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  2. hi all, i'm writing to share infos about my homemade arduino gas kiln controller. I have an homemade 350 liters downdraft gas kiln with 2 venturi burners (using lpg), the controller setup is an aurduino, a stepper motor for controlling precision valve a type k temperature sensor a sdcard for datalogging and a diplay for realtime infos. this is a basic setup, i will add oxygen probe for reduction and a wifi module for remote monitoring. the controller works very well at the moment arrived at 1100 celsius degrees with several ramps with a real temperature error of maximum 6 celsius degrees on the ideal ramps temperature. the code now is a quick and dirty version but it works, i can share it if you want. what do you think about. (sorry for my english!) stepper motor actuator gas valve
  3. Yes, you can thin it down. It may be insufficiently stirred. I find the best way to "stir" slip, is to pour it from bucket to bucket at least 6 times.
  4. Ahh yes, thanks. Hopefully the schedule we gave her is simple enough to program and it looks like she has solved her over-firing issue and can now experiment.
  5. @Bill Kielb they're not overlaps, they're 3 different firings
  6. Nice work! This probably becomes much easier if you measure the draft in the firebox.
  7. Full list of my tests in case they help anyone in future. I have removed all but two hard bricks on the bagwall at the middle and back of flame trench and left the deflectors in place. All tests are with original chimney height unless noted otherwise. I'm going to do another bisque soon with the setup I've retested a few times which gets to highest temp. Damper full open, 2 brick bagwall Starting temp 100 - 5 mins @ 0.5 bar Original End temp 343 Block chimney opening by 3" X 4.5" (24" long) End temp 366 Block chimney opening by 6" x 4.5" (24" long) End temp 386 Block chimney opening by 6" x 4.5" (24" long) Decrease chimney height by 2 courses End temp 358 Block chimney opening by 6" x 4.5" (24" long). One brick bagwall End temp 363 Retest - Block chimney opening by 6" x 4.5" (24" long) End temp 394 Block chimney opening by 6" x 4.5" (24" long) increase chimney height by 2 courses End temp 348 Retest end temp 383 Retest - Block chimney opening by 6" x 4.5" (24" long) End temp 396
  8. I think this comes down to aesthetics, not about being silly or being paranoid. I don’t like leaving an unglazed ring on the plate part for the lid to sit on, especially when I use a dark glaze on my white clay, it just looks wrong. Yes it takes more kiln space to fire them separately but for me it’s necessary to get the look I want. I use my slab roller and scrap clay to make the wasters, really doesn’t take much effort. If it looks okay for your style of work then great fire them together, if not then the wasters are a solution to warping lids fired on their rims.
  9. This. Seems silly to go through all this extra trouble when you can fire them together and avoid all of these problems entirely. You have to leave the portion making contact with the donut unglazed anyway, might as well fire it on the actual part. Could even suspend it with wadding if you're really paranoid.
  10. Why not leave the gallery unglazed-problem msoved -fire them together like most butterdishes-ytake up 1/2 the space always warp together .No issues-if you have to leave the lid a little unglazed inside no big deal
  11. I think you can either raise the amperage capacity of the relay or raise the cooling to compensate. The higher the amperage being put through it, the hotter it gets, so if it's a 30 amp ssr, and you're putting 30 amps through it, you need to have very active cooling. This means fans and heat sink. If you get an 80 amp ssr, and put 30 amps through it, you may be able to get by with passive.cooling Hope that makes sense...when I was shopping around for SSRs I would see one that says 50 amp, but when looking at the specs it was 50 amps at 25 celsius, which could only exist under ideal circumstances with active cooling.
  12. I started in 1976 with a Brent model C-still have it in use today.
  13. Hi Ron, fwiw, I prefer to make (curved lids - flat is different!) lids upside down as well (off the hump for smalls, one at a time for largers), and fire them in set in the gallery or on the shelf, no problems out of round either way (yet). From there, I'll pull and stick a handle, or throw a knob (usually hollow) and stick that. For a small knob, I'll leave a thicker base and just turn it. Other problems, yes, oops, broke it, a bit too small, bit too big, don't like the profile, don't like the knob, etc. ...which is why I try to follow Bill Van Gilder's advice and always make extra lids and at standard sizes. Will have to move boxes of extra lids to storage soon, else target practice? So, I'm curious what solves the problem for you - doesn't look (to me) that those lids are so big and heavy that they can't drag evenly as they shrink and end up round. Nice shape, btw.
  14. If not big producr of scraps, factor it in to your daily potting schedule. Couple of plaster slabs, couple of buckets. A nice way to get the feel of your clay. Less dependence on going down the shop and buying more. Many posts hete on recycling clay. Have a search
  15. Could use these with the heat sink and mount so the heat sink is outside the control box but they are not a double pole relay.
  16. Go for it! You need to be able to cool them, actively. That means using a fan. If your control box is mounted to the kiln, the interior of the control box is too hot for passive cooling. At least on my kiln. I was thinking about using them but measured my control box at cone 6 and it was a balmy 120 degrees, which would not be ideal for passive cooling (heat sink). To me, adding solid state relays, heat sinks and fans was just adding 3 more points of failure, but done correctly I'm sure they would do really well. I just don't trust myself with that
  17. Kicking around the idea of getting rid of the sitter and build in a Genesis 3 zone controller on my Skutt kiln. Looking into solid state relays for a longer relay life span and less issues. Anyone run these on there kiln? I know they cost 3 -4 times as much but if they last it would be worth it. Looking at maybe using there for each zone.
  18. Once it dries it's done. You can turn it back into sodium Silicate by boiling it in lye, but I highly discourage doing that. Very unsafe!
  19. I was afraid of that. Thank you for your help I appreciate it!
  20. The butter is packed into the bottom and is glazed inside and out except the under side. The top is thrown upside down like a bowl then trimmed and a knob added, It is glazed except for the bottom edge so it can sit on the shelf. I could add a thicker rolled rim on the edge but it is not the look I am trying for.
  21. Time to toss it out. I don't know what you use yours for but mostly I use mine for making magic water. When I get a new jar of sodium silicate I mix up a few gallons of magic water and have found it keeps fine for years, unlike the jar of sodium silicate.
  22. Your English is just fine, I was trying to avoid words that might be difficult to translate. You can read about body bloating here, this is an excellent website with a huge amount of information on many ceramic subjects. Page 166 from "The Ceramic Process" which is available here as a preview also mentions body bloating. Lastly, there is a really good thread on firing high manganese clay here. For the bubbles and blisters search those terms in this forum and also on the first one I linked to above.
  23. How wide a span across the base between the foot ring and is it a flat base or rounded? It could have slumped if unsupported for too wide an area. Slumping could be from too wide a span again plus the thinner base. Is the crack sharp on the edges or smoothed over? Have you used cones to verify what you reach? Going by temperature alone isn't measuring heatwork. Physics is different with bowls than with a wide footed platter although rims of thinly thrown bowls can definitely deform if one side is close to an element, porcelain especially. If you can build a wall around the outside of the platter with square or triangular posts lying on their sides or even short small pots it will help avoid the rims firing hotter than the middle of the kiln shelf. Also, don't fire platters on the bottom shelf of the kiln, unless you have a floor element, nor on the very top shelf. If you post a picture of the platters it could help with more clues as to the cause. Welcome to the forum
  24. Rough drawing of wheel puller problem with the slant-sided wheel head. the jaw hit the top and won't grip the bottom. Argh!
  25. Will do. Have been occupied lately with trying to get off the wheel head so i can clean the splash pan and maybe grease the bearings underneath (?) Followed all the advice so far on another thread on the forum. Sprayed with WD 40, sprayed with penetrating oil. Waited overnight. Heated. Got a wheel puller from automotive friend. Neither my husband nor I are experienced with wheel pullers. We are having trouble getting it to grab the bottom of the wheel. Because the side of the wheel slant in, the jaws won't grab the bottom of the wheel to pull. Have tried two sizes with no luck. I know the wheel has had no action for many years and don't know if it's a hopeless situation at this point.
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