Jump to content


Member Since 02 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 02:59 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: How Forgiving Is Placement Of Posts Under Shelves?

Yesterday, 10:14 PM

Lots of questions. Maybe a few answers from me to start. Lots of times the whole shelf on the bottom is a bad idea if you have a heated bottom. Also remember that your elements start pretty close to the bottom so that space might get heated up more than you would want, warping a shelf-but I can't really attest to that. I do use two half shelves on the bottom at the same 1" posts all around-3 per shelf.I have found over the years that I really don't warp shelves if I am off on placement of stilts by a few inches. I have often done a rotating shelf set up where the shelves and shelf parts help me stack in a spiral. Is it suggested any where? NO, did I have any warping of shelves-no. Did I get all twenty plates/patens and all chalices in the load-yes. I pat myself on the back for those. I fire to cone 6, so I do not put as much stress as someone will at 10. I really don't know how correct I am in my loading of the kiln, but I load solid-no wiggling of post under shelf, entire structure solid from top to bottom with no movement on the shelf when I put a new pot down. I keep my shelves washed, on top, keep them stacked neatly, and have some that from age have cracked that I use as 1/4 shelves or smaller. Some get broken down to use as spacers for things like the spiral stack, or for a spacer for an extra 1/2" or so.


Not a pro, not really trained as none of my college classes early on covered kiln stacking. Later/grad courses assumed you knew, or did the stacking/firing for you. Only one course  touched on all of the particulars I felt I was missing, and that was a visiting prof-Ron Gallas. Great experience.


Hope this helps, and does not raise more questions.

In Topic: Handles Make/break Your Pots

Yesterday, 05:17 PM

Yes! I hate handles that

  • look like a big ear hanging on the side of the pot,
  • that have to much variation in thickness-really thick at join, really thin going into base
  • That pinch the fingers because the join is without an arch
  • that force you to do things awkwardly, as in a teapot with a fancy unapproachable handle
  • handles that are too thin, or too thick for the form
  • and finally handles that don't work at all.

In Topic: Very Strange Bisque Fire-Or How To Wash And Fire Advancers

Yesterday, 10:05 AM

Student helpers are great, especially the diligent ones. They only really have one problem, They want to get it so right to earn your praise doing many things to the point of overkill. With kiln wash overkill can be a headache. Had the shelves done one time in the studio by a student, They washed both sides! I never do that, and never do the edges. She had a beautiful coat of wash on all exposed surfaces, that when I ran the first bisque with them on I found white flakes all over the pots on each shelf. Ground them down, explained the problem to her, and had her redo them with my help. Lesson learned by both of us. Her how to do it right, me to remember to check on a job in progress even when being done by a very trustworthy diligent student.

In Topic: Every Once In A While,

Yesterday, 12:11 AM

Not very often in life do you come across a steal like that, treasure it!

In Topic: Recentering Issue, Trimming Problem

18 October 2014 - 11:27 AM


There are many here that are not fans of the GG, and many that are. If you have been most comfortable with it for whatever reason we need to figure it out. I center my pieces for trimming in a variety of ways, being comfortable with all, and often use the GG when others do not work for what I am doing. I do not like thrown chucks that are either damp or bisquefired as I have found they distort my pieces with either ridges, or clay nerds sticking where the chuck holds the pot. The GG and a little creativity get around this.


A few thoughts and questions.

  • If you are only throwing as you call it smalls, shrinkage on drying to leather hard should be negligible, so I really don't think you would see 1/2 an inch difference.
  • When throwing, do you follow up with a chamois to compress the rim of your pieces? Is everything level at the rim when you start this? Reason I ask is I have seen some students throw slightly off center, and have one side higher than another and then pressure the chamois to even up the rim. This causes objects like bowls to actually warp/collapse on the high side.
  • Many of the objects I throw are off of the hump, and my cutting process can be a little. . . crooked. I have taken to leveling the bottom of pieces by using a hack saw blade held all the way across the base of the piece directly over the center. With the wheel going at my  preferred trimming speed I will press lightly on the hack saw blade until the piece is level, then complete the trim in a normal manner.

The GG probably is not the culprit unless

  • The hold tabs underneath have moved, become slightly bent, or even chewed in some way. If this is the case, repair of replace them.
  • The rubber band and washers underneath are not there, or there is clay under them. If not there, replace, if there clean up.
  • If you are using the holders with rods and pillows, make certain that all holes are cleaned out. If there is a bit of clay in the bottom of a hole, the rod does not fit all the way in and can change the centering minutely. Also make certain the rods are not bent, it is hard to bend them, but have seen one longer rod get bent. You can check the entire assembly for level by placing a bat over top of the positioned rods and pillows and placing your level on that. If there is a discrepancy between that and the level of the GG table then you know where the problem lies-in the pillows and rod assembly.
  • Finally if you are using a pad only type holder, try using the other set that came with your GG. There could be a worn pad on one of the holders that you don't notice.

Hope this helps you out,