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  2. Min, thank you. You're right. I don't know why the term "calcine" got stuck in my head, the recipe calls for 1000F roast and that's what I'll do!
  3. Today
  4. A cutting machine. Paper stencils, vinyl stencils, screen print patterns, hand building patterns, the list goes on. Love my little cutting machine. It's the silhouette cameo 2 and I got it for 50 bucks on Craigslist.
  5. There is often some difference in peoples definition of a slip versus an engobe. Part of my definition between the two is a slip contains more raw clay than an engobe and therefore a slip will shrink more than an engobe. Since your cups are now at the bone dry stage I definitely wouldn't use a slip, it will shrink more than the cups during firing and probably crack or shell off. An engobe would be a possiblity, but they have to be made to fit the body they are going on. Easiest option would be to use an underglaze. They can go on dry greenware or bisque. You can either bisque fire the underglaze on when applied to greenware or bisque or glaze over an unfired underglaze on bisque. The latter method can have glaze absorption issues as underglazes contain binders that can impede glaze application.
  6. I'm happy to see that folks are getting back to sales. Busy roads with off areas are ideal, and when a large enough parking area is available, big +! I am also glad to see that folks are wary of not weighting canopies. I can't imagine the trouble if a canopy landed on that busy highway, always remembering the drafts from something like an 18 wheeler going by. Lots of good information here. Folks need to add Tags to posts like this to help the search engines find relevant information easily. best, Pres
  7. Hi folks, once again no new questions in the question pool so. . . . . I have been thinking about some of the devices that people have mentioned of late that have changed the way they work or made some tasks easier. I, as all of you well know by now, rely on the Griffin Grip, but at this point, that is old news and old technology having asserted itself to many as a useful tool. I have heard others mention the digital scales for mixing up glazes, but I still use a triple beam balance to do my measuring. Extruders have been a big deal in the last 30 years, so they are not really new. All of that said, I believe my new favorite piece of equipment in the shop is the battery operated hand held putty gun that I converted to an extruder. The dies cannot be very big, but big enough for handles, and feet, gallery rims on hand made or altered thrown pieces or even thin coils for under pieces being fired. I find it has especially made my handles much more shapely as the old pulled handles no longer looked craftsmanly. A definite solution to the problem. I will ask of you to think about your levels of technology and answer: QotW: What is your latest favorite piece of equipment, either mechanical or electronic?
  8. The best method I have found for stirring small batches of glaze is the immersion blender. Use it, after scraping the bottom and scraping where the bottom and wall intersect, with a stiff spatula. My normal glaze batches are 1000g.
  9. I have been slipcasting recently using premixed mayco stoneware slip. I mix it well before pouring but there are always some darker swirls that you can see at the top of the bucket. They are noticeable when I pour the pieces where the slip reaches the top of the mold and meets in the middle. I’ve had a few pieces that show minor surface cracks in this area. What is causing this and how can I prevent it?
  10. A very common firing schedule is 1 hour on low, 1 hour on medium, then high till the cone drops.
  11. It depends on the firing temp of the decals. Find out what cone they go to. You can fire decals pretty fast, as long as the pots themselves can handle the speed.
  12. Hello everyone, A newbie here! For decal on ceramic, how much is the right amount of heat/ amount of time necessary? I use a Dowson kiln with infinite switcher. Thanks! John
  13. Hi ...... Have some porcelaine cups that have reached the bone dry stage .Am wondering if I can still use engobes or slip on them before bisque firing ? Also can engobes or slip be used on bisque ware ? and then does one glaze as usual ? Thankyou Nicky
  14. Ahhh and that’s one porcelain I’m excited about! Guess I’ll have to experiment and see . Thank you Liam!!
  15. I did read about the alumina with wax resist which sounds like an amazing idea, but yet another step I will look into standard clay , Thank you !!
  16. Thanks everyone! I'm considering two avenues: firing a piece at cone 10 and hoping it doesn't puddle (@Sorcery, love the "smell of caution on the wind" lol) -- definitely a cookie for testing, and firing another at cone 5 and testing after with saucers as suggested by @Min. Neither of those kilns are mine, of course - both are commercial studio kilns, so I'll be sure to notify the staff. Thanks again for the welcome! I'll give an update once the tests are tested.
  17. You are actually better off roasting it, not calcining it. Ravenscrag will start to sinter at bisque temperatures, it gets gritty and won't go through a glaze sieve. Put it in a shallow bisqued bowl and take it up to 1000F and hold it there for up to an hour. How long you hold for depends on how much Ravenscrag you have in the bowl, if it's just a couple inches then 30 mins is probably good. Weigh it before you roast it then again afterwards so you know what the LOI (loss on ignition) is so you can factor this into your recipe.
  18. Oh. I haven't thought about the color of clay body. The container is made from my reclaim that is a mix of a bunch of cone 6 bodies (light and dark), as well as some raku bodies. The raw color of this clay is somewhere between terracotta and gray. When bisqued it turns pink. I was more worried about the material being calcined fusing to the body of the pot. I want to calcine Ravenscrag slip.
  19. If it's a dark claybody then I wouldn't use it to calcine in, not that it would matter to the material being calcined but the pot might not have complete burnout of volatile materials therefore might have issues during the glaze firing. For a light body it should be okay.
  20. For throwing water you can use a crockpot, just turn it off when it gets too hot. For hotter water a kettle should work, even an old coffee maker. Could probably find all these things at a thrift store if any are open right now in your area. Welcome to the forum
  21. I found this thread from a random google search just now . I’m in the middle of figuring out my home studio space and the one pickle is the plumbing issue . The plumber came out today for a consult and after checking out my space he had this dreadful look on his face - all he said that it’s not gonna be easy nor pretty. I’m afraid to even see what his quote is gonna run. So what I have is an access to a faucet but no drain line . Putting a drain line would be a major Ordeal that involves drilling through brick walls , running pipes from the basement then around the house before it can get to my workshed / studio. And tonight just randomly I seek for advise on google and voila this convo popped up. I just wanna say thank you for all the ideas! I’m willing to put the effort into the bucket and tub method like a lot of people have already been doing and for the first time I’m learning about the cink! Pricey but I betcha would be a whole lot cheaper than my plumbing estimate. Just one question and I’m wondering if it’s truly necessary or maybe not; how about hot water during the winter months? Do some of you have a stove in your work space to be able to heat up water for throwing or cleanup? Again thank you .
  22. Not sure if this forum is correct for my question. Moderator, please move it if appropriate. I've made a lidded container for calcining some of my materials. It's greenware now, not fired. The question: do I need to bisque the container before using for it for calcining or can I simultaneously do both? Meaning, put my material in that greenware container and bisque fire all together. Why I'm asking? It don't fire often as it takes me a long time to fill the kiln. If I could calcine in the greenware container, I could then test glazes that contain the calcined material in the glaze fire that follows the bisque fire instead of going through another round of bisque.
  23. Hmmm, I guess it's the third school of thought! I wonder what the physics/chemistry are behind this method. I did stir the glaze by hand but it obviously didn't help. Maybe more vigouros stirring with a mixer would make a difference?
  24. Most stonewares don't pluck, the biggest culprit in my experience is porcelains marketed as "translucent".
  25. I would only think they may fuse to each other, as porcelain will stick to a shelf and "pluck". That is cured with wax resist containing a little alumina. You should also be able to use this if you find things fusing, but unglazed, at cone 5, I doubt you will see fusing. If you are East U.S. I recommend Standard Clay. Sorce
  26. If a glaze is thixotropic, all you need to do is give it a good stirring to loosen it up and effectively change the consistency. One of them drink mixers is recommended. Sorce
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