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  2. I don't think that would be necessary as bisque can withstand greater temperature variances far better than a matured claybody. My thought is it probably happened in the glaze cool down as the edges are sharp, if it was a crack that was there prior to glazing the glaze edge would be softened.
  3. How are you glazing? Interior first then the outside? Think your vessel is too wet on outside for enough glaze material to fix. Stirring glaze constantly essential. Looks like there has been a layer of almost water at top of your bucket and a wet pot immersed into this watery glaze. Does this glaze settle to a hard pan? Yeh, withMark.not for consumables
  4. Yes you can use sodium Silicate. Having to deflocculate glazes that contain gerstley borate is fairly common due to its tendency to "gel"
  5. Wonder if crack occurring during bisque. Wipe with a wettish cloth. Sometims minute cracks become evident after bisque if doing this. Are they "floating" on sand or coils , during glaze firing. How fast is your kiln dropping on colling?
  6. Today
  7. wonderful write up, thanks! Its unfortunate she won't tell us 50% of what as it still leaves me no feeling of whether its worth even trying one or not. I wonder why giving a net number felt wrong to her?
  8. yeah I think they take out the sign up times and lower the booth fee they get both some vendors and some customers to give it a go. At $400 though I bet its canceled.
  9. And worse, in my book, there is no written documentation of the complete operation of the KMT. There is what amounts to a quick start, and then all further information is supposedly available only through the on-screen help button, which is rather useless if one does not actually have one at hand. The Genesis has a reasonably full user manual available - a printed copy included with the purchase or online if you haven't yet purchased it.
  10. put me down for thinking its a great discussion as well. We all want our lives back and our shows happening again. Ya know while it is disheartening that there are those who still refuse to help us all out by wearing a mask I will say the mandate has made a huge difference in my area. Before my city passed the ordinance I would go to Lowes and I mean there were a handful of old people wearing mask, including the clerks and managers. That was particularly annoying because I had to deal with them. Now I go to Lowes and 99% if not 100% are all wearing them. Sure there's the burly tough guy without one but man what a difference. I get that its no guarantee but they are saying if everyone has a mask on the chances go way down and even that one guy whose holding out doesn't come close to negating the positive effect the new mandates are having. Most people will comply and before it seemed to me anyway that almost no one did it on their on (at least here).
  11. This is a good idea. For some reason, my last batch of AR was super "fluffy" for lack of a better word. 2 of my other glazes were as well, and appeared thicker despite the SG measuring the same as my last batch. I suspect it's the difference between the old chemicals I inherited and the new chemicals I've purchased. I can defloc with sodium silicate yes?
  12. Yes there are -I have one.all Manuel-justr perfect for an occasional bisque load .
  13. Try deflocculating it instead of watering it down. It seems to help in a lot of circumstances where layers crack or melt when double/triple dipping
  14. I don't know why Skutt insists on 'simplifying' their controllers. The KM is a dumbed down version of the V6-CF, so you lose the two bisque and two glaze options. The KMT is a version of the Genesis, but you lose certain options with it, too.
  15. @Katie Piro yes, programming is easy once one understands the logic of the controller and the technical requirements of clay and glaze. I have several very complicated custom programs for my crystalline glazes. But for many hobby potters, the simplicity of the cone fire method means they don't have to know all the details, it just works. And the quick link to a slow cool in the old controller gave them easy access to one more very useful option, no matter what cone. Now, one must program the whole thing, and know how to change it (or establish another program number) if you want to go to a different cone or change your ending hold for whatever reason. IMO, this is not an improvement for the average hobby potter who went to art school, not engineering school. and @Mark C., yes, one more of several reasons I too prefer L&L. But because people know I know kilns, they ask me which to buy or how to use the one they bought. There are a lot of Skutts out there.
  16. I looooove using broccoli elastic bands. Plus i lose them constantly and they are cheap. I'm struggling with my Alabama rain sliding off my mug trims when I layer over my other glazes. I'm going to try to thin it to keep some on the rim but I'm struggling because the thing I love about the glaze (super dreamy drips and swirly movement) seems to be what is pulling my glaze off the rim. Also please excuse my zombie reanimation of this thread.
  17. I had a subscription. The latest one I can find the label indicates my subscription was through 2017, but I don't see anything in my checkbook to indicate a renewal. Polly was a notable in the local clay community here, and it was nice to have this great magazine with local roots. Polly had some hard times happen in her personal life, and then she moved to Florida and the magazine sorta fell off the horizon. Interesting to see this new website suggests she is doing something with it, but alas, none of the links resolve to a functional page to buy anything.
  18. Send the orginal poster a PM for best results. welcome to the forum .
  19. Another reason to get a L&L another nail in the coffin for me Thanks Dick
  20. My black which is fool proof is 3.5% COBALT OXIDE if I recall. very pricey but flawless-I have posted it before but its a cone 10 glaze
  21. I have a KM-1027 touchscreen also and spent a considerable amount of time looking for the "cool down" menu item, like the non touchscreens have before realizing it no longer existed! I use the Cone 6 Slow Cool Schedule from the book Amazing Glaze by Gabriel Kline from Odyssey Clayworks. Segment 1: 100 degrees per hour up to 200 degrees. Segment 2: 450 degrees per hour to 1900 degrees. Segment 3: 108 degrees per hour to 2196 degrees. Segment 4: 150 degrees per hour to 1700 degrees. It's very easy to program. I also really recommend this book. Tons of great recipes, firing schedules and creative ideas. Good luck!
  22. OK everyone has great ideas but how about maybe the glaze gods snuck in and wiped it clean after the lid was shut? I normally do not drink the cool aid
  23. If the legs don't all reach the floor, something like this will help. They're made for heavy duty workbenches, so they should hold up. Google "workbench levelers" and you'll find lots. Might have to fabricate an attachment bracket for this one.
  24. Copper carbonate loses its carbon and water at around 550f, and the copper oxides start vaporizing towards cone 6. However this doesn't appear to be that, was there a second glaze on the outside? If so, it could have just pulled the copper glaze into it, especially if it wasn't well attached to the clay (such as when glazing the inside and outside at the same time, or putting a high clay glaze on top of a low clay glaze).
  25. Absolutely, electric kilns, Oxidation atmosphere, will flash just as much as a gas kiln. I used to use a tin base glaze, with copper in my stains with over glazing. The reason was that I wanted the pink flash to appear in areas. This effect worked well for a few years, then I go tired of it and moved on. Of late, I use a combination of zircopax and tin for the color I want, then soften it with a slight percentage of rutile. This does not flash at all. best, Pres
  26. I didn't get any info on this. The owner of my company does not want to buy from multiple ceramic material producers. So, I did request a non cobalt black. It's just a manganese black from what the Smalticeram rep told me.
  27. Update! The material representative I have been speaking with about the glazes from Smalticeram is here! The update is that eventually I broke down the glaze in the formula above. Like I said before, I took out the CoSi blue and it changed nothing, so I finally put only the stains separately in the base. The black and orange stains came out discolored. The only other thing I could think of was the silica that we had changed bags of. We got new silica on Monday. "New", but the Smalti rep says that it is from the same 1000KG sent in from Italy. I do not know why it would start effecting the stains now? Because of the discoloration, I took the silica out - no one on my team thought it was that, but I wanted to try it anyway. And the result was impressive. It absolutely fixed the issue. The orange stain in particular began to act just as I had assumed it should have from the beginning. There is no way it would break pink where thin. Maybe more yellow-y, but the right tile pictured is what I have experienced these particular stains to act like before.
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