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Mark C.

Member Since 09 Jan 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 03:30 PM
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Topics I've Started

Bisque Load-Stuff It Full

17 April 2017 - 01:49 AM

I unloaded my Easter bisque today.

This may be one of my fullest bisque loads-no place for many eggs to fit.

I had lots more smalls than usual as I'm gearing up for shows and outlets needing them.

This load was slow heating and cooling as it was so stuffed.Its all porcelain .

I even fired my electric stuffed yesterday as well with greenware.

Now I'm swimming in bisque ware . Going to take two days to glaze as I have  board meeting eating into the glaze schedule.


Simple Rack System For Shows- Standard Rack

13 April 2017 - 05:49 PM

Many know I have posted about my more complex tiered rack systems  and that I have sent out plans for them

These are my simple racks that I also use and heres how they are made.

These racks also compliment my booth along with the tiered racks

In a typical booth 10x10 I use two 6 foot tired racks and one or two 5 or 6 foot standard racks (which I will call the standard rack to keep it clear vs the tiered ones)

In this photo of booth- forget about the rack off to the left its a standard 6 foot one but there are two standard 5 footers inside my 10x10 footprint

These are much simpler to make. They have most flexible use as they fit narrow spaces.

Most of my shows are not 10x 10 but for this example I will show this space use.

I only do a few with this space constraint  so I have many lengths for different booth layouts

I do many double booths and a few that are 15x10 and a few 10x10s

 

These standard racks have two uprights which I call standards. These are all made from silver maple and the crossbars are set in positions that display my wares best. These decisions are made from many decades of street shows and rack systems with my particular work. The narrow shelves show (what I call flat stuff) off well-those forms are pie plates -chip and dips-square plates-etc.

The tall shelves show glasses-vases-pitchers-utensil holders

As I go lower I display stacks of plates and bowls that one can look into.

These rack are never used for say mugs. I use my other design (tired )ones for them

The racks are all the same widths- 15 inch’s on the outside dimension of the standards.

All racks are 6 shelve units, the same heights (63 inches tall)

I have them in 3 foot and 4 foot and 5 foot and 6 foot widths

The material  is all ¾ inch thick silver maple when done sanding.

. The standards are put together with waterproof glue and biscuit joined

Since they are all alike except for widths they work well together.

 

I have a pair of each size-you can set them up back to back and they all are the same heights so the wares look like they are all on the same levels.

I use them in corner booth displays as I always have a corner. A single would work well in an inline booth just as well.

The shelves are made from a light colored high quality multi-layer plywood .All are ¾ inch thick-Like birch plywood sold at a quality wood yard (not a big box store)They are double sided with the veneer on both sides so you can flip them.

The edges of the shelves are banded with iron on birch banding. If all this sounds over your head you will need a woodworker to make them. Do not use a good iron for this process my wife says-I have my own shop iron for shop use.

I had all mine made from one of the most talented wood people I have ever known. But any good wood worker can make these

The shelves are all 11 ¾ inch wide

I like the water base poly finishes as they never fade the wood and always look bright and light-the only drawback is they off gas for months in the van.

The key points here and this is critical is the two standards have a coated wire attached to them with crimps permanently-you can see this wire in the photo so look closely for it as this keeps them from falling over. You NEED THIS WIRE. The wire is 1/8th coated and the wire fits thru a hole you drill in standards and you use a small aluminum crimp which is to large to slip back thru hole. I like the wire lower than the second from top shelve, as you cannot see the wire as a customer.This wire forms an x on the standards. The other key item is the top and bottom shelve boards are wood cleats that trap the standards and keep the unit tight and strong-look for these in photo. All the other boards can interchange anywhere except the cleated ones on top and bottom. The standards are wired as a pair and the whole rack breaks down flat for storage. Never had one fall or fail.

If you have questions just ask.

 

Re-edited 


Salt Kiln Build And Alternative Roof System

25 March 2017 - 01:47 AM

I found my slat kiln build photos

Alternative kiln roof and metal frame work for a high fire kiln. The metal is all sprayed with high heat aluminum paint

I read an article about 15 years ago from Mel Jacobson using fiber modules he was given .It got me thinking about building a roof from fiber, which I designed around my own needs. At that time I was working on a salt kiln in side yard-it was in the planning stage

Here’s some photos from that build-the fiber is cut in u shapes that you fold-then a stainless steel rod threaded at ends is pierced thru and two iron flat stock bars hold it under tension.

The walls are mix of hard and soft k28 bricks, the floor is three layers-two hard with a soft sandwiched between. The stack is all hard brick and a stainless steel chimney.

The door pipe hinge was scraped from another potters car kiln door and I added the 360-spin feature to it –it’s the best door design I have ever had.

I used heavy steel on the frame as this is a salt kiln and after a decade it’s still holding up well.

Care must be used when handling fiber.

I have never seen this roof design using the fiber folded this way. It would work very well in a reduction kiln and you can span large distances, it has yet to sag at all. In the detail photo you can see the spiked thread ends. The wire is used to handle it and suspend it while placement then removed.

The photos of the group was our 1st fire. I'm the guy on the right in all photos next to kiln.

That was years ago.


Brent Cxc Wheel Jerkiness Fixed

24 March 2017 - 10:01 PM

My CXC has been jerking around at low speeds past year or two. I had gotten used to this impediment . I worked on the foot pedal and this did not change the issue. A few months ago I took some photos of my control circuit board and motor. I finally got around to sending them off to Amaco/Brent asking about a fix. The tech suggested checking the brushes. I took them out and cleaned the powder build up off -keeping them in same plane as they came out. After reassembly I threw a run of small pots and the problem seems to have been fixed. The brushes are from 1982 when I bought this wheel-they are still 2/3 intact .

Simple fix.


Front Loading Electrics

10 March 2017 - 11:12 AM

I have a friend looking to buy a front loader-she asked me about Paragons and Olympics . I suggested Baileys and L$Ls due to the element holders

I think this will be a mostly cone 6  kiln-any suggestions on this??

Neil? Nerd? talk front loaders please .