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  2. I'm glad your kiln worked out! I don't have a kiln sitter and I'm not really sure how I'd calibrate a thermocouple. Thanks for wishing me luck I need it!
  3. Oh it's gotta be at least 15lbs, I never have filled it all the way up though, I just don't do that many handles at once.
  4. @feistyfieryceramics Hi Caitlin, I fired my kiln for the first time Monday and everything was a success! I decided on skipping the test fire and just loaded it up and did a cone 04 bisque and it worked perfectly. I didn't use witness cones, just my kiln sitter and my extremely helpful thermocouple. I did calibrate my sitter with a guage washer beforehand and it shut off exactly when it was supposed to. I wish you luck with your first firing!
  5. Hi Neil, I am in a similar boat. They are hooking up my three phase electricity for my used kiln right now and I'm wondering what I should do to test it. I was planning to do what you said and test fire empty to cone 6 to make sure the current coils can achieve that temp. Do I also need to test the accuracy of the thermocouple by firing to with cones appropriate bisque and earthenware glaze temp? I've been having trouble getting a full range of cones around here actually! I guess they aren't stocked because people aren't using them so much anymore? I was only able to get 03,04,6, and 7! I
  6. It will turn brown if there's zinc in the glaze, I believe it also needs a sufficient amount of calcium in the glaze as well. Best to look it up on their reference page. Http://masoncolor.com/reference-guide
  7. Today
  8. I’ve been having the same problem when lining lamps, but when I dip the outside of the lamps the next day the glaze resists in the yellow spots. It’s very noticeable after firing.
  9. Denice Hopefully you are finding a top notch hand surgeon. I consulted with one for 1 hour last week near SF for second opinion and she is now my 1st choice on bone removal this winter.I want to rehab this winter. My number one surgeon moved from SF to take over orthopedics in hand surgury teaching at Yale and I would have her do it but flying for me is out now for some time.Find good people it worth it.Check to see how long they have been doing it. The best only operate from the elbow to the finger tips-nothing else .Kansas must have a good one
  10. Today a little production for Saturdays bisque fire Mugs (1 1/4 #ers) and some meduim bowls as well as cereal bowls all porcelain -mugs got finished today as did the cereal bowls ,all trimmed, larger bowls will be trimmed in am tomorrow . The sun is loosing its heat and will not be able to dry pots outside by Halloween -then its cook them and me until xmas inside.
  11. Your processing methods are fine: need to move on from that. Wild clay often have Organics which can add some/or much plasticity. Some are removed during wet processing- normal/desired: the 200 mesh sieve removed the rest. 200 mesh sieve is really not necessary, although I understand the why. Typically 60 or 80 mesh screens are the norm. Remember, the fly ash is only being used to spike alkalinity; not as a body flux. Harvesting wild clay is the roots of modern pottery; much more popular than most realize. There are deposits that can be used straight from the ground and onto the wheel, but unc
  12. I like to experiment with mason stains for some of my pieces that are fired at cone 6. Crimson is one of my favorite colors but I can never count on what color I will get. Perhaps it is the colors it comes in contact with? I have attached two pieces, one using the colors tangerine, praseodymium #6450 and crimson; and the other teal, praseodymium and crimson. Can anyone tell me why the crimson has turned pale brown in the orange/yellow piece, but shows up crimson against the yellow and teal? I'm not a chemist, but from color theory I would have expected the teal to muddy the crimson.
  13. I fired my bisque to cone 06. Glad to hear that I'm not the only one having difficulty with this glaze. Thanks so much for your response. -Rita
  14. Yep! Definitely you can test the pH of it. Make a slurry with distilled water and a dry piece of the mixed clay and test the water. But as glazenerd said, it takes a week or two to develop plasticity so it may continue to react for that period. Perhaps test it a few times over that week.
  15. I assume I could test with Litmus paper to determine if it’s safe and also to see how acidic the other samples are?
  16. What Liam said. Another problem with wood ash is that it’s so variable in composition from batch to batch. Typically anyone using ash in a glaze will create a large batch, or homogenize several smaller ones so that results will be consistent over time. You're already dealing with one variable material in the form of a “wild” clay. I would think it’d be a lot easier to amend with ball clay and neph sye as recommended, at least until you’ve worked with the clay enough to establish what it’s working properties are.
  17. Yesterday
  18. Oh mark this thing isn't tiny lol, it holds about twice as much clay as the 4" northstar. They're pretty nice for a cheap unit. I've really beat the crap out of mine.
  19. Depends on how much acid there is to react with it. If there's a lot of acid you can touch it right away, if there's very little to no acid it'll likely always burn you
  20. I already tried adding ash to a few of my clay chunks. I wedged it in with rubber gloves. How long would it remain caustic before I risk touching it do you think?
  21. There may be lime. It might be worth a test. My process is pretty simple, just dig from about 3-5 feet with a post hole digger, dry the dirt, dump it into a water filled bucket, mix it, sieve it first using a regular kitchen sieve, then fine sieve using a 200 mesh sieve, mix it with a drill mixer, drain water after it settles, pour slurry into a pillow case, and dry it out to workable consistency. I usually let it sit for a few days in a plastic bag before wedging it. Funny thing is, I actually got more plastic clay before I started using the 200 mesh sieve. Maybe someone can explai
  22. I think this is a bit of a red herring, many kilns don't fire evenly, especially older large manual ones. It would be easy to get to 05 in the middle of the kiln and 06 in the cooler parts near the floor or lid. That, and the Mayco website says "Many Foundations® Opaques can be fired to cone 6 ... Their performance at cone 6 is noted on each individual product label with any changes.". So, unless the particular color you used is labeled otherwise, their own website suggests you can go to ^6 - so there shouldn't be much difference going to 05 instead of 06. I've never used Ma
  23. stainless is nice but I extrude maybe a few thousand or more hamdles in porcelain a year in two extruders -I strickly work in porcealin and I have yet to see in the 40 plus years any rust in the handles.The barrels are rusting and one from Scott Creek is so ruisted its diameter ios much larger now 44 years later. Of couse that extruder is completly modified it has a Brent cap system (the best in terms of speed on and off) and a redone lever and handle (originals broke and bent) now its made right at the fab shop.Super heavy duty. I love stainless and suggest that as an option-let me ch
  24. The real deal, excellent video, Thanks Chilly for posting it. Shame there are so many greats of the 70's that I looked up to, mostly all gone. best, Pres
  25. Just control the flight path, don't clip the wings. Sorce
  26. If you're thinking about that level of fame, that's a handful of people out of hundreds of thousands. The same goes today. Like I can rattle off a bunch of very talented, thoughtful and "famous" modern potters who will likely be just as famous as the leachs and hamadas. But try focusing on the micro level, a potter may not be internet/worldwide famous, but they are well-known in their immediate area. And really that's all that matters. We don't look at 500 year old pots and go "oh that must be a Dorflenberger", no, it's just a beautiful pot in a museum that says the equivalent of John
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