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  3. That will work but then you need some rope and two stacks to hold out the poles. I'm on the street alot and asphalt and stakes are a bad mix. The wood or small conduit clamp in the upper crosses very well as stick out as much or as little as you need (very adjustable)I use pony clamps . Then fold whatever fabric you need over the exxtensions and clip up the excess .
  4. At a final ramp of 500/hr I would expect it to be under-firing, not over-firing. But it's definitely a good idea to adjust the final ramp to 108F/hr and use the cone charts to make sure you're starting with numbers that will be more accurate. You'll also need to try it without the 15 minute hold, as that is adding almost a full cone of heat work. Get it dialed in first without holds and the appropriate ramp, and go from them. I think you will still need to adjust the thermocouple offset. Have you tried a pre-programmed firing schedule? Is this a wall mounted unit, or did you replace a Skutt KM kiln mounted controller with the TAP? Do you have a thermocouple protection tube?
  5. To evaluate this you need to modify your schedules so the last 200 -250 degrees of you firing happens at about 108 degrees per hour. Take a look at the Orton chart, pick a speed and finish temperature for the last segment (generally 108 per hour for center column) fire that way and see if it’s over or under, might be right on. From there you can dial in any offsets needed. Digital controllerS can emulate cones but you must fire the last segment reasonably close in speed and temp per the cone chart else all bets are off. The last 200-250 degrees is where the most meaningful heatwork is done. Prior to that, not so much. also not sure why you want the hold at top temperature either as this will likely move one cone higher in fifteen minutes. My advice, dial it in plain Jane first, then you can fire with variations based on that knowledge.
  6. I'm not familiar with the controller, does it have a thermocouple offset setting? If so you can dial it down a bit to match your cone results.
  7. Hi all! I have a Skutt 818 with a digital TAP controller and a new type k thermocouple. I've completed two firings, one bisque, and one glaze, and both overfired. I placed a Cone 06 witness cone (it's all I had) in the cone 06 bisque fire and it melted completely. I placed cone 5, 6, 7 witness cones in the cone 6 glaze fire and all melted completely. Based on the shape of the cone 7 and the color of the plainsman m332 clay, I suspect the kiln reached cone 8. These are the firing schedules I used: Cone 06: ramp 100 degrees/hour to 200 degree setpoint. hold for one hour. ramp 200 degrees/hour to 1600 degree setpoint. ramp 500 degrees/hour to 1830 degree setpoint. hold for 15 minutes. Cone 6: ramp 200 degrees/hour to 220 degree setpoint. ramp 350 degrees/hour to 2000 degree setpoint. ramp 150 degrees/hour to 2190 degree setpoint. hold 15 minutes. ramp down 500 degrees/hour to 1900 degree setpoint. ramp down 125 degrees/hour to 1400 degree setpoint. My firing logs show that the kiln hit the proper temperature... but the witness cones tell a different story. Any idea why I'm experiencing this inconsistency? Any tips would be much appreciated! Thank you in advance. Kayley
  8. @oldlady Good advice all around. I did five shows last year and always had a friend help me, we always had supplies like coffee and such. She is the person that encouraged me to get started and to do this one-person pop-up show next month and is ecstatic and eager to help me again. @neilestrick Good idea @Mark C. I was thinking along the same idea. I have a tent that has a door flap that is held up by two poles. I'm considering installing two grommets in the canopy door and use those tent poles to do the same thing.
  9. Nabertherm makes really nice kilns. They run great, have solid state relays, great insulation, etc. The down side of all that is that they're difficult to repair compared to other kilns. Because they're not built in sections, it's difficult to get to broken bricks, and the wiring is fairly complicated. But if you're careful you won't need to replace bricks, and the electrical system should last a really long time before needing repairs.
  10. I don't think anything on the Skutt is stainless. Looks like it but it's not. Keep the outside clear of glaze splashes, they will rust there.
  11. When I pour it is very similar to the picture you shared. The funnels I’m using fight tight and form an extension. They only go in the mold about 1/2 inch, so they don’t prevent the air from escaping. The hole in the bottom of the funnel matches the hole in the mold, which is rather large so is not limiting the flow into the mold. I will get a large pitcher so I can pour it more quickly and see if that solves it. Thanks!
  12. Managed to find a DIY slip viscosity test, anybody got a better one (with target value(s))? in https://aardvarkclay.com/pdf/technical/Basicsofslipcasting.pdf Step2. VISCOSITY OR FLOW TEST To determine the proper amount of deflocculant, you must measure the viscosity/flow of the slip. The viscosity/flow test measures the time for a set volume of slip to flow out of a container. A viscometer that measures slip flow over a period of a minute or longer is recommended. An alternative is to construct your own. Use a 10" piece of 2" diameter PVC pipe. Connect a cap with a 5/32" hole drilled in the center. Turn the container over so the hole is facing downward, place your finger over the hole, fill the container to the rim with slip, and then let the slip drain into a 250ml .graduated cylinder. Time the flow from when you remove your finger until the slip fills the graduated cylinder to the 250 mark. The time should be about 25 seconds for good slip
  13. Hello, have you thought about chamber kiln? I've bought this one recently. They are making their kilns on the base of running their own Ceramic Manufacture so they know what they are doing. Remember that this type of kiln won't affect any backpain and is way more effective even related to small home studios, plus Bentrup controllers which they are using are the best. Shipping to Sweden is also not a problem plus they came with kiln and show you how to use it. I have this one dm me if you have any questions link below https://sklep.kepka.com.pl/en_US/p/Chamber-Furnace-CT-50-EKC-/808
  14. Thank @Min Greatly appreciate your info and input Have nothing to loose as I don’t want them plain So will try underglaze and engobes And see what happens Nicky :-)
  15. @prattcmRight, are you just pouring through unattached funnels, or do they form an extension to the mold: Obviously this forms a reservoir, but you don't want the speed of the pour over-restricted by a long narrow funnel neck. (Just realised I don't understand how the last of the air escapes if you have two long funnel necks dipping below the surface of the slip in the mold. Maybe it's better to have a filling funnel in the lower hole and a collar round the other hole.) Looking at the top pix: using a slightly sloping mold must influence the manner in which the slip meets the top of the mold. This can help avoid air-pockets, but it may also help reduce wreathing. Anybody have any thoughts? Agree with the suggestions that the slip may be over deflocculated, but using a shop-bought premix makes this difficult to address (you cannot remove deflocculant). As Min said, it's worth checking the specific gravity, you can at least reduce this if appropriate.
  16. Huh, that's a good idea - to stick your materials for roasting in the kiln together with luster stuff!
  17. That's exactly how it worked (still does!) at the studio I used to hang out at! Toilet brushes and all!
  18. @prattcm, since you have a 3D printer you could print out a collar and use a coil of clay to attach it to the mold. edit: we posted at the same time, ignore what I wrote above. I'ld get the slip into the mold faster and start measuring the specific gravity if you aren't already doing that. It might need adjusting.
  19. Sorry for the confusion. This is what the mold looks like closed. I have two silicone funnels I put in each hole. The slip does not drop below the mold level during casting. These lines happen during the initial filling of the mold
  20. Yeah I use a red clay bisqued pot to calcine and haven't noticed any discoloration or ill effects, but I only calcine to cone 022-018 now so I'm not wasting energy during lustre firings.
  21. In a perfect world I'ld use a bisqued shallow pot. If you didn't crank the kiln up too fast my hunch is using a greenware dark clay probably won't make an appreciable difference to what is being roasted or calcined.
  22. Molds need a larger area at top of spur to fill extra so as the walls thicken it drops down but is above mold level.You can and may have to top this off as well as the level drops. Molds made without this reservoir will have issues.You can add this top with a collar to yours as it looks like this may be an issue
  23. @Josephine contreras Yep, just call Bartlett and they can sell you a new one that will fit in the opening. www.bartinst.com
  24. Got wet in the rain,Buttons would not respond to commands. Would not respond at all Removed from Kiln and box.
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