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  2. Yes, you will still want to use a liner. The clay may be vitreous, but pots are far more pleasant to use with at least a liner. Salt doesn’t get down into the pots generally.
  3. Today
  4. All finger joints are larger and arthritic -lumby finger joints -45 years of heavy pottery work-so yes I'm 67 and been into clay since 18 full time since 76-hands are shot. I get cramps in fingers where they just will not work.No blisters In terms of a contact I occansionally drag a finger on bat while trimming a 40 bowls for example and my skin getts thin maybe bleeds. I tend to do this in cycles -I'm aware and stop it I space it and och. Sure no skin for fingerprints (no I phone print on and off-passwords only) Dry finger tips that bleed-usually always -I use suoper glue to g
  5. I now wear thin disp. gloves as I wear away my finger nails to the raw flesh when picking up the clay from wheel head..Too old to learn new tricks.
  6. Thank you - Neil I wish I read this before I left because I packed some personal glazes but plan to use the ones provided by the studio. I have gum solution at home. I mixed St. John’s black , a cobalt slip, and some true Albany with water. (To spraY on with an atomizer I packed.) Is it necessary to use a liner glaze since these will be fired to maturity? mostly planning to take advantage of the salt atmosphere for the look with minimal markings.
  7. Your kiln was probably made for jewelry or glass work or low fire doll parts, not pots. It only goes to cone 6, so if you actually fire it to cone 6 you're only going to get about 25 firings before you need to change elements, and even then those firings will struggle at the high end. If you do use it for clay work, you'll need to put cones in the kiln so you can watch them through the peep hole and turn the kiln off when it reaches temp. The analog pyrometer is not accurate enough to use as a gauge for anything other than approximate temp. For a firing schedule, use something like 1-2 hours o
  8. I second the sandpaper method. Use 220 grit wet-dry paper (the black stuff) and some water and you'll be able to make it super smooth without ruining the glaze.
  9. Mod Podge is going to get sticky after a while, even the "dishwasher safe" stuff. It's pumped up white glue. My first inclination would be to contact the potter and see if they have recommendations. Returns or exchanges involving online shopping and pottery are tricky, and I wouldn't go in expecting one, but letting them know about a potential defect is a good idea. If they don't know about a mistake, they might not know to correct it. If they do already know about it, they might have a fix for you. If the handle is otherwise sound and it's just a matter of the glaze has been appl
  10. Yesterday
  11. By "Chalky" do you mean it as a matte finish - or the finish is soft (easily damaged) like a piece of chalk ? It would depend some on how much the mug is actually used (an how often it's washed) - but apparently, there is now a "dishwasher safe" (top-rack only) version of Mod Podge, and there is this 'how-to' for using it to cover a mug handle with glitter - so, in theory, it would be OK to use that particular version of the product - but even that one says to avoid using it on food-contact surfaces, and never put it in the microwave - and the only way you'll know for certain whether it w
  12. Agree that those examples from DeWolfe don't look like ash glazes. I think part of the background colour is from having a white slip (probably somewhat thin) over a red claybody. Transparent zinc glaze with colourants. This glaze from Matt Katz might be somewhere to start if you fire to ^6. Have you tried sending DeWolfe an email and asking her? Even if she doesn't share the entire recipe she might give you some pointers.
  13. Alumina isn't usually necessary unless you are using porcelain that plucks.
  14. Hi there! I am a beginner and inherited this little guy from a friend's mother. It was bought brand new in 1983 and was never fired- its been in storage all this time. It is in great working condition but in all of my research, I have been unable to find a kiln thats made quite like this one so I am a bit lost on how to correctly fire it. I hope to make small ceramic pieces and pottery and don't plan on taking it much above cone 06 to start. Any help or advice is much appreciated! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pEKtcDIViSm4knT4-ZiFkPlvZfWjnmwE/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google
  15. Hello friends. My wife recently purchased this mug. She really likes it but has issues with the handle - it feels "chalky." She was hoping to cover the handle with a glaze of some sort to improve the situation. Can you tell me the best way to go about that? She has something called Mod Podge that she was thinking of using, if that sounds like an option...? Thanks, MM
  16. I never get callouses or blisters, but my hands get dry occasionally and will split. Especially during the winter. It feels fine once I get clay on my hands so I try to just keep my hands covered in clay as much as possible
  17. It could contain alumina as an anti sticking agent. This can help anything come out better. Sorce
  18. Ok, one more, this one is purely iron crystals, only a hint of zinc to initialize and help melt.
  19. It will not affect the salt firing, it'll just be tough to get your liner glazes to stick as well. Heat them up a little before glazing, and dry the glaze (carefully) with a torch if they're not drying fast enough. You could also mix up a little glaze with gum solution and brush it on, as the gum will help it stick.
  20. Wax is only there to make it easier to clean glaze off the bottom after dipping, so it's not needed if you're not glazing. But like Liam said, it's easier to have blanket rules for every piece, as it avoids the problems that may pop up every now and then. I have a rule or two like that in my studio.
  21. Microcrystalline are my wheelhouse Here is strontium crystal magic over variegated slate blue: Here's straight behrens Here's SCM over jens juicy fruit Same here They all have 3 things in common. High zinc (>20%), titanium, and lithium
  22. Yeah they don't look like the ones you're swooning over, I was just posting an example of zinc crystals, which is what those are. Titanium and lithium are in almost every crystalline glaze. See "binger" as well.
  23. Your linked to pictures look like glazes over Strontium Crystal Magic Cool. SCMC has both Lithium carb and titanium dioxide
  24. Looking to sell? If so, where are you and what price, please?
  25. As a novice, I bought one of those new. The university I had been working in had them so I figured it was a wise choice. Wouldn't spend the money for it new again, but I have taught others on that wheel and it's good for that. For $250 it's probably a good deal.
  26. That shelve (ladder style) I have in 3 foot 4 foot 5 foot and 6 foot sections. I actually have 5 and 6 feet ones in pairs. The one in the photo has a warped top shelve-I have one that is straight as well. It got warped in someting other than pottery sales (you do NOT need a middle ladder). These are maple or birch plywood with banded (heat tape wood edges of maple) you install with hot iron and trim down.The top and bottom shelve has cleats that lock the spread from coming in or out. These fit over the ladder crossbars. This racks are super stable.I use the 6 footers at every show. They are
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