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  2. I have gathered some odds and ends porcelain parts from knob and tube wiring in old houses, some old elements that are broken into 2-3 inch pieces and some thin porcelain tile that is 2x2 inches square. They all make good stilts for odd projects I buy the tile from closeout bins and pay two dollars a sheet, one sheet is 12x 24 inches. It is the type of unglazed porcelain tile is used in historic homes. It is cheap enough I would throw them away if glaze ran on to them. I would stay away from a runny glaze in that area, when I have a area like that I will put a thin layer of glaze next to the edge or leave a quarter of a inch unglazed. If I am worried about glaze combinations I will often make a small sculpture of it and test my glaze combination on it. Denice
  3. Truth betold ceramics is far from an environmental friendly activity. Recycle what you can but face up to the fact that we are all contributing to global warming with pottery no mater what you fire. This is old news really.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Whatever you try, make sure everything is well dry before you bisque. Can make an excellent repair only to blow it by assuming all is dry a little later. Moving on, Throw your bowl, let it firm, tidy up the bottom of pot, place upside down on wheelhead, attach a thick coil on on bottom if bowl then throw your pedestal. Dry slowly. Just saying.
  6. You're in it whether you participate or not unfortunately.
  7. Hi Allen, From your title it sounds like you are asking about an underglaze but it could be an iron wash you are asking about, not sure. Are you just looking to brush iron oxide under or over a glaze? If this is the case then an iron wash might be what you are looking for. A wash is put on much thinner than the typical underglaze or slip. One cone 6 -10 iron wash recipe is 25 ball clay, 25 nepheline syenite, 50 red iron oxide, mixed with water to a thin consistency. I would try it on a test tile under your glaze before using it on a real pot. If your glaze is high in calcium it will bleach out the iron and it will turn a straw colour. Like everything in ceramics test it first. Underglazes are formulated to go on greenware or bisque, usually have a frit base so they don't shrink excessively which would in turn cause cracking and lifting issues. There are commercial brown underglazes available, you can make them yourself but it's not cost effective. Underglazes can also be used overtop of glazes but with some colours there could be food safety issues with not having a covering glaze over them. Underglazes are typically made with stains not raw oxides. If you use slip with iron oxide there will be shrinkage and cracking issues if you put it on a bisque fired pot under or over the glaze. Slips are typically put on the pot as soon after making the pot as possible so the slip and the pot shrink together. Stains, opacifiers, colouring oxides and carbonates can be added to slips. If you are using a white or light coloured clay then using the same claybody to make the slip is ideal as the pot and slip will have the same shrinkage rate.
  8. If it has Amber you don't want to use paperclay. You have to fire paperclay for it to be strong and that would melt or destroy the amber
  9. if you plan to make a number of them with the same diameter hole, consider making some pointed cones for them to sit on. that way, you know exactly what size to make them and taper them to avoid glaze runs.
  10. How do you glaze "Totem" pieces so the glaze doesn't get on the kiln shelf during firing? For example, if I apply glaze close to the edge (of the post opening) of a ball or tube shape I am afraid it will run onto the kiln shelf. Is there a special stilt that needs to be used?
  11. To answer your question I like that fix and believe it is fairly successful. Mixing an overly thick clay rich slip using Darvan or equivalent and then taking a portion of that slip flocculating with Epsom salt solution to a creamy sticky thick texture works reasonably well as a clay glue and filler. We keep some mixed all the time and flocculate portions for repairs as needed. Again the item of primary importance is limiting shrinkage and final density of the repair so whatever you fill the crack with, adequately compressing it into the void is almost always helpful. in many construction practices we compress things (Road beds, Gravel, Clay bases) to remove water and tighten the structure, clay is not a bunch different in this respect in my experience.
  12. I am wanting to repair a sculpture that I cannot retire due to inclusion of amber in the work. Will paperclay permanently adhere to the break (need to add a replacement portion to a bird beak)? Would ultimately have this look as a kintsugi repair, but want a more earth friendly repair than epoxy build-up. Any helpful ideas welcomed!
  13. We just recently redid the walkway to our front door. Used to be exposed aggregate concrete and we were going to put in pavers then found outdoor porcelain tiles that look like stone. The ones we got are 2cm thick, (also available in 3 cm thick) if they are installed on a solid base they can be used as a driveway, they can also be installed on a gravel and sand base without mortar. They come in both a rough finish and smooth. The ones we chose are 2' square, non slip rough finish, they don't stain, change colour, grow algae, get damaged with winter salt and they are supposed to be stronger than flagstone of an equal thickness. They are more expensive than other options though, we paid 25- per 2'x2' tile.
  14. adding printers blankets to your slab work might help. they are sturdy, stiff enough to allow movement of large slabs with a little support underneath and easy to clean. my knife or needle tool is not sharp enough to cut the fabric side when i work. and they do not hold as much dust as canvas.
  15. concrete has the added benefit of being less slippery which might prevent falls.
  16. The thing about a belief is that you hold to it whether it's convenient, cost effective or not. If you believe in recycling as a principle, then you do it consistently. There isn't any doubt or room for discussion that we live in a throw away society. It's that mindset that would have to change. I can chose not to participate.
  17. Ordered the slab roller machine, DRD2, and I'm sourcing the materials for the tables construction. Question on the table holding the machine. Is that one contiguous piece of plywood with the machine mounting on top? Bailey build instructions show a 45 degree miter on the table top being fed by the roller. If your setup is built that way, it would have to be 2 separate pieces. Also, the Bailey instructions call for an immediate rise of 1" on the fed side. So the finished slab side is 1" higher than the feed side. Is your's set up differently?
  18. jeff, yes, you can DO anything. sometimes things you try work and other times it does not. that is how we learn. you are at that stage in becoming a good potter where every piece is precious to you. it is very hard to realize that each unexpected thing is a way to improve your skills by working through the new problem. it is difficult to realize that the piece in your hand might not make it to the finish line. but it is. after all, only clay and if you could do it once you can do it again. by the time you have made 6 of them, the first will only be an experiment and the last something to treasure. one thing you might want to do is learn more about your clay. if you take a piece of dried scrap bigger than one inch square and quickly dip it into clean water to wet it, then scrape it with a sharp tool, you will see how little effect the water has on the bone dry clay. do it repeatedly so you can gauge the amount of water it takes for the clay to fail. once you know this, you will be able to judge what will work and what will not.
  19. Hi all - Many thanks for your suggestions. I am concerned about the integrity of the joint and not just the cosmetics and may opt for the paper clay or spooze (had to look that one up). Just curious - couldn't I mix up some defloculated slip and epsom salts and then push that into the crack? - Jeff
  20. With Etsy’s new policy of any item over $35 shipping for free it is nearly impossible to make a profit on larger items. I cannot sent a large bowl in a large box properly padded for free. Working the cost into your sales price does not always work as well if you are looking for more salable price points and taking into consideration the ever increasing fees on Etsy. I would look into local artist collectives, boutique shops and pop up shop collectives for outlets to sell your work. In 10 years on Etsy, I have sold the same amount as I would at one good art show or pop up shop. Selling your wares to shops would require your pendants to be on a chain or cord so they would be instantly wearable, but that would not take much to achieve. You would need to consider the highest price point you would think they could sell at, because the shops buying ‘wholesale’ from you would only want to pay ‘keystone’, or half of the retail price. You mentioned selling pendants at $10. I don’t think it would be too hard to add a necklace cord and make the ‘retail’ price $20 so you actually get the $10 you wanted. It would make you much more to sell larger quantities at once than to try and sell one at a time on line and pay the shipping & packaging cost, etc. This is just my opinion, but I have been making and selling porcelain pendants for 25 years, so I do have experience with this topic in particular.
  21. Sorry for the late reply, This is the book: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0873496035/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have been mixing glazes for quite some time, I would recommend starting on cone 6/10 oxidation glazes, get comfortable with them and then try crystalline!
  22. Firing schedules is what I’m looking for. I will search. Thank you.
  23. I have to sign in every time I want to make a comment. Perhaps because I seldom do so. Having to go to my email to copy and paste a temporary secondary password is ok. Trying to remember what I replied to this website for the questions is difficult, because many of my sites have similar questions and I don't want them all to be the same - in case of breaches. Nancy
  24. Great jousting from everyone on this topic, I have been busy moving my 96 year old into senior living facility. She grew up in the dust bowl area of Kansas, she was 5 years old when the famous black Friday dust storm rolled into town. It was blowing across the US to Washington DC. Just when it hit the capital building the senators were taking a vote on helping farmers with education and funds to rebuild the soil and how to plow to conserve the soil. When it turned black outside the bill passed. Hundreds of people especially children died from breathing the dust, Farmers weren't aware that they way they farmed could contribute to a disaster of such magnitude. We know now and shouldn't ever think that what we do personally can't affect the earth. Denice
  25. Can you define what you mean by details? Are you looking for firing schedules? If you do a search here on the forum you can find a lot of information on firing schedules.
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