Jump to content


Pres

Member Since 02 Apr 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:33 PM
***--

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Stephen Hill Firing Schedule

Yesterday, 10:32 PM

Once ^5 starts going down I turn the kiln down until ^6 is at 90. I let the kiln cool for to red orange, then turn low on til it no longer glows. Then off.


In Topic: Throwing Flanged Lids?

Yesterday, 08:55 PM

For me throwing a flanged lid was learning to leave a thick rim at the top of a shallow bowl to use the index finger nail to separate the flange a rim in one motion, then a second motion to  raise the flange up and inward. Once I got the hang of that the design of a sloped rim or even a double flange, inside and outside that wrapped the lip of the jar was possible. These work well with canisters as an extra barrier.

 

When the lid fit well, but I wanted a smooth feel to things I found simple soft scrub or a scouring powder made into a paste would work in between the lid and jar turning vigorously on the two back and forth until polished smooth. This was done after the glaze firing by the way. :unsure:


In Topic: Octopus...will Be The Death Of Me...

Yesterday, 11:46 AM

For greater lateral strength, you may consider pulling the legs and then attaching them. Pulling lines clay grain in the direction of the pull, whereas coils are usually lined up around the circumference of the coil. At the same time, waxing will slow them down, or covering with a piece of saran type wrap. You may also consider laying a layer of corn meal on the bat to allow shrinkage to not stick, but to slide easily against the bat. This sometimes causes the clay to warp upward.

 

Best,

Preston


In Topic: Oops! Bought A Brent With The Flat Controller

23 April 2014 - 09:34 PM

Use it until you get problems then fork in for the classic, which may be never.


In Topic: Flaking Ceramic

22 April 2014 - 06:35 AM

Could be that you have plaster in your clay body.