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  1. Today
  2. I think the thing is logs help memorialize and simplify rate math for folks actually. For gas kilns ya gotta be there so why not. For group or school use a shared learning tool. For electric kilns, likely a troubleshooting tool for unknown previously assumed rates. Amazing how many folks think their marginally powered marginally insulated electric kiln can go 250 degrees per hour at top end cone six. If it’s a learning tool I am all for it, manual or digital. What one learns from a log though varies greatly with most viewing it as a roadmap of sorts. Some go on to gain a deeper understanding.
  3. Electric kilns actually keep track of all of this automagically these days. No need for a kiln log if the kiln logs it for you. If this kind of stuff was important to me on an electric kiln, I would just spend the 300 bucks to get the new(?) Genesis controller, no phone needed.
  4. I have about 10 kiln logs in studio-most for the gas car kiln some for the salt kiln and some for the small updraft gas kiln-one on a clipboard on the wall near the electric as well. What I'm wondering is why I need to use this app. The books have worked well since 1972. Maybe so I can spend more screen time is all I come up with.I am far from married to a phone as its just a tool like a screw driver and spends lots of time in the box with the other tools. We have an older general electric toaster from the 50s and I have never considered keeping a log on it. Its the old cloth cord (heave
  5. Yesterday
  6. I would spary bottle the crack with a mister and drop a little water with an ear syringe. I would forgo the pins 1st try and forget the clamps as seen in that vedio just hold the brick in place with finger presure a few mintues and it will set right up. I did this on a front loader a few years ago for friends -alot of fixing as it fell over off forklift when new on a small island in the pacific . The door was full of elements as well. Lot of fixing. Still works fine
  7. Most gas kilns will soda fire once you adjust the vents / flue. I have a wood train kiln that I'm able to salt fire. The down side is that the salt eats the bricks. Every kiln takes a different amount of salt to get a good coating. Once you get used to the kiln just about all the loads will take the same amount of salt.
  8. Neil’s got a nice idea in that injecting some very thinned cement might actually be less risk. Maybe inject or spray a little water into the crack first and inject your thinned cement. A small syringe could work great. Everything should wipe nice and clean with a damp sponge at the ready to wipe off excess / drips. Careful with the clamping, very gentle.
  9. Ha! I would have fired that student! Thanks to all for the information generously offered.
  10. Also hit the pottery supply place and picked up another half ton of porcelain... Yes... Another stoneware potter caught the porcelain bug... Could be worse I suppose, but I finally found a porcelain that I love. CKK6 from Seattle Pottery Supply, great stuff if anyone in the Seattle area has been looking for a good throwing porcelain. Not translucent or anything but glaze looks fantastic on it and it doesn't turn to a puddle when you're throwing.
  11. I had a great time last weekend glazing a full 8 piece dinnerware set. Opened the kiln a few days later to crawling on 75% of it. I had a feeling something awful would happen when I saw a few cracks in the glaze; smoothed the cracks in and fired anyway. So this weekend I'm throwing another 8 piece dinnerware set and defloccing the glaze this time.
  12. Bench is covered with orders for shipping out. mailbox (extra large box) is full with 5 boxes going out today. Packing UpS boxes today going to Colorada-Washinton and Arizona states also SF in Ca.. Made deliveries yesterday to 4 Organic super markets. another bisque on Sunday and glaze on Monday-business is off the charts for pre xmas I can feel already that I will get redlined on shipping this fall and may have to slow or shut it down so I can get work done. I knew this business was recession proof now I know its pandamic proof as well.You just have to get your stuf
  13. I have not removed the broken piece at all yet, figuring the brick is brittle, and any moving around I do will make it worse. From what I can gather from all the helpful posts, I won't fully remove the piece, will vacuum it as best I can (there seems to be very little in the way of crumbs/dust), then use a small paintbrush to wet the two surfaces as best I can, and pour the thinned cement into the crack. My hubby has plenty of scrap wood in his shop that I can maybe fashion a clamp of sorts to hold the brick in place while it dries, with pins. I've ordered the pins and dry cement
  14. Most pugmills will use the pressure of what comes behind to push through the last few inches. If your clay is too wet, or too dry, run again with appropriate additions of either stiff or wet clay. It may take a few runs to get the right consistency. When I was mixing clay for students, I always kept two barrels of clay, one with slaked down slop, and one with clay recently used and thus stiffer. Time and experience with pugging is probably the best solution, but there is little you can do to harm the pug mill as long as you only put clay into it. . . .Unlike a student who wondered if it would
  15. If I do not have several tons of glaze materials I'm running low. These frits where set aside from those as I do not use or even like frits. My temp range for firing does not tolerate the low melt points of frits. So I put them in a very odd space and am looking thru those places-I gave away most of this guys materials and it could have gotten mixed into that give away. My assistant and i recall keeping it out of the give away as I gave some to members here on this four and what was left was in a box after the give away to some schools.Its driving me nuts but really its pretty common problem h
  16. @Dottie, not that you have much free time to read, but here is my recent blog sharing a similar story. I developed a pinholing problem last winter, and had to figure out where it was coming from, and how to fix it, all with a deadline looming. It was not fun. But my point is, we've all been there and understand what you’re going through. https://www.goodelephant.com/blog/there-are-times-when-pottery-is-not-fun
  17. One more question to add to the ones Tom asked, are you using cones? The blisters could be blebs from overfiring the clay, pictures would help. Welcome to the forum.
  18. (you mighty find somewhat else whilst looking!) :O
  19. Thanks so much. These things are not covered in the operators manual...
  20. Hi Zoe! Could you post pictures - glazed pieces before and after firing? What clay(s) are you using, at what temps? Did the problem(s) onset match up with opening a new/different package of glaze? If so, do you have any of prior/good glaze left to compare with? What brand of glaze (if you're comfortable sharing that...)? Could there be any other factors, e.g., are you working with same clay as before problem? Firing same? Your process same? Is the problem isolated to the one glaze, iow, are you having same/good results with your other glazes?
  21. Dottie Problems crop up in ceramics all the time its part of the whole process. Just when you think you have the tiger by the tail you can get bit. On a much larger scale I was firing 35 cubic foot car kiln loads of funtioinal wares in the 80s. The clay was from Laguna Clay co. (by the way I'm still firing 35 cubic foot kiln loads) A few whole loads started to bloat. They said to bisque hotter and it was not their issue it was mine .No way could it be the clay-which was porcelain. Next glaze fire bloated I took the whole 35 cubic foot load and put it in Three larg
  22. My observation on my pugmill is that it needs to be very full to work correctly. The best way to recycle clay is to mix scraps much wetter than you can work. I collect scraps in clay bags and add enough water to get the desired softness. Very soft. Then let the soft clay age for a least a couple of months. Getting all the air pockets out can be work in my pug mill as it holds more than 40 lbs. I use an inch and a half delrin rod to push the clay into the corners. The delrin is the best material I have found as it neither splinters nor mars the aluminum. The result is the best th
  23. OK I have really looked hard and have yet to find a box of Frits. Its a sign of the times that I have to much stuff in ceramics.-I have a list of those supplies and I'm going to find that to see if 4124 is on it. If its not I'll give it up-if it is I'll keep digging
  24. This might be the first ceramics book I ever bought. It's probably in a more recent edition by now. It has the most detail on Thrixotropic clay of any book in my collection
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