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  2. I looked on the internet and found how to adjust the speed control on my pedal. Makes all the difference in the world and I haven't had any pots fly off since. Much better than stuffing a rag under the pedal! I need to not worry so much and just make the pots from a serene place. Pics on the way. Thanks to everyone. Nancy
  3. Here's a pic of my kiln under construction. It could be moved with a pallet jack.
  4. If everything else is done correctly, this is unnecessary. It should not be needed to make it work, but rather improve efficiency of an already functional system. If you don't know whether or not the basic system works, it's going to be much more complicated to diagnose problems since you'll have more varaibles. If go forward with it, you'll need power burners because they will pull the preheated air through the burner. I just don't see how you could do it with a venturi setup. Personally, I prefer power burners because you can use fewer burners, they're easy to adjust, and you don't have to rely on the chimney nearly so much. Plus they're easy to build.
  5. Today
  6. Meaningful for me is some measure of improvement so 10-20% makes me real interested. Which generally brings me to think how much is available to be had which then leads me to think in quantities just to see if my hunch is correct. So ......... 100000 Btuh and for natural gas running let’s say 10:1 air fuel ratio. For natural gas at about 1000 btu per cubic feet of which about 1/2 will be primary air and 1/2 will be secondary air We ought to be able to get a sense of how much energy we could get from X number of cubic feet of air heated X number of degrees (sensible heat) A long process I know, which is why I asked what is success for you? 1%,5%,10%? Maybe any percent? Once we know some number we will need to translate that into heat transfer possibilities and see if any of this is remotely doable. My initial thought is it will be less than 1% without a decent internal exchanger, but that is just a guess based on current boiler and stack waste heat reclamation. If I get some spare time, post the size of your burners and I will work up some approximations based on enthalpy and we will see.
  7. I have used the stack chimney air with a copper heat exchanger to heat a hot tub during firing-worked great until someone shut off the pump than bam blew the hoses. I found it was not worth it as water and pottery are a poor mix during firing. Now a low tec building heat source with a blower may work great but its only when you are firing and thats ashort time in the overall time frame for all that work.
  8. Powered burners for something like this, I believe the hot air will mess with the venturis. There's a website out there documenting a kiln build using mullite tubes in the chimney to direct hot air through the powered burners and the exhaust from the chimney is basically "warm". Great use of energy, and the same idea as a heat exchanger in a home
  9. Luckily this project doesn't require a whole lot of intellect, just skill! Unfortunately skill can't be thought out, and just requires hard work and boring repetition. Fortunately, you aren't even engaged yet so you have plenty of time to practice! Take lessons, maybe even together, and do it on the side. Just be warned that learning pottery isnt something that you do on a lark, it takes hard work. If you don't think you can put in many (hundreds) hours of work, I would just hire someone who has already gone through the whole skill-building process and does this as a job.
  10. Warmed air is less dense, hence less O2 per unit volume. Supercharge it!
  11. @Babs The cracks are very smooth and clean
  12. Hi Ali! Your clay matures ~cone 02, hence your glaze selection should match up in terms of firing range. You might get a specific recommendation from someone who uses (or had used) the same exact clay, else something very similar, hence, identification is key. The vendor may have suggestions? From there, testing! Whilst you may have some luck just casting about - trying commercial premix to find something that fits - a stepwise/methodical approach should lead you to a glaze fit, and useful experience/knowledge along the way. With glaze recipes and glaze calc software on hand, and firing results in front of you, choose one (or more) to modify, test again. Along the way, you may choose to try out some other clays as well. The coe numbers that glaze calculation software generates, while useful, aren't necessarily absolute, per my experience. If starting over, I'd still choose to mix my own glazes, and try several clays.
  13. I would scrap that idea and stick to basics-let the burners heat whatever air you have-not worth the effort I think.In the grand scheme a 100 dregrees in a high fire or midfire kiln is meaningless. I think you are overthinking it.Just try the burners and see what happens. Jed I looked up the article from Nils Lou on the flat top (in studio potter Vol.6 no 1-1977)(yes I wasa subscriber then as I still am) the burners are from him I bet they are FL-1 liquid propane (Lou is dead now) burners-no blowers. I recall these as high output propane burners . I do not think they will work near as well on natural gas. as it less BTUs. Your kiln is so much smaller than a regular Minnesota flat top they could work-just get as much pressure as you can to them and it may take a few tries with orfice sizing.I would try them a few times with orfice changes before scrapping that idea.
  14. Yes I get the idea part -the mugs are non functional in nature-just the idea of the joining. That all fine but with zero clay experience a moon shot would be easier. I thnk making them with play dough would get the idea across.Yes play dough-or the air dried clay-either way its material that is forgiving and a process that fits his skill level as a 5 year old. The idea of love and hiching is there in this material -its the same with any material . The part that may be harder to get at is (intellectual masochist)
  15. I've been doing fused glass for the past 30 years and have an old front loading Paragon kiln with elements in the door.  The past year or so I've gotten hooked on pottery, and am ready to purchase a pottery kiln (the Paragon I have can handle low fire clay and glazes, but not anything above that).

    I really like the quality of L and L kilns, and am thinking about buying one of their front loaders (I'm only 5'3" tall and don't think I could reach the bottom of their traditional round kilns).  I'm concerned that their front loader doors (except for the industrial versions) don't have elements in them.  They say the extra insulation in the door eliminates the need for door elements.  Have you found this to be true?

    1. neilestrick


      Yes, the EFL series work very well, even though they don't have elements in the doors. They use a microporous insulation in the doors that prevents that area from running cold. I've seen the results of all their testing and there are no cold spots due to the lack of door elements. None of my customers have ever said they had any problems.

    2. SandyMac6614


      Thanks for getting back to me so quickly!  L and L front loader it is then!

  16. I would not do an exchanger through the chimney. That is above my DIY level. But, if I could salvage some of the heat from a more passive system, it would improve effeciency. I converted a smaller kiln to gas and struggled to get it to temp. It kept stalling out. So this time around,, 1. I have changed to natural gas.------ I had problems with decreasing vapor pressure from large drop in tank temp from too small of tank. 2. I have 9" walls and better draw from the chimney. I just am afraid of making another dudd. So I overthink it. I was hoping for a 100 degree differential. To do this I may have to stuff the tank full of steel wool to increase surface area and thus heat exchange. So what would you define as "meaningful" heat exchange? Jed
  17. callie, you know i just do not do computer stuff so i am hoping you might be able to use this info. the Loudoun County Va. library is having an employee of the US copyright office do a live stream on thursday, july 17 at noon. i do not know what that means so i do not know if it is open to everyone. i would send the email to some place if someone wants to read it.
  18. lee, nice job. may i suggest one tiny step further at the exact place in the making cycle that these are? if you move them to touch the long sides and place an old piece of cloth over them all, you can run a tool down the grooves between the pieces to soften the sharp rectangular edges (a rounded pencil eraser comes to mind as the tool) doing two at the same time.
  19. I like this idea a lot. OP could aim to make an item that is meant for display on a shelf, rather than one that is food safe and functional. Meant to express love, rather than expertise. The idea of someone making me drink coffee from a mug that is entwined with another mug that is also full of coffee makes marriage seem like a questionable idea :-). But if it was a metaphor displayed on a shelf, that actually makes more sense.
  20. and toss the rest of that particular "batch" of clay if possible.
  21. Well, I have not yet reached an acceptable refinement technique for a "final" version of my herb markers, but I'm getting there. So far there is alot of interest/enthusiasm for these. I have ten different ones (love the stamps I got from Joel Socwell/stamps4clay) to be glazed in ten different colors. They're approx. 7" after firing. All the scrap from cutting the form are used for tea light holders and small catchalls. white body, ^6. Small, portable to local stores, lightweight, EZ to ship.
  22. can you show the entire piece in a photo? i am wondering if the crack could be incorporated into part of the signature. can you draw a box around the signature using this crack as one of the vertical lines? in that case, you would do nothing to the crack except run a Sharpie down it, and finish the square or whatever shape you can do to make it just part of the background of the signature.
  23. also enamel paints from a craft store or art store - won't last forever but will be good for a very long time
  24. I am very accepting of things like surface cracks & other "flaws". I view them as the process asserting its independence & have incorporated that notion into my own philosophy/aesthetic about clay work. I look for the simplest solution that will do the trick if I want to cover it up or "fix" it. For a crack like that I'd do an epoxy fill & paint to match with a weather proof acrylic or enamel. There is an art to doing the"spotting" (photographaphic term) with paint (use a 000 brush). It's creating camouflage, and is a fun challenge to make that crack visually disappear.
  25. If you want to make them yourself then this is exactly what I would do: 1. Call around local pottery places that have lessons/teaching. 2. Tell them you only want to learn to throw a mug and nothing else in the most kind way possible as not to insult them, and that you have a final project in mind for your wedding. I would just have the handle extruded, this is plenty good and will make them match a lot better than learning to pull a handle on top of this project. 3. After learning to throw a mug well enough to make you happy, show them this picture and then move into glazing. 4. Make like 5 sets of these and then keep only the best one, hammer the rest and thank the teacher profusely.
  26. I am trying to make a DIY Pottery Wheel and have a good variable speed DC motor, but need a good stable wheel. Anyone have broken wheels for a reasonable price in the New England area?
  27. Marriage is essentially a state of entwinement, being voluntarily shackled together in a state of symbiotic mutualality. Using the architect's design (Katerina Kamprani) to do a knock-off of her piece as a symbolic representation is sweet, however have you considered not trying to attain the pristine refinement Kamprani's rendering and instead creating something that is truly your own? You could take the essence of the idea--entwinement/joined together--get yourself some good quality air-dried clay, learn how to construct mugs (yep-YouTube is fine place to start) and do your best. It would be directly from your heart & hands, warts and all--and be assured that marriage is a warts & all kind of thing. Other than that, I concur that the only realistic solution is to have it made.
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