Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I have been glazing and firing bowls all weekend, no surprise. But today I am making a few carafes for a company on the east coast to see if they'd like to do business with me. Just a little commission gig to get some money flowing. Supposedly 20 a month at 40 a piece, that's at least enough spending cash to buy more clay and feed my real addiction lol.
  3. I could but that would be really expensive here, my garbage service is 60 dollars a month for one 20 gallon can (60lbs) and we are a family of 4 with 4 animals so it's pretty much full every week. I thought yard waste would be a good fit since it's free and this is organics, but I guess they've had issues in the past with it gumming up their machines. Womp womp! Now if it really does kill vegetation I have about 500 sq ft on my property of ivy and blackberries that could use a clay treatment heh. Will more than likely ignore it until next summer and try to foot wedge it all outdoors.
  4. You can't put it in your Green Waste barrel, but you might be able to put in in the Trash barrel (as long as it doesn't make the barrel too heavy). Call your waste collection company and see.
  5. This is what the Art A Fair in Laguna did with everyone the year I was there. You told them how many you needed at which prices, then they printed them for you. With a large number of participants, this would assure consistency of printing.
  6. you might open some of them to see their interior condition. the ones outside will probably be very poor quality, nobody in business would put good molds outside to be destroyed by the weather. they are heavy and were probably put outside just to get them out of working space. look for crisp edges and details. if not there, your molds are trash. to see their quality, push a piece of soft clay into the most detailed area and look at the result.
  7. On my bisques I usually candle for 4 hours with the lid cracked, I have found that even pieces on the slightly moist side of bone dry are fine like that. If it's moist like in a leather stage I think I'd just wait a day or two.
  8. Today
  9. If you are just firing test tiles, made from white clay and nothing else, then once the tiles are bone dry the firing can go quickly allowing that they are not stacked solid in the kiln. If you take a room temperature test tile (or pot) and put it against your cheek it shouldn't feel cool. If it does then you need to either let them dry longer outside the kiln or do a candle (preheat) in the kiln to dry them out. If the tiles are still damp then a candle of 200F an hour up to 185F with a 2 hour hold should be adequate then I'ld just run the preprogrammed fast bisque program.
  10. OK, it's not exactly on the workbench, but it is close by Greetings of the season.
  11. @LeeU, thanks for the elaboration on your thoughts. Your input is appreciated.
  12. Test tiles, smart! White clay, also smart, less problems. My kiln is manual, hence not much help on programming your controller. Good news is your results should be much more repeatable. Also good news, your kiln and controller are well documented. Bisque load takes about ten hours for me (having run any water off the night before). Take good notes, and have fun!
  13. Thanks, The rampmaster has a slow bisque button and fires similar to that I mentioned above. The link to the ramp master manual is https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/3a9418_dc2236499ac84a71a2aaa5dab96eceba.pdf they also have videos available on you tube
  14. To give you a generic answer would mean to ask what kiln, what controller etc..... Instead let me say this: Drying, within a couple days - the green clay that was thrown needs enough time to thoroughly dry out, often referred to as bone dry first. The purpose of bisque firing is to burn out all the hydrocarbons and impurities while sintering your ware so time and temp are important Sintered Clay is still very porous and will absorb your glaze consistently. One popular temperature to bisque to would be cone 04 1945F The timeframe to fire is usually about 14 hours and does not exceed about 200 degrees per hour An initial period of drying time below 212 F is usually included just to make sure your clay is thoroughly dry so a sudden release of steam does not crack your ware. Having said all that we will need to know what kind of kiln you have. Below I have posted an 04 automatic cone fire schedule for you to see. If you have this control and pressed slow bisque to 04 then this is the schedule it would run.
  15. Hi hulk evenheat 3 cubic ft rampmaster controller stoneware clay white at this moment I’m making test tiles 60 mmx35 mm thanks
  16. Hi Richard! Please provide make and model of kiln, controller type (if any), type of clay, also general description of your pieces - as far as influencing your bisque, e.g. thick, thin, large, etc. I'm using mid fire clays, hence bisque to about 04. My research indicates the rate of temperature climb should slow/pause at the "critical" ranges, see this thread: https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/20132-slow-bisque-kiln-help There are several links in the second post; "Critical Firing Temperatures" would be a good place to start: https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/17903-critical-firing-temperatures I like red and brown clays, hence significant pauses at "organic carbons burn off between these temperatures..." and "inorganic sulfides from lignite coal particles and iron disulfide burn off." Ramping right up at the start, as I'm running the load up to 200F the night before and leaving the kiln fan on all night; even in winter the kiln is still warm the next day.
  17. Plus 1 to the comments above, also try searching this forum for slip casting. I have written lots of info on the process.
  18. Hi all i understand you can slow bisque fire within a couple of days after throwing. Can someone please tell me what firing settings/temperatures I need to set my electric kiln regards richard
  19. PITA...too much "protective" intrusion, too many hoops to jump through, too many hints to remember, just another barrier, and doesn't seem to be necessary if a first line of defense is in place and is working well (which it seems to be for this site--but you mods need to tell us if identifying and deleting spam is actually a burden on your end--that makes a difference, of course, and I would support a (simple) second tier of authentication, in that case.
  20. Yesterday
  21. Its feel in my hand . Its "balance" when in use. How it looks to my eye. How it fits in my cupboard. And Its functionality Not taking time to prioritize but bottom one is esssential but then....
  22. Just found a dynamite use for trimming tools...cleaning the inside and carving the outside of Jack-O-Lanterns...

  23. Seems like you could just add up the component transmission coefficient values and approximate. Maybe take some point measurements to confirm you are in the neighborhood of your calculated and decide on a percentage improvement needed. I used to teach this back in the day as a reasonable way to approximate existing system U values mainly to address unacceptable dew points of existing interior structures. Just to add a thought, at some point if this is functional and since it’s oxidation, you likely will need to have some “leak” designed into the system. Lots of cameras out there BTW for reasonable money these days Just another observation: the L&L heat loss data show their 3” 2.5 cu ft kiln has total losses less than 2400 watts /hr.. (8067 btu) @ 2350 F. Something is still odd with getting this to temp quickly. This thing should be able to make temp likely in 6 hours or less.
  24. 4000ish years I suppose http://www.mugs.coffee/coffee-mug-knowledge/oldest-coffee-mugs/
  25. Try a tiny bit of it in some fresh slip and see what it does. I'ld try about a cup of slip then add some Darvan drop by drop and stir it up and look for a change. I know they say 2 years but I've got some that is older than that and it still works but perhaps yours was getting old when you bought it. Does it have a manufacture date on it?
  26. @liambesaw @Benzine I've found that if you apply Sherril's Scarlet Kidney of Shining to the projected exposed parts at leather hard, sponges gain a +5 resistance to shredding damage. Your gaming table still will still likely appreciate a coaster. For those non-Dungeons and Dragons players, burnish the exposed part with a little red rib to smooth it out if you're worried about causing damage to sponges or tabletops. Work clean to keep the feet clear of burrs and crumbs, and give your pots a quick pass with some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper, used wet, after the glaze firing. My clay is fired to around 1% porosity or less, so I have no trouble leaving exposed clay on the bottom 1/4 to 1/3 of the pot. I haven't tried to test where the line is when a mug will break more readily if too much is left unglazed. I know if it's only lined, it's a lot more fragile.
  27. I think they mostly will be all fine for use. The biggest issue with molds is finding a buyer. Depending on your location in the country will determine how easy the sale will be meaning in some areas molds are still used some. Around here molds are free as they are to hard to sell.
  28. I bought a power rotating powersponge to clean slip seams and glaze bottoms years ago. The maker has since died. The thing sits over a 5 gallon bucket and spins slowly . Its a 10 inch or so wide sponge that picks up clean water and flushes off the slip or glaze on sponge as it rotates. Its a simple tool that I use when doing say my wall fish and needs smooth glaze edge. I use it very little as a hand sponge is pretty fast.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.