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Mark C.

Member Since 09 Jan 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 10:27 PM

#125839 Tips For Shipping Pottery In Crate

Posted by Mark C. on 26 April 2017 - 03:30 PM

I drove 20,ooo fair  miles a year for decades doing shows only -Pottery sales and shows means driving.Trucks trailers vans I have done it all from Denver to Tempe to Seattle to Park City. I loved it until I was 60-then its more like work.

I still Drive to a show thats 15 hours and one thats 13 hours and feel like they are pretty close by my standards.

I have  full on road warrior degree by age 40.

I do not need a map to get anywhere in the western US.

I started hitting the pavement in my 30's.

Drive carefully and enjoy the trip.

Those folks on the east coast are spoiled as everything is about 4-6 hours away tops. We out west have to 

drive much further. 

  • moh likes this

#125768 Best Literature To Learn How To Stack A Gas Kiln?

Posted by Mark C. on 25 April 2017 - 10:03 AM

Bag walls are usually used to avoid hot spots-they are not always needed.

Bailey kilns do not use them

In my kilns I build I use them.

You can fire a few times and see if you need them.since your burners enter the same wall as the flue exits I think they would help to keep the flame /heat from going straight out the flue.

I suggest using them in your setup.

You want the flame going up into the load before exiting the flue.


Loading kilns is a learning curve. Think about how the flame /heat wants to get out and slow that down with the stack(meaning the pottery load)

No books come to mind only school of  hard knocks.

#125700 Heat Gun Options

Posted by Mark C. on 23 April 2017 - 12:39 PM

The heat gun costs more, is heavier, and can ignite paper and cloth and will melt plastic bats and spash pans; the hair dryer does not have those qualities.  :D 
I have both and prefer the hair dryer because it is lighter and I don't have to worry about where I place it when I am not holding it. 

I agree with above-I have both to.Both have their place but LT summed it up well.

#125635 Skutt 1027 Upgrade?

Posted by Mark C. on 21 April 2017 - 02:20 PM

If your brick in 2.5 forget about cone 10. If it 3 inches thick wall its a maybe with new elements as Neil says

#125564 Pottery Knowledge Quiz Of The Week (Pkqw): Week 4

Posted by Mark C. on 19 April 2017 - 04:17 PM

I hope the book is not as rambling as the videos-Yappy-he NEEDs Video editing tools badly for sure.

I could not make it thru any of them.

Pres I'm sitting this one out or as a form of flattery I could go on an endless 5 pages of potential answers.

I'll sit it out.

#125423 Bisque Load-Stuff It Full

Posted by Mark C. on 17 April 2017 - 01:49 AM

I unloaded my Easter bisque today.

This may be one of my fullest bisque loads-no place for many eggs to fit.

I had lots more smalls than usual as I'm gearing up for shows and outlets needing them.

This load was slow heating and cooling as it was so stuffed.Its all porcelain .

I even fired my electric stuffed yesterday as well with greenware.

Now I'm swimming in bisque ware . Going to take two days to glaze as I have  board meeting eating into the glaze schedule.

Attached Files

#125354 Simple Rack System For Shows- Standard Rack

Posted by Mark C. on 13 April 2017 - 05:49 PM

Many know I have posted about my more complex tiered rack systems  and that I have sent out plans for them

These are my simple racks that I also use and heres how they are made.

These racks also compliment my booth along with the tiered racks

In a typical booth 10x10 I use two 6 foot tired racks and one or two 5 or 6 foot standard racks (which I will call the standard rack to keep it clear vs the tiered ones)

In this photo of booth- forget about the rack off to the left its a standard 6 foot one but there are two standard 5 footers inside my 10x10 footprint

These are much simpler to make. They have most flexible use as they fit narrow spaces.

Most of my shows are not 10x 10 but for this example I will show this space use.

I only do a few with this space constraint  so I have many lengths for different booth layouts

I do many double booths and a few that are 15x10 and a few 10x10s


These standard racks have two uprights which I call standards. These are all made from silver maple and the crossbars are set in positions that display my wares best. These decisions are made from many decades of street shows and rack systems with my particular work. The narrow shelves show (what I call flat stuff) off well-those forms are pie plates -chip and dips-square plates-etc.

The tall shelves show glasses-vases-pitchers-utensil holders

As I go lower I display stacks of plates and bowls that one can look into.

These rack are never used for say mugs. I use my other design (tired )ones for them

The racks are all the same widths- 15 inch’s on the outside dimension of the standards.

All racks are 6 shelve units, the same heights (63 inches tall)

I have them in 3 foot and 4 foot and 5 foot and 6 foot widths

The material  is all ¾ inch thick silver maple when done sanding.

. The standards are put together with waterproof glue and biscuit joined

Since they are all alike except for widths they work well together.


I have a pair of each size-you can set them up back to back and they all are the same heights so the wares look like they are all on the same levels.

I use them in corner booth displays as I always have a corner. A single would work well in an inline booth just as well.

The shelves are made from a light colored high quality multi-layer plywood .All are ¾ inch thick-Like birch plywood sold at a quality wood yard (not a big box store)They are double sided with the veneer on both sides so you can flip them.

The edges of the shelves are banded with iron on birch banding. If all this sounds over your head you will need a woodworker to make them. Do not use a good iron for this process my wife says-I have my own shop iron for shop use.

I had all mine made from one of the most talented wood people I have ever known. But any good wood worker can make these

The shelves are all 11 ¾ inch wide

I like the water base poly finishes as they never fade the wood and always look bright and light-the only drawback is they off gas for months in the van.

The key points here and this is critical is the two standards have a coated wire attached to them with crimps permanently-you can see this wire in the photo so look closely for it as this keeps them from falling over. You NEED THIS WIRE. The wire is 1/8th coated and the wire fits thru a hole you drill in standards and you use a small aluminum crimp which is to large to slip back thru hole. I like the wire lower than the second from top shelve, as you cannot see the wire as a customer.This wire forms an x on the standards. The other key item is the top and bottom shelve boards are wood cleats that trap the standards and keep the unit tight and strong-look for these in photo. All the other boards can interchange anywhere except the cleated ones on top and bottom. The standards are wired as a pair and the whole rack breaks down flat for storage. Never had one fall or fail.

If you have questions just ask.



Attached Files

#125349 Iron In Glaze? Absolute Beginner's Questions

Posted by Mark C. on 13 April 2017 - 04:24 PM

(*how long will it take to get good enough to make pottery like the attached images?)

This will vary greatly for each person so its impossible to say for you.

#125342 Qotw: Do You Like Innies Or Outies?

Posted by Mark C. on 13 April 2017 - 03:04 PM

#1 is what I make most of the time-cannisters-cookie jars -casseroles-innies as Pres said.

#7 is what I call a flanged lid-usually the pot walls are more straight up vertical than this example

#9 is what 99% of all my teapots are.


What-back in the 80's I came to make all the same forms the same size to simplify lids making

Butter dishes are 17cm

honey pots 10 cm


That way if you need a lid you know the size. I write this on a card pinned to the wall-still there 35 years later.

I fire ALL lids in the pots-if bisquing I flip them over in pot to same vertical space. In glaze fire always upright in pot.

#125341 New Kiln Burners

Posted by Mark C. on 13 April 2017 - 02:55 PM

I think he is in UK as far as Ward Burners

There must be a few places like that non UK as we'll.

#125328 Any Opinions On The Olympic Fl20E Kiln?

Posted by Mark C. on 13 April 2017 - 10:23 AM

check out this thread on front loaders


#125292 Any Opinions On The Olympic Fl20E Kiln?

Posted by Mark C. on 12 April 2017 - 04:16 PM

One thing I can say is Olympics take a different size kiln shelves than other more standard size kiln/shelve configurations.

I have a friend with there large car kiln (gas ) and its cheaply made -yes it cost less than the others but you get what you pay for sometimes.

Check on the actual kiln shelve sizes

#125285 Qotw: Do You Like Innies Or Outies?

Posted by Mark C. on 12 April 2017 - 03:21 PM

Ron as a production potter this is what I do-just to be clear its my way which is a way not the way for everyone and not the only way.

I throw all 10cm lids or smaller off the hump with a lifter and trim the bottoms then tap the center with a rounded wood tool to avoid s cracks. This is for all honey /jam pots.I trim the lids in a honey pot not a chuck.

I throw flanged lids upside down and trim the edges a bit later (on plaster bats)

I throw all inners upside down and trim tops and throw the lifter on top at same time.-Cannisters/butter dishes/cookie jars /etc

I use the giffen grip for speed (sorry for those who do not believe)

I use a dab of slip on a scored lid to add the small clay ball for the lifter in center-often I use clay under lid in center to support lid if its soft and thin.

#125237 Qotw: Do You Like Innies Or Outies?

Posted by Mark C. on 11 April 2017 - 09:46 PM

I recall other names for them-but I get what he meant so I used those terms. Its the idea and Its clear to me whatever we want to call them.I could look it upon in my Library as well ..

I have always called the outies -flanged lids

#125232 Brent Cxc Troubleshooting

Posted by Mark C. on 11 April 2017 - 08:03 PM

I doubt the rain did anything to it especially since it had a tarp and its made to be wet on top..

The fuse  location on Brent wheels varies by controller.

Its a small twist off cap on the front or rear (under the deck on controller box) its usually an 8 amp glass fuze.

The fuze is clear glass with a thick wire  inside. If its blow it has a break in it-an muti meter om test will confirm this if you have one.

Check the fuze and call Amaco /Brent and talk to them.