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  2. Thanks so much for these helpful responses! I do realize that there is some range in both the bisque and glaze firings, I was just trying to get a general understanding of the differences between the different types of clay. I have done some research and am feeling much more informed. It looks like there are a lot of other conversations on this forum to will be helpful too. Glad I joined!
  3. If it’s pooling and pinholing in the centre, refiring is likely to make it worse. The fluidity here makes me think that it will at least start to melt at bisque temperatures, but a partially melted glaze is going to be even worse than the existing situation. So I don’t think adding clear glaze is going to help. Since you’ve sold it already, you have a couple of options. 1) Refund your customer and apologize. 2) Explain there’s been technical difficulties without giving too much detail, ask your customer for patience, and remake it for them. If you’re thinking of working more professi
  4. I sent you a pM On output I used to think about 350$ a day minimum -throw that amount -finish that amount in same day. Now I do not think about such things as I can do more or less than that whenever I choose. Since its xmas the production often is more.In mid winter its less. I shift to the demand. Two days ago it was 120$ larger bowls and pie plates (12) and some slab square plates and oval platers in a day.That day was way over that 350 mark. Mix in say 30 sponge holders and smalls for kiln stuffers and you can see its more than just mugs We produce on average at least
  5. Easy suggestion for a QoTW following last weeks question of the week; would you give up any of the technology you use in ceramics now and go back to a simpler not as technology advanced method? Maybe starting with defining the term technology as it pertains to ceramics making.
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  7. If you aren't glazing it then no it isn't necessary to re bisque fire. If you are glazing the iron can smudge if not bisqued on first. Do a test tile at the same time, try a heavy dark application, a medium one and a light one, try one coat and two or three, see what happens. If you glaze over an iron wash or apply the wash over a glaze if there is a high amount of calcium in the glaze the iron will tend to "bleach" out and go a straw colour.
  8. Hey, Julie...Here is what happened to a couple of my little flowerpot gremlins...the one on the right has 3 coats RIO on ^04 bisque fired to ^06. The RIO was just a tad chalky. So I thought it would be a good idea to put a clear glaze (3 coats) and refire to ^06. The result was the mottled yellow and black one on the left. I have done RIO and fired to ^10 and the result without clear was a semi-metallic gun metal gray color that was permanent. Something to consider...
  9. I fall in the more expensive mug category (and isn’t it funny that we all seem to measure so much around mugs?). First, I don’t wedge for mugs. The amount of clay is too small, and the particle business gets sorted out in the coning. I do wedge for 2 lbs or greater. I weigh out for the week’s production list, which isn’t done all in one sitting, usually on a Monday. That takes maybe an hour, hour and a half. Throwing mugs is at a rate of 2 1/2 minutes each, so about 24-25 mugs an hour. Some forms are a bit faster if they don’t require a lot of shaping. In a given week I can comfortably a
  10. Than you so much everyone! I do not have a photo: smashed the vessel long ago. But I am about to start again, so I´ll post if it ever happens! In the meantime I have used commercial underglazes and transparent glaze coat. Not my favourite, but it works, sometimes. But now I though I would check if these underglazes can be applied majolica style (if I dilute them first). I guess these all are safe? Much testing will follow:)
  11. Thank you Magnolia Mud! I assume that my applications are too light and that is why they burnt off before. I will go for another application and then, should I run it through a second bisque before a glaze firing?
  12. Hi @grumpykidstudio , I swapped it out for a Bartlett V6 controller from Pottery Supply House / Euclids. They had a used one that I got a bit of a discount on. I use it as a bisque only kiln since the elements are such a pain to replace in this kiln (non segmented) and use 2 thermocouples. The board fit without having to alter the box. The original controller had very limited options and I was using it for glaze firing originally but after a little while a lot of the readout was illegible as parts of the numbers and letters blanked out and it had some stuck pads. I'ld contact Tuckers, send the
  13. Your point on removing as much as possible of the sealant first definitively seems to make sense. I was surprised to find out that the sealant was rather easy to brush off with sandpaper, that is it doesn't go that deep into the clay as I expected. A few of the pieces have such a small opening that brushing etc. on the inside is impossible though. It's really no tragedy if I have to throw them away (or remove the glaze and apply sealant to the outside as well, and skip the glaze fire), but your answers are really helpful!
  14. I'm not planning on glazing any of the sealed surfaces, but I already applied glaze to these objects on on one side (and sealant on the inside). I made two small soap dishes to which I also applied sealant on one side, and I actually managed to remove almost all sealant from one of them by polishing with sandpaper. Think I'm taking this one to the glaze fire. As for the other soap dish, I could concider using this as a test.. Would be interesting to know what would happen.. If I only had my own kiln there would have been less things to worry about.
  15. Maybe time to design that kiln catholic protection system or maybe spray the backsides of all the bands with cold galvanizing zinc spray every five years.
  16. I would probably attempt to un sell it Just me though. If I think it can be functional, I just won’t sell it and make another that is better.
  17. It totally depends on how one makes a living as a potter. A production potter who sells mugs for $26 and glazes them with a single or double dip and makes their money on volume is going to produce very differently than a potter who makes highly decorated mugs that sell for $65. I can throw 25 mugs in an hour, and trim them just as quickly, but it takes me 5 hours to decorate that many with underglazes. One of my friends always says 'Making lots of pots is easy. Selling lots of pots is the hard part'.
  18. I’ll just add, Marcia (My Marcia) made a ball (of clay) with Kanthal spikes sticking out in all directions. . She could bend those wires and hang a boatload of earrings off that thing. Pretty cool idea for tiny stuff.
  19. I will change that to say 4-10 hours which is generally accurate. Glaze firing is typically done 400- 570 degrees per hour and bisque in the 200 degree per hour range. The point I was trying to make is for bisque time at temperature is essential and as a result generally needs to be longer than the glaze firing. . An explanation of how to successfully cone fire is a whole other discussion about heatwork and where fluxes begin to help things melt.
  20. if the pinholes are small and not too many, leave it alone. sometimes you make pots and sometimes you make art. save this so you can remind yourself you are an artist.
  21. Yeah, somethin' like that! Everything requires testing, and, as necessary, adjustment. Some folk bisque a bit lower, as they want more porosity for applying glaze, whilst others may bisque a bit higher. For the clays I'm using, hitting a solid 04 is working well for me - I do like having a big longer "window" for glazing, for I'm still onna steepish learning curve, just over three years in. Per prior, I'm having better luck for glaze fire at solid 5, down from pushing cone 6 all the over - too hot. Expect to test, then adjust as necessary. If you haven't yet found Tony Hans
  22. yes, fire to cone 6 for strength. bill an i hit the forum at the same time, he was faster. reading his post makes me uneasy. if you are a novice, i do not believe you should expect your glaze firing to cone 6 to be complete in only 4 to 8 hours. the time depends on a lot of factors you have no control over. i mention this because lately there have been several posts from people who thought their work was finished after a very short time and they were either turning off the kiln or wondering what was wrong. they had unrealistic expectations from some source they believed. you m
  23. Basically yes. the general clays available would be lowfire, cone 04 range, mid fire cone 5-7, high fire, cone 10 ish. Porcelain is clay and you can get midfire and high fire formulations. In general, It is still just clay though. The geology of the earth is cone 10 basically, so clays are generally formulated or selected to fire lower for midfire or low fire. This is a very general statement that explains why cone 10 is a thing on earth. Bisque firing is intended to burn out organics and chemically bound water to make the ware sturdy and easy to decorate while leaving the cla
  24. Hey @Min! I am wondering what did you end up doing with the controller? I just got my hands on a very old Orto Controller on a Cone Art kiln and would LOVE some guidance!!
  25. looks like a lesson well learned so throw them out and start again doing everything correctly. what instruction have you had in any form?
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