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  2. I have never leveled a wheel in my 45 plus years. I do make sure its not rocking -my old studio florr was way out of leverl and I made 35 years worth of production on that floor with an unlevel wheel. Not sure whats all the level fuzz is about?
  3. Today
  4. Longer duct, smaller diameter, and rougher duct will all decrease the airflow. Good that you are doing something and the something is significant. When we design this stuff we use real numbers and real velocities to capture as many small particles as possible. Use your mask, I guarantee you are not capturing all your dust. However this is all positive and the only thing I would add is to ensure there is a source of makeup air from out doors. No use accidentally pulling furnace fumes back down the flue into your workspace because it’s your easiest source of makeup air. All these things can be calculated and actually are quite simple really but most often too much for typical potters. Maybe I will create some decent tables for folks to work from. Anything is better than nothing and you have put reasonable thought into this so all good. Would we consider it adequate for sanding without a mask, no we would not. here is a quick video of how we go about creating a simplified designing. Some of this stuff you might find interesting. Nice video BTW!
  5. That's true, my wheel was not running true because it was out of level, the way the pedal is connected to the motor (cone) that hits the ring is bizarre and fascinating but is held in place by two small Allen screws. If your rk2 is off level the pedal will shift on one side over time and the cone will be hitting the ring at an angle. Levelling the rk2 and moving the tension bar to straight fixed that permanently. My three legger has been out of level from day one and I've never had a problem. Belt drive will work at any angle, have even seen a video of someone throwing on a hubcap
  6. We analyzed and built something simple. Part of the essential point of the design was to keep the blower cool so it lasted because we noticed folks just adding bigger and bigger blowers without sufficient bypass air. The goal in the video was to introduce the concept of bypass or room air mixed with a very small amount of kiln air. I think the design stacks up as well or better and includes some above kiln ventilation. For two kilns for about 250 bucks using all decent parts and should have a high use studio life of five to ten years or more. take a look: see what you think
  7. Yeah, especially flexible ducting slows the air down a lot, and an axial fan is high speed, low pressure so the longer the duct that is attached (and the more turns it has to make), the weaker it blows (sometimes to the point of stalling). Centrifugal fans are high pressure, low speed and are built for moving air through a duct, so while they still lose power over distance, it's far less than an axial fan. So for something like a dust collector (an actual one) or a vacuum, or anything where suction is the primary use, a centrifugal fan is the fan of choice. You just having an open elbow on it is fine and dandy, but if you put a 10 foot section of flexible ducting on it and put it down to your kiln, your 180cfm fan may now only be operating at 50cfm
  8. I've vented my kiln in similar ways before. Does anyone have issue with longevity of the fan? I had one before that ceased pretty early on in its life. Since then I've just moved towards a large a powerful window fan vent near by the kiln. It sucks 180CFM which is more than powerful enough to grab the heat and fume from the kiln. I don't have a picture. I've made a detailed build video here. Just trying to share a crazier unorthodox idea. It was much cheaper than your typical vent a kiln system. Thoughts?
  9. Do you mean any longer amount of ducting? I still get pretty good suction with just eh elbow, even though I reduced it from 8 to 6.
  10. I don't recommend any ducting with this type of fan (axial), you'll end up losing some significant CFM. Probably still plenty to vent a kiln but not really gonna do much for dust. Cool idea! I have an 8 inch centrifugal fan in my studio that I turn on while cleaning, it's loud but it exchanges the entire volume of my studio every 50 seconds, love that thing! Definitely not 20 bucks though! More like 60.
  11. So now curious because that wattage seems like it should work, where are your losses? Any chance you have some infrared pics or temp measurements? what does your measured R or U value end up to be top, side and bottom? I ask because L&L used to publish a table about their kilns and I always took it for granted that it likely was correct for simple design and waste heat purposes. They all fall into the 3-4 watts per square inch but none are super insulated. A 1 cu ft kiln should be on the order of 750 sq. Inches (round) so 2100- 2800 watts seems doable.
  12. This is not possible: The clay will always move in relation to the wheel head, regardless of whether or not the wheel is level. Your hands do not know where level is, either. Do not confuse the wheel being out of level with the wheel not running true. A wheel that is not running true- the wheel not being perpendicular to the shaft on which it rotates (a wobble)- can definitely cause problems.
  13. Like I said, I don't have issue anymore, especially since switching to my big boy. And I throw crooked every night, but when I was first starting it was an issue that magically disappeared when I leveled my shimpo. Y'all don't remember the struggle!
  14. Here is the venting system that I use. I made it myself and it was MUCH cheaper than a whole system. It works for kiln fumes and also for silica dust. It's basically just a through wall kitchen fan but it moves 180 CFM and you can add whatever piping you want that works for your studio goals.
  15. I’ll have to try but I still think it’s difficult to throw crooked, save all the other reasons for things to wobble.
  16. If the wheelhead rocks because the wheel is on 4 feet on an uneven surface or because the top bearing is shot that's going to cause a problem with an uneven rim. Liam, try the experiment in the video but just put the wheel slightly out of level and see how it turns out. Also, we've probably all had uneven rims when starting out, that's from a different issue though, uneven pulling of the walls. All things being equal, if you don't have wobbly rims with a level wheelhead you won't have a wobbly rim with an unlevel wheelhead as long as the wheelhead itself isn't wobbling.
  17. For an old hat yes, for someone new no.
  18. @liambesaw I think it’s pretty representative. People throw in relation to the bat or at least in a line perpendicular to the bat. I think it’s actually difficult to make it come out level, vs perpendicular to the wheel head. Same even if he needles off the rim. You will be cutting at one elevation at the same point in space.
  19. Not really a good comparison since he's throwing at an angle too. There's a difference between doing something on purpose and chasing an annoying issue.
  20. Will this do? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNKwscKjtCc
  21. I had a lot more issues with level ground when I used a 4 footed wheel (shimpo rk2), but since switching to a tripod wheel I haven't really noticed. My wheel is about half an inch cockeyed, but so is my entire shed, so my chAir is cockeyed etc. And actually when I contacted shimpo about my old wheel having a head wobble, their first suggestion was to level the wheel. That worked, wobble gone. I think especially with these old cone ring drive ones it's more important than a belt drive since gravity has more of a role in the cone drive. With my new belt one, i haven't noticed any difference and my pots aren't cockeyed.
  22. I'm having trouble with this. If the wheel head is not level, then the foot of the pot is not going to be even with the base of the pot, as I'm picturing this. You can pull the walls straight and level the rim, but you'll have to trim the foot level, it won't be on the same plane as the rim. Change my mind.
  23. If your clay is anything off white, such as the Soldate 60 I get from Laguna, JB Weld's Wood Weld is almost a perfect match, color wise.
  24. Pacifica wheels work fine. I have a friend who runs a college program, and he has more Pacifica wheels than any other brand, and has no problems with them. the GT800 is a 1hp wheel, and shouldn't have any trouble handling 15 pounds. Personally, I think they run smoother than Brent wheels.
  25. Oldlady - One of my other hobbies is beekeeping. Wasps are not on my "nice" list already, they serve no purpose other than to aggravate, so I'm glad they've left us both alone!
  26. Yesterday
  27. Nice work! Back in business for likely less than 20 bucks! No,worries, center your 15 # gently on that wheel till you get a second or spare.
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