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  1. Today
  2. I signed up for the ClayFlicks membership - free trial then a month's paid subscription, but I've been trying to cancel now and have heard nothing back. Emailed & sent the form in from the webpage. I can't make a phone call as I'm in the UK. Has anyone else had problems with this? Any ideas? Otherwise I'm going to have to ask my bank to block further payments. Thanks!
  3. Lhs 2nd and 3rd elements down look a bit vulnerable. See what you mean by hard brick channels. How do you manage to chisel them clean....dont get them contaminated in first place I guess.
  4. You should be able to get that kiln to reduce throughout. They're great kilns once you get the setting dialed in. You need to make sure there's back pressure out both spy holes during reduction. One will have a lot, the other just a puff. If you've got back pressure out both, then you know the atmosphere is the same throughout the kiln. You have to find the balance between the damper, gas and air to create the degree of pressure and reduction. If you're not getting back pressure out the bottom spy, then you need to close the damper some or increase the air and gas.
  5. If they're seated well at the corners they shouldn't flop out.
  6. If they're seated well at the corners they shouldn't flop out.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Yep, it's a requirement, when having students use resist, if I don't want to continually buy new brushes. This is doubly true, with latex resist!
  9. Place, white triangular ceramic pins into brick above the element. Tried to post pic but not small emough.... The elements will expand and if not contained will spew out again. Experience talking here. I'll get to my comp. And shrink photo
  10. Nephysy 50 Calcite 50 Ball clay 50 Red iron oxide10 Best cone 8 ish dull at c10
  11. Way too cryptic Hulk:-) can you expand this for old woman here.
  12. I used to use Portland cement as a glaze. It mimics a runny ash glaze at c10. Ive also experimented with andesite... a rock found in our arroyos that when crushed and a minute amount of gerstly borate is added created a wonderful gold orange glaze at c10 . Its fun to experiment.
  13. I know this is an old convo, but if anyone is listening I'd like to pose a few questions about the HF 24 Alpine posted by jrgpots, and welcome input with anyone who has experience with the older model HF 24 Alpines. Firstly, how's it going with this kiln? Have you got it firing? I ask because I have the exact same kiln, in excellent working condition. Specifically, I'd love to know what size shelves you use for stacking the kiln, and what luck you've had with your firings in reduction? Are you using (2) 14" x 28" shelves, making the overall size 28 x 28 or are you using (2) 11 x 28's making the overall size 22" x 28"? I'm asking because I fire to Cone 10 myself with the exact same kiln, and prefer to reduce my work, but find that the Alpine almost always fires the bottom half or third of the load in oxidation, and the top in reduction. For years I didn't mind because I was doing a lot of temoku which oxidizes really well, but now I'm working mainly in Shino and I'm trying to think of ways to gain control of the reduction and make it even throughout the kiln, without causing a lot of carbon trapping. Any ideas?
  14. Thank you everyone!! I really appreciate your feedback! I think I'm going to change to a cone 6 situation to keep my elements happy longer, but I need to do at least one or two cone 10 firings first as all the work I have drying is cone 10 clay... but seems like it won't be too much of a problem. C. Banks, the thought of digging up your own clay sounds amazing! What an awesome experience... would love to be able to do that one day!
  15. I am about to embark on some handbuilding exercises after completing a recent workshop. One of the styles requires a white slip atop a clay of choice. I would take any advice for the best clays for handbuilding, and then also the best white slip recipe for it to match. I have some Laguna WC608 clay at the house which I will use to start. I know that matching 'shrinkage' for clay and slip is an important characteristic and the WC608 has a 10.9% percentage (http://www.lagunaclay.com/clays/northeastern/wc608.php). Can anyone offer advice or other suggestions for these combinations? Thanks in advance.
  16. Ya know while it is possible to drive generic traffic to sites I think really most potters that sell much through their websites probably are out in front of customers all the time and the website becomes an extension. In the old days repeat customers would pick up the phone but these days drop by the site. Facebook pushes of kiln openings and new pots. Show customers picking up cards. They know the potter and the pottery already.
  17. Yeah I am just going to go back to the slab roller and work on making that process smoother. Besides there's not any more room in my studio anyway :-)
  18. For a chimney the lower rated bricks should work fine. Worst case, they will shrink a bit over time and need to be tightened up.
  19. The pitting doesn't hurt anything, and powder coating will wear off.
  20. Yes I can say that my peter pugger is pitted as well inside.The outside is powder coated. I have been to the factory and they suggrested if the pitting bothers me they can sandblast iot smooth.It will pit again overtime.They also said do not powder coat the inside as it will wear off and get into the clay.Clay is abrasive and you do want pieces of coating in your clay. I decieded the pitting does not hurt a thing and am living with it . When the day comes and the barre lwears thru (I may die 1st) then a new barrel is in order.I would not powder coat the inside..
  21. btw, Leach credits his source for that/similar translation: "...a more or less condensed and paraphrased extract from an essay on popular, or folk, arts and crafts by Soetsu Yanagi…"
  22. Magnetite should be fine, it is iron oxide and not a metal. You can use pretty much anything to make glaze, that doesn't mean it will be good or safe though. Clays, bedrock, limestone, granite, ash, etc will all turn into a glaze in the kiln, but it's hard to calculate or predict what will happen because you don't have an assay for them.
  23. I have been using an aluminum barreled Bluebird pug mill for many years. I understand that the aluminum can have a chemical reaction to porcelaneous clays, also, the barrel has become pitted. I am considering having the barrel powder-coated to solve both of these issues. Does anyone have experience with powder-coating aluminum pug mill barrels? Are there potential problems I should be aware of? My biggest concern is the possibility of coating material wearing off and contaminating the clay.
  24. I've recently come upon a video demonstrating that you can make your own whiting or calcium carbonate by bisque firing egg shells. I've tried this myself and now have a jar of fine white powder which I am keen to test in a predominantly whiting glaze recipe. I love the thought that I can make an attractive glaze out of materials that I can gather myself! I was wondering if any of you have any nifty ways that one could make their own glaze materials for cheap or by recycling household leftovers (Perhaps even materials that can be dug from the ground and refined). Bonus side question: Does anyone have any simple glaze recipes between cone 6 and 10 that use whiting and not much else? Bonus Bonus side question: I have also found very small particulates of alluvial gold (may also be pyrite) as well as a small amount of magnetite, any ideas for these? I was thinking of mixing the magnetite into a clay body to get a speckled appearance but am worried about the suitability of magnetite when a functional piece is placed into a microwave.
  25. Min- The link for the pdf from Frank Gaydos doesn’t work. Is something missing? Edit: never mind. My problem. I copied too much information because I didn’t see the hot link on my phone. Apologies to all. Regards, Fred
  26. Hi folks, I have a small electric kiln that I have converted to gas. I am rebuilding the chimney and am curious what temperature rating bricks can be used for the upper layers of the chimney. I plan to have 2-3 courses of soft firebrick rated for 2350 degrees at the bottom connected to the flue opening, but I was wondering if I could use bricks rated at 2000 F for the rest of the chimney. That's the best I can find locally. Kevin
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