good news is your results should be much more repeatable. Also good news, your kiln and controller are well documented. Bisque load takes about ten hours for me (having run any water off the night before). Take good notes, and have fun!
  5. Thanks, The rampmaster has a slow bisque button and fires similar to that I mentioned above. The link to the ramp master manual is https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/3a9418_dc2236499ac84a71a2aaa5dab96eceba.pdf they also have videos available on you tube
  6. To give you a generic answer would mean to ask what kiln, what controller etc..... Instead let me say this: Drying, within a couple days - the green clay that was thrown needs enough time to thoroughly dry out, often referred to as bone dry first. The purpose of bisque firing is to burn out all the hydrocarbons and impurities while sintering your ware so time and temp are important Sintered Clay is still very porous and will absorb your glaze consistently. One popular temperature to bisque to would be cone 04 1945F The timeframe to fire is usually about 14 hours and does not exceed about 200 degrees per hour An initial period of drying time below 212 F is usually included just to make sure your clay is thoroughly dry so a sudden release of steam does not crack your ware. Having said all that we will need to know what kind of kiln you have. Below I have posted an 04 automatic cone fire schedule for you to see. If you have this control and pressed slow bisque to 04 then this is the schedule it would run.
  7. Hi hulk evenheat 3 cubic ft rampmaster controller stoneware clay white at this moment I’m making test tiles 60 mmx35 mm thanks
  8. Hi Richard! Please provide make and model of kiln, controller type (if any), type of clay, also general description of your pieces - as far as influencing your bisque, e.g. thick, thin, large, etc. I'm using mid fire clays, hence bisque to about 04. My research indicates the rate of temperature climb should slow/pause at the "critical" ranges, see this thread: https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/20132-slow-bisque-kiln-help There are several links in the second post; "Critical Firing Temperatures" would be a good place to start: https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/17903-critical-firing-temperatures I like red and brown clays, hence significant pauses at "organic carbons burn off between these temperatures..." and "inorganic sulfides from lignite coal particles and iron disulfide burn off." Ramping right up at the start, as I'm running the load up to 200F the night before and leaving the kiln fan on all night; even in winter the kiln is still warm the next day.
  9. Plus 1 to the comments above, also try searching this forum for slip casting. I have written lots of info on the process.
  10. Hi all i understand you can slow bisque fire within a couple of days after throwing. Can someone please tell me what firing settings/temperatures I need to set my electric kiln regards richard
  11. PITA...too much "protective" intrusion, too many hoops to jump through, too many hints to remember, just another barrier, and doesn't seem to be necessary if a first line of defense is in place and is working well (which it seems to be for this site--but you mods need to tell us if identifying and deleting spam is actually a burden on your end--that makes a difference, of course, and I would support a (simple) second tier of authentication, in that case.
  12. Yesterday
  13. Its feel in my hand . Its "balance" when in use. How it looks to my eye. How it fits in my cupboard. And Its functionality Not taking time to prioritize but bottom one is esssential but then....
  14. Just found a dynamite use for trimming tools...cleaning the inside and carving the outside of Jack-O-Lanterns...

  15. Seems like you could just add up the component transmission coefficient values and approximate. Maybe take some point measurements to confirm you are in the neighborhood of your calculated and decide on a percentage improvement needed. I used to teach this back in the day as a reasonable way to approximate existing system U values mainly to address unacceptable dew points of existing interior structures. Just to add a thought, at some point if this is functional and since it’s oxidation, you likely will need to have some “leak” designed into the system. Lots of cameras out there BTW for reasonable money these days Just another observation: the L&L heat loss data show their 3” 2.5 cu ft kiln has total losses less than 2400 watts /hr.. (8067 btu) @ 2350 F. Something is still odd with getting this to temp quickly. This thing should be able to make temp likely in 6 hours or less.
  16. 4000ish years I suppose http://www.mugs.coffee/coffee-mug-knowledge/oldest-coffee-mugs/
  17. Try a tiny bit of it in some fresh slip and see what it does. I'ld try about a cup of slip then add some Darvan drop by drop and stir it up and look for a change. I know they say 2 years but I've got some that is older than that and it still works but perhaps yours was getting old when you bought it. Does it have a manufacture date on it?
  18. @liambesaw @Benzine I've found that if you apply Sherril's Scarlet Kidney of Shining to the projected exposed parts at leather hard, sponges gain a +5 resistance to shredding damage. Your gaming table still will still likely appreciate a coaster. For those non-Dungeons and Dragons players, burnish the exposed part with a little red rib to smooth it out if you're worried about causing damage to sponges or tabletops. Work clean to keep the feet clear of burrs and crumbs, and give your pots a quick pass with some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper, used wet, after the glaze firing. My clay is fired to around 1% porosity or less, so I have no trouble leaving exposed clay on the bottom 1/4 to 1/3 of the pot. I haven't tried to test where the line is when a mug will break more readily if too much is left unglazed. I know if it's only lined, it's a lot more fragile.
  19. I think they mostly will be all fine for use. The biggest issue with molds is finding a buyer. Depending on your location in the country will determine how easy the sale will be meaning in some areas molds are still used some. Around here molds are free as they are to hard to sell.
  20. I bought a power rotating powersponge to clean slip seams and glaze bottoms years ago. The maker has since died. The thing sits over a 5 gallon bucket and spins slowly . Its a 10 inch or so wide sponge that picks up clean water and flushes off the slip or glaze on sponge as it rotates. Its a simple tool that I use when doing say my wall fish and needs smooth glaze edge. I use it very little as a hand sponge is pretty fast.
  21. Wow. I just read it has a two year shelf life. I’m going to feel pretty dopey if that has been my issue this whole time haha. Thanks for the advice
  22. This could be the key to the problem. Darvan has a shelf life so it could just be the efficacy of it has deteriorated. I work it out to being 56 grams being the ballpark figure you would need so I think this probably confirms the Darvan is shot.
  23. Yep. That's what I'm doing too A big wet sponge do the job. But of course it takes time when you do a lot of pottery.
  24. As I noted in this thread back in Dec, Terry is The Man Behind The Fallonator. Plumbing of the highest order meets pottery of the highest order! dw
  25. Sorry for the delay getting back to this. Decided against the 32x32 IR viewer since it has a fixed (distant) focus, so I couldn't build up a detailed image by taking multiple low-res close-ups. Seems fixed focus is standard on all the cheapie units. So I proceeded with the original "kiln caulk" approach, using ordinary kiln wash mixed up to heavy slip consistency to be extruded through an old mustard squirt-bottle. Originally, I had discounted this approach because I was fairly certain that by the time I had run a thick bead around the rim, enough water would have been absorbed from the start of the bead that it would have been too stiff for the lid to squish it properly when closed. The trick I came up with was to line the rim with strips of ordinary waxed paper, which kept the bead out of contact with the rim. Closing the lid thus squished it evenly, as desired. The waxed paper, of course, burned out completely in firing. I tested this idea first on scrap chunks of IFB in a bisque firing, where I wasn't trying to reach peak temperature and wasn't worried about the lid leakage. Afterward, the IFB chunks appeared to have a perfect seal between them, yet the top chunk could be lifted off with no effort. The squished kiln wash had bonded only to the top chunk, not to the bottom one at all. The subsequent glaze firing did make it to 1200 C as I wanted, but I have to say that I don't think the newly-sealed kiln lid had anything to do with that. I just started early in the morning (5 AM) and used a faster firing schedule once above 100 C, reaching 1200 at 9 PM. There was a little leakage glow visible around the lid, apparently due to the lid warping slightly so the side edges were a bit higher in their centers than the corners. Didn't happen on the front and back edges. (The upper element rods are just below the side edges.) So it looks like if I want to fire in less time, I will indeed need more insulation. The question is how much, and will it be reasonable regarding the cost and the added construction changes needed. I'm thinking that there should be a way to determine the current k value from the cool-down time constant, but I haven't figured out how to separate out the portion due to insulation versus thermal mass. If I could get a reliable measured k, I could compute the peak temperature to expect from added insulation.
  26. I have a question. I have recently come across a collection of anywhere from 2k-5k ceramic molds. From a home I purchased and am in the process of redoing. Some molds have been stored in a basement (dark and dank..but not dripping wet)..some were stored in a detached 2 car garage (no heat..but dry)..and several hundred were left outside in the elements. My question is 3 parts. 1. Will the ones stored in the basement and garage still be viable for sale? 2. Can the ones outside be dried enough as not to be ruined? 3. What is my best option for selling? 90% are strapped..and the other 10% have been stacked flat..with the 2 pieces of each mold meeting to make a whole. Seamlines are visible on the sides. None seem to be warped. Sorry for such a long post..but any help is appreciated
  27. Yes, size would be fine...and manual is fine for now. I'll post pics if I can get out to see it this weekend. There is a used Paragon A-8 -something-discontinued with 3 shelves, 2 half shelves, boxes of kiln stands etc. and cones...some brick damage, but doesn't look too bad. It's $600 but it's a 6-ish hour drive away. Argh. Too far to drive to see.
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