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Mark C.

Member Since 09 Jan 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:36 AM

#77922 The Holy Grail—A ^10 Clear Gloss Glaze Compatible With Amaco Velvet Underglazes?

Posted by Mark C. on 23 March 2015 - 09:38 PM

I never want to be a god -but thats another rant.

I'm only aware of a few people doing cone 6 full time as potters (Mea here is one)but thats just in my small world or shows in 4 western states .

I know its it the thing in the hobby market and everyone talks about Steven Hills move to cone 6 but thats not in my world nor what I see on the street at my shows.

Nor is it moved into our local arts center which is cone 10 still. The University is low fire and high fire still as is our Junior collage which also does wood fire. 

I have yet to master much in life except I do have my cone 10 glazes down where disasters are very rare so when I have the dragon sleeping I see no need to wake him up and switch to cone 6 and suffer thru that learning curve. My customers would kill me I'm sure if the dragon did not.I have developed a market for this work over 43 years and when its working I see no good reason to save 20$ -30$ per fire.Cone 6 is just a point to get thru in my fires.I love reduction fire no mater what the process-salt-wood-gas-even raku in times long gone by.


#77898 I'll Never Be A Real Potter.

Posted by Mark C. on 23 March 2015 - 02:50 PM

Parts of ceramics are not for everyone.Building kilns-glaze mixing-laying gas pipe-doing electrical work-all skills yes but not for everyone. There are so many things in ceramics that one can spend a lifetime learning about.

Clay work is just a small part of the whole but that also can take a lifetime.

Master what feels right-leave the rest to others.


#77804 The Holy Grail—A ^10 Clear Gloss Glaze Compatible With Amaco Velvet Underglazes?

Posted by Mark C. on 21 March 2015 - 05:46 PM

(working well specifically over the Amaco Velvet underglazes. .)

​Not many cone 10 folks around here. I would mix up a test batch and test it as it may work well for you.


#77796 The Holy Grail—A ^10 Clear Gloss Glaze Compatible With Amaco Velvet Underglazes?

Posted by Mark C. on 21 March 2015 - 03:30 PM

Yes I have one that is clear and glossy-I am firing today a cone 10 glaze -I'll look it up and take a photo of its use for you. It is clear and I have used it for years (like 35-40) It best put on as a thin coat. If it bubbles rub them out. It does not crawl.

Good to see someone else  working in cone 10 reduction

I have used this mainly on porcelain bodies over drawings.I did post it once years ago but the folks who work in cone 10 here are few and far between ,but let me go get it from studio.

You will have to test the results over amaco underglazes as that is an unknown.

PS I'm not laughing at all-not if you asked for a clear matt that one is funny


heres some work  using this glaze covering a few decades-like the 70's and 80's-the clear is on Porc-fired to at least cone cone 9-10 reduction

This glaze is called


HT 51cone 9-10

Kingman feldspar(potash for those who do not have this spar)- 27

Ball Clay OM4                                                                              19.5

Whiting                                                                                         19.5

silica 325 mesh                                                                             34                            

Attached Files

#77751 Kiln Vent Operation

Posted by Mark C. on 20 March 2015 - 09:57 PM

Further firing test on hold. Sliced open my thumb. No throwing for awhile.

What I do when that happens is use super glue. Once the blood stops glue it shut. You can start throwing in 5 minutes after glue sets.

reglue when it opens later. They do this in emergency rooms daily with super glue.

I used some today on my finger cracks.


#77629 Covering Greenware After Attachments

Posted by Mark C. on 18 March 2015 - 11:09 PM

TJR now that you realize santa was a hoax please pack up and mail me that old train system -my address is at my web site.Thanks I will take good care of it-sorry about your red suit dilemma .


Getting back to covering handled forms these mugs made today as weel as two other bat fulls of soup mugs where pushed dry today. They where thrown today then handled  today and put into the 70 degree day of sunshine. Tonight they are on top shelves in studio with gas heater roaring (about 95 degrees up there) I will load and fire them in bisque in early am tomorrow . Glaze them on Friday with full kiln load of pots as I have done now for 5 fridays in a row. I'm pushing for a big show in Arizona next weekend


The mugs are crack free at this point as all the connections where made during the perfect time for joining.I usually cover them 1 night but if you get it right you do not have to. Also Porcelain dries real fast and this works in your favor if you time it right.This will take some time to learn if you are new at this so experiment and see what can be done with clay as far as pushing the limits. Until you find them you do not know where they are.

One can also load the damp mugs into a hot just unloaded glaze kiln and with no burner on they dry right out saw well. If I had a hot kiln unloaded today that would be my 1st choice to dry them. But as I;m firing them fast in am I want them bone dry hence the hot shop which is drying some other forms tonight as well.Today its was 40 regular 1# mugs and 16 soup mugs pushed dry with handles no cover and no cracks.


Attached Files

#77594 Gloss Going Matt

Posted by Mark C. on 18 March 2015 - 12:45 PM

I'm very unclear why you did this wet?

Most mistakes are from measuring wrong-I have made more than you can imagine.

when working with large 10,000 gram batches make a measuring check list.

Also buy a cheap electronic scale for those large batchs so you can wieghh the ingredients all at once.

It will save you headaches.


#77570 What Do You Get Out Of This Forum Interaction?

Posted by Mark C. on 18 March 2015 - 01:38 AM

I came to this forum asking if anyone had had wrist surgery and had bones removed as I was very concerned this may end my career in ceramics. I did get one reply from abroad if I recall and it was not good. I had the surgery( really had no choice) and am still making pots on a grand scale after a tough rehab period. I recall typing with one finger my 1st few months on this board.


What kept me here was a feeling of sharing . That sharing is two sided at least one is what I have learned in my area of ceramics and the non competitive spirt here ( I had some rough experiences on another ceramic forum ?I'm not saying which).

It was a combination of my age (old enough to want to give some back) and helping others not fall into the potholes I have tripped in and learning some new insights that could also help me.

I have learned some things here that I use weekly in production and work with new items I learned about here (like diamond sanding pads)

I have met many here that I can relate to and have gotten the satafaction of mentoring thru the potters counsil as well. I had been a member a long time before I joined this forum .

What I like is the advice here is just given and one can take it or not but no one gets personal about it. Its not my way or the highway. The older I get the less I know but I do know that things work differenty for different people so my way of something is not the best way or the only way just a way that works for me.. It may work for you and it maynot .This can be said for all advice from whomever and folks here seem at ease with the process.I have been around long enough to really enjoy the sharing from both sides of the aisle here.


#77568 Markers Marks-Get Your Signature Recorded For All Time.

Posted by Mark C. on 18 March 2015 - 01:09 AM

No fuss for me its about who made the darn pot 50-100 years from now.As a producer of very large volumes of work  over a very long period of time.

A pot  that has LHP on bottom -who knows what that means 2 generations from now. With a data base of marks one can tell the maker long after makers are gone.

Makers marks are on many ceramic commercial wares from the past and present and that knowledge is known but from individuals its a guess at best so knowledge of marks will mean something to somebody down the road.

As to marks or chops or signatures its all about identifying the maker -some choose a chop others a signature-thats all up to the maker.For me its not a fuss but an ID issue.

This also can change over time I used to sign all wares Cort and over time have shifed to about 2/3 LHP and 1/3 Cort. 

I feel better that in 70 years someone could look up a mark and know their dinnerware was made my Liscom Hill Pottery and that was me.

This is my second go round with a Makers mark data base as the other one vanished after a few years.


#77495 Firing Disaster? Fired For 20 Hours - 9 Hour Soak?

Posted by Mark C. on 17 March 2015 - 03:52 AM

ok back to sleep for me


#77485 Stuffers Is One Way To Make One Kiln Load Into Two.

Posted by Mark C. on 16 March 2015 - 11:15 PM


>>>>> you cannot stack glaze ware.<<<<<


Speaking of glaze ware, I read your post from last year about the spoon rests and Ramen bowls.  And that

the spoon rests retail for $5.00.  Is there a point of zero sum gain where you can make something that retails

for say $5.00 but can't afford to wholesale it for less?

Thanks in advance.



Yes the spoon rest-I only sell this at $5 no matter who or how many-so This is my threshold bottom of a form. A wholesale one is $5 same as retail. I have sold 150 to a hotel or 24 to a gallery-its always $5.

On smalls the wholesale for me is never 1/2 cost anyway-I sell sponge holders of 1$ less than my retail-on small items my price is low so whole sale is just a dollar or two less and some items I do not wholesale.

On larger items my wholesale is about 1/3 off my price.But thats my model and it does not work for everyone.


#77375 Planning A Glaze Kiln Load - How Much Planning?

Posted by Mark C. on 14 March 2015 - 04:52 PM

Mark C. That is impressive. Even more impressive (to me) is what you demonstrated a few years ago with tumble stacking.  The topic here, however, is glaze fire loading...and I wouldn't want to give anyone the impression that we can stack glazed pieces.  But on that thought...do you ever plan glaze fired pieces so that they are layered in the kiln  unglazed area to unglazed area (i.e. unglazed rim to unglazed rim)?




So keeping with glaze fire loading (see my stuffer post from yesterday for photos of these glaze loads)

I never have unglaze lips now-3 decades ago when I was doing planters/birdbaths and the like some I stacked them as you described but now all lips are glazed.

With the glaze loads I still stuff it full with stuffers . When I think I have filled every space I reexamine and can always add a few more. Just 3 extra sponge holders per shelve is $30 more per shelve and for me thats about 25-30 shelves per glaze load-it soon adds up to a trip to the tropics or in your case some indoor court Bball action in another state.

Under the bottom car kiln layer on car and in front door area is space which is cool but you can put cool glazed ware there.

My main point is with smalls you can always stuff a few more in.


#77354 Choosing A Name For Your Pottery Business

Posted by Mark C. on 14 March 2015 - 12:02 PM

My name is from a place name where the pottery is located.I named it when I bought the property and started building kilns and pottery.That was 1973.

Its not as easy to find via web unless you know the name but the same can be said if it was named Mark Cortright Pottery-you still need to recall the name.

I will add that it did take years for this name to catch on-now in my area the name is extremely well known as well as the shows I do as I have had presence for so many years.

I feel lucky on this name choice-its unique and you will not find another-whereas peoples names tend to repeat-say Jims pottery-you may find many with this name.

Now my name via google shows Liscom Hill Pottery and vice versa as its all one really now on the web.

One really needs to consider the choice of name well as changing it later on only muddys the water.

When I first started I took checks in my name but soon that changed as I really shifted to a real business with a name that has grown into a well known name.

If you plan on staying small and just selling a few items then there is no need to use anything but your name-or as Chris did your name is your business-the one thing that does is it puts your name in the collective memory and that also is a plus for memory in peoples minds..


#77323 Stuffers Is One Way To Make One Kiln Load Into Two.

Posted by Mark C. on 14 March 2015 - 01:42 AM

I like to take advantage of space-its one of the things that I have learned to do that can really make a difference in costs.

This Mornings bisque looked like this as I took these photos at 9 am.

This single car kiln loans (35 cubic feet) turned into two kiln loads this afternoon after glazing all day with my assistant.

I was able to fill the 35 again as well as my 12 cubic updraft buy 7 tonight. (I had Alaska friends drop by so I lost an hour)

By stuffing this kiln with stuffers (small stuff-over 280 little things like spoon rests sponge holders and baby bowls)

And by stacking things tight and stacking inside things like bowl stacks and smalls inside soup mugs etc.

One can turn a kiln into two loads, It did not all fit into both kilns as I had some left over as well.

Heres todays work flow from one large bisque into two loaded glaze loads to be fired in am.

This has been the 4 the 4th Friday in a row just like this with two kiln loads done.I shot the glaze loads at 7 pm same day

I'm feeling a bit like its x-mas season again but this is the last push and some of this will go to my outlets

So if you make lots of stuffers you can really expand into two loads along with wise stacking of regular forms. 

One electric bisque (as many here work with) could turn into two glaze loads with this put to practice. It lowers firing costs as well as more work per fire.

It does make for one long glaze day.


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#77286 How Do You Deal With Injuries?

Posted by Mark C. on 13 March 2015 - 10:33 AM

I would not do throwing until its mended. I had my scaphoid removed along with 2 other nearby bones-it took 5 months to get back to thowing.

Let it heal then do your rehab.