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  2. Fingers crossed neither of my kilns have rusted apart from some screws on the hinged area. They're outdoors under cover so I'm sure it's only a matter of time.
  3. Buy 316 stainless screws if you want them to last you get them here. I order a lot of thgings from thios supplier-they are in my state and have great service and quality stuff (no junk) https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/tapping-wood-and-drywall-screws/drive-style~phillips/
  4. Hi Austyn, I have not had a chance to fire up the results yet. Do you use frost porcelain??
  5. Today
  6. The inside of body bands are more prone to rust than the outside, as all the moisture that comes out during firings works through the porous bricks. Some of the rust may also be from non-stainless steel backing plates that are often put behind the body bands where handles and hinges are attached to increase strength in those areas. All but the best stainless screws will also rust where the penetrate the brick. I've removed non-stainless screws that looked like a push pin from rusting out so much, just a screw head and a thin pointy bit.
  7. That was a dumber question than I realized. I’ll just replace the hose with a pipe or a hose and fitting that will fit the regulator...
  8. Hello! I need some specific help with using RIO. I typically use stoneware clay #50 from Laguna and bisque to 06-04 and glaze to cone 5. I have applied RIO to my bisque ware and attempted to fire directly to cone 5 alongside glaze. The result was that the RIO had burnt off completely. So, I need specific steps: Bisque normally, apply RIO, re-bisque? What cone? Apply glaze and fire to full cone temp? Do I need to add flux to the RIO? I read 50/50 RIO and Gerstley Borate was needed to prevent the stain from burning out. Please advise. I cannot find any step by step help!
  9. I have done something similar but with a post in the middle of the wire to prevent sagging. Lin
  10. We have done a fair bit like that although we just put them on stilts turned sideways and stacked. The wires would sag but never enough to touch the shelf and the pendants (in this case) did not slide to the middle thank goodness. These were cone six firings. I did start bending the wire over the far side of the posts to limit the sag a bit but they were just stilts turned sideways so friction was my friend. Your rig looks way better!
  11. Yesterday
  12. @Earthandwater, post a picture of what you are concerned about.
  13. How warm does the pipe get after the increase? Might be good to know. Or how warm was it before and after the increase could prove helpful to others in the future.
  14. Dude thiols and thials are some of the stinkiest compounds known to man, I was experimenting using thiols instead of mercaptans (which are stinky enough on their own) for lustres, and had the local gas utility cruising the neighborhood looking for leaks it was so strong. And we are talking about total volumes of 50ml. Since the sealant above appears to be mostly aromatic petroleum byproducts it shouldn't be too bad, most of that will evaporate within a few days, so I wouldn't expect there to be a fire or too much chlorine left over. But may still be pretty stank.
  15. Although the lemon test is assumed to be the threat it generally is far less so than caustic soaps and hot water. So dishwasher, chemical corrosion (leaching) cutlery, along with daily wear are all difficult to predict without specifically testing for them appropriately. Putting lemon juice or a cut lemon on something is often not really scientifically revealing.
  16. Not sure, it seems like mostly preservative and suspending agent actually when you look up various components, maybe use water as a carrier. The chlorine component strikes me as a concern. Plenty of ventilation for the test is definitely in order. The other thought is it may wash off reasonably with soap, water and some brushing, reducing the amount that needs to be fired away.......... if it does smell awful.
  17. Yes a lemon test will tell you if it's really bad. It won't test if cobalt leaches out though. Here is a photo of what I consider "gone metallic". This is iron, so while it might not be the tastiest surface to eat from, it is harmless to 99.9% of people. When cobalt is over saturated it tends to turn black and crusty. Copper turns black rimmed with red and green, chrome is black and crusty, iron and manganese typically melt into place and turn metallic. They all will show metallic a little bit around the edges when theres way too much oxide. Let's see... Rutile will boil into a
  18. It's gonna be stinky as hell with all of those sulfur based aromatics (anything with thio or thia). But should be fine to bisque again.
  19. Best laid plans of mice and men they say show us an after photo
  20. Right now "testing" a set of jewelry racks I made for glazing earrings and pendants, Will know tomorrow how things turned out...

  21. Here is the latest in advancing my jewelry glazing...Rather than going out and spending a chunk of change on some manufactured jewelry racks, I decided to make my own. Hopefully the wire won't sag and everything stays separated in the kiln which is firing as we speak.
  22. I used bars and adjusted with a feeler gauge to .004. This seamed to work well. Surprising what the difference is if I set it to .008. 1/16 is .0625.
  23. Well after increasing the 2 outlet holes to 5/16 seams to have helped with the issue.
  24. I respectfully disagree. The Sitter was designed to shut off at the proper temp once it has been calibrated. While the Kiln sitter manual says that witness cones are the most accurate method, it specifically says that using witness cones in combination with the Sitter is optional, and only necessary for calibrating the device. And every kiln manual I've ever seen also assumes that the Sitter will be the primary shutoff device. I totally agree, however, that it's not necessarily going to 100% match the fall of a witness cone. But most glazes have a wide enough firing range that the small
  25. @MinI really appreciate all of the info and links! As my high school chemistry teacher used to say, "context matters!" His favorite example - water is fatal if you drink 3 gallons instead of 3 glasses, or put it in your lungs instead of your stomach.
  26. Your stoneware clay likely matures at a particular temp. If fired to a lower temp, it may not be fully fused (vitrified); if fired to a higher temp, it might just look toastier, however, also might weep little drops, fizz/bubble, melt, and/or other bad stuff. I'm going cone five, as a few of the cone 5/6 clays I'm using misbehave if fired much hotter, and the ones that don't mind it are very well fused at cone 5. Some clays are marketed as having a very broad firing range, however, I don't believe.
  27. Per parallel thread (temporal), wouldn't expect kiln vent to prevent any fumes/smell at all. I'm happy with my kiln vent - it's a home made job, definitely pulls hot air from the kiln, hence oxygenated ambient goes in there, being the point, and also most of the wax smoke and other yuck out and away from the studio. My (similarly home made) overhead setup is back online, now featuring a somewhat overkill 400 cfm fan; now I feel comfortable being around the kiln whilst firing - both the waste heat and bit o' smell all wooshed out o' there.
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