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  1. Today
  2. Yes, if fired to C 6 will be awful to glaze with any success. Glazing dependant on porous pots. Imperative you are around for end of firing.. Glazed on bottom of pots in cupboard...get a shallow tray, put old carpet or towel i n bottom thoroughlt wet. Place bottom of glazed ware on wet carpet and twist aroun d a couple of times. Will remove glaze from bottom pretty efficiently. Can do lots of hand construction with students. Wheelwork can be frustrating if you havent got it yourself. You will love claywork. @Benzine would have oceans of tips.
  3. Put the test tile on a plate, this glaze is going to be runny.
  4. Thanks Peter, I can now see how this works. The image that prompted this question had no indication of the effect that the addition would make. All the best
  5. Pots are way over fired and glazing will be tough at best. Especially as you cannot scratch them and no the the piece does not absorb much water Best to put a few cones in to see what the controller is really firing to. automatic kilns still need cone to saee whats going on or in your case what went on?
  6. @Syvanis The other issue here is that the kiln controller got too hot. What sort of venting is there in the kiln room? Is there a fan or overhead hood that pulls out heat?
  7. At Alpine we always put the thermocouples on the back wall, as far in towards the middle as possible, which is limited by the chimney, of course, but easy enough to get out of the direct flame path. Back there the wires are out of the way so you're not tripping over them.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Thanks, all! I will scrape the shelf, apply more wash to all, and fire as usual. And store them properly between firings. Really appreciate the info.
  10. The recent PBS Juror's Award for my Horsehair Raku submission and the follow up interview with a local news source has been my recent pat on the back!
  11. Pres, I will pick up that book ASAP. I am not actually using cones the kiln is automatic. It is a Skutt Automatic Kiln only a couple years old. Set the cone and it fires on its own without having to check it myself. At least that is how I have used it (I did two test fires before trying things with student work. Because of the virus there was a bunch of extra work left over from last spring.) Unfortunately, I had zero communication from the previous teacher and I am just doing guesswork on most of this. For example I can't find any wax resist in the room and the older work doesn't seem t
  12. Syvanis, Welcome to the forum.. . . .you may find much of what you need here. When searching for answers, try searches on the home page. This will search all forums for you in answering a question. Yes, your ^6 cone was too much. . . . what was the condition of the cone after firing? Did you use a full size cone, mini cone or a bar? When ordering next get bars for ^6 and ^06, easier to assure accuracy. Get yourself some books and read every night. One I would suggest, and I kept at hand every day was The Potters Dictionary of Materials and Techniques. This is a standard for understanding
  13. Yeah it was set at a cone 6. Which looking closer seems to be WAY over fired. Other than wasting energy are the other problems with over firing? I assume that is why my clay is brownish instead of pink. All of the glazes and underglazes are cone 5-6 in the supplies that were left here that is why I used that. But going forward I assume I can do a 06 for bisque and then a 6 for the glaze. My goal right now is to just be one step ahead of my students I am barely ahead. But I am enthusiastic and happy to further my own art knowledge.
  14. Hate to say it @Min, but often the demonstration is meaningful, especially to HS students. Weird is also endearing at times and the lesson learned is specific to the clay itself. best, pres
  15. What cone did you have the kiln set to bisque to? If you can't scratch the clay with something sharp and it doesn't soak up water you have over fired it. Bisque firing is done at a much lower cone than glaze firing, usually in the 08 to 04 range so it remains porous enough to take the glaze well. One more way to confirm it's overfired is to touch the tip of your tongue to the clay, it should stick a little if the clay is still porous. (maybe don't do this in front of students, looks a bit strange) Going forward I would fire the kiln when you can monitor it, especially towards the end of
  16. Really appreciate the quick responses. It was ring, no, no. So next week I am going to have them work on glazing. I am have a bunch of eager students ready to glaze. Now that is going to be the real adventure. We are all learning here and I will likely be back what some more questions regarding the finer aspects of clay use. Thanks again! Jerry
  17. Before you do anything, a few questions: When held in one hand, by the base, when rapping lightly with a screw driver handle or like object, does the piece ring, or thunk? On the underside of the piece or other unobservable area, can you scratch a groove into the clay with a hard metal point like an etching awl? Does the piece absorb much water when dipped part way into a bucket of water? If these answers to these tests are: ring, no, and no, then I believe your kiln reached more than temp, and the piece may be glazed without another firing. When glazing I would make cert
  18. Are you talking about a oxygen prope or just a thermocouple for temps? The oxegen meter is best in flue (last a lot longer) If its a temp only deal away from flame (not on sides near flame trough) front wall is best away from stack of wares or back wall -back walls usualaly have a stack of pots to near them so that usually is not a good spot.Mine are all in front door. The doior of car kiln rolls out and shelves are about 4 inches off that front wall. The upodraft is a swind door and its mounted to that front door as there is space between the door and laod. If you are stacking door
  19. Hi folks, there has not been a new question occuring in the QotW pool so I will bring forth a new one. I have been getting back into the shop of late as I have started bowling again and time is limited. However, I was assembling chalices, both pouring and regular, for communion sets, and found them going together very well, with the use of the a slight change in plumbing chuck on the GG. My original chuck had a taller rise of @10". I decided I did not need that height for the stem to fit into when trimming them, so I cut off 4" to make the pipe section 6" tall. Much more stable, and easier t
  20. There's no harm in bisqueing again, if you have time you might as well. You could glaze now and move on and likely be fine, but I would personally rebisque.
  21. I am an art teacher that was moved into a high school position 4 days before school started. I have a small amount of background in clay but am Learning a lot in short time. My students and I were excited to do our first fire (my first with new student work). Cone 6. Using Buff Stoneware from continental clay. After firing all day the kiln was at about 1500. I left for the day. Coming back the next morning the kiln alarm was going off giving an e-bd error meaning the room temp was too hot so it stopped the fire. Judging by the bisqueware left from last year it should look pink but
  22. I was thinking of two thermocouplers. The flue sounds good, then the second high on the front wall. Thanks Jed
  23. I would not place it over the fire. If permanent install and single probably in the flue. If for testing and more than one, then low medium high in an adjacent wall or opposite wall.
  24. Do I place my thermcoupler on the sidewall above the flame trough or on front or back wall away from flame? Jed
  25. Anyone knows where can I buy Black Mica to have a strong effect (50-80 mesh) I appreciate your help!!!
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