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  2. Maybe really compress lips as Pres suggested. Looks like you have two sharp ridges to your rims...are the rims chipping on the pots with this design of rim? If so maybe focus n compressing to a rounded top to rim. Worth a try.
  3. I would call Axner. Nice folks last time I visited them.
  4. Bill, I would love your spreadsheet logs. I don't want to hijack this thread any more than this. Jed
  5. I dated some pots in the 70s and 80s. When customers returned with them for replacements it fun to see when I made it. I stopped dating pots 30 years ago at least.
  6. For me I make a new signature stamp every year so it's pretty easy for me to know how old it is.
  7. no dates, Not sure why but a date that is not recent just seems old. Have carted s few pots for multiple shows and then the right owner disovers it and bam, the best pot in the display. A date will take the shine off, a date makes it seem like an unsold lesser pot when really it just needed to be discovered by someone who was jazzed by it.
  8. Potters web also has used stuff-looks like they just redid the website as well
  9. Yes, wood ash could be used. Trees pull calcium and potassium from the soil, and often other alkaline. Cannot advise you on how much to use because the amount of alkaline is directly related to the soil it grows in. Good place to start would be 2-3% because of the weight differential between ash and minerals (Nep Sy)
  10. Thanks. Could wood ash be used to make the clay more alkaline?
  11. Thanks, guys - Mark, great idea on facebook marketplace, I had started looking on craigslist but hadn't considered facebook marketplace! and Oldlady - my next request was going to be local supply stores! I'm really going to miss the world class Clay Art Center up in Tacoma, searching on google maps I can't find a thing, going to ask the wisdom of the forum for supply stores.
  12. Your processing technique is good: enjoy the journey.
  13. neph sy, aka nepheline syenite - it's mostly silica and alumina, with significant amounts of sodium and potassium as well. All four are important components of clay and glaze, depending. https://digitalfire.com/material/nepheline+syenite
  14. Nepheline syenite, a feldspathic stone. It's higher in sodium than potassium so it's considered a soda feldspar*.
  15. Thank you Tom. Excuse my ignorance, as I’m new to this, but what is Nep Sy?
  16. you might contact a local ceramic supply house to ask about shared kiln usage in the area. there are studios normally filled with classes that may be seeing a very slow time with covid. maybe you can work something out there.
  17. Interesting. In 28 years of making pots I've never greased the bearings on an electric wheel. They're usually sealed and need no lubrication. If there is a way to grease it, then I would expect there to be a grease fitting somewhere on the bearing block.
  18. You are dealing with a property called "cementing." This property is created by higher iron and alumina content which creates strong positive charges that "cement" particles together. It can be further compounded by the acidity of the clay. Without going down the clay chemistry rabbit hole: perhaps simple math. Negative charge = plasticity. Positive charge = cementing. In addition: alkalinity = deflocculation= plasticity. Acidity = flocculation= cementing. Cementing can be better understood as tight compaction/adhesion of adjoining clay particles. The solution requires more than just adding p
  19. Yesterday
  20. I have an Axner electric wheel. It's 15 years old, but I've only really used it in the last 2 months. It began making a whirring noise today. Followed troubleshooting guide that came with model and discerned that when wheel is on and in neutral, if I turn it by hand there is no noise. Troubleshooting guide suggests greasing bearings but provides no guidance on how to do this. Can anyone point me to a video or instructions?
  21. Just install the gauge so it always measures the pressure to the burners which should be downstream of All valves and regulators. Then you should be able to Confirm you have the energy available and learn how to fire by pressure. We have plenty of ready made free spreadsheet logs we can share as well if you eventually have the need.
  22. I guess the only things I don't sign are really small things, like buttons or jewelry. They are far from soulless, just small. I do have a small stamp with my call letters that I can put on really small things. Customers do seem appreciate the attention to detail even on small pieces that I can make quickly. Ornaments, buttons, etc. I work on ways to give those things some special character. Roberta
  23. so i have many test tiles, never had an issue with chipping/shivering. it seems only specific pieces are effected by this. i went back to check a number of lips on mugs and bowls and its either they are completely fine or will chip off when tapped against another.
  24. Thicker won't do it.. Test tiles only way to go
  25. What did Standard say when you let them know about the shivering? Did you give them the lot numbers? Could be that you got some that wasn't mixed properly. Thicker will just make the shivering worse. Shivering can happen with any claybody but is most common with white lowfire bodies and isn't very common with mid and high fire. Advantage of going to a midrange claybody for functional ware is if you choose a clay that has less than 2% absorption then you won't have issues with pots getting hot in the microwave, crazing and weeping from moisture seeping into the clay and they tend to chi
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