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Mark C.

Member Since 09 Jan 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 12:48 AM
*****

#68916 Mizusashi? Shigaraiki?

Posted by Mark C. on Yesterday, 11:18 AM

Yunomi attempt. Hotter part of kiln, I'm assuming... Still leaks.....

Drink faster




#68764 Craft Shows... Tips For Success

Posted by Mark C. on 27 October 2014 - 11:07 PM

Heres a tip I learned long ago

Back in the LATE 70's Iwas at a huge festaival as a early greenhorn selling my wares with another potter. The show was in a large underground convention center is Downtown San Francisco. The show was back the called The San Francisco Harvest festival.

It was a two weekend event with 4 down days between weekends -show was Fri-Sat-Sun-then again next Fri-Sat Sun.

I was a green kid who was learning the ropes-in all aspects.

There was a double booth across and down from us a few booths they had incredible decorated pots mostly mugs with exotic birds and such on them-truly tons of work on each piece. 

Then came break down and pack up-back then we used wood vegetable crates to pack pots into. Here we where wraping eack pot in newspaper . It was a slow process then I glanced down to see this double booth with two potters almost done and out of there-I went over to see them pack that last few boxes wonding if they just smashed all the work so they could leave early. The guys said we saw you wraping each piece and we gave that up years ago now all we doo is pack 1 tight layer of mugs with one sheet of paper over them and the next layer is added on top tight then the box is done. No breakage I said-they said rarely.

Yes they had great detail work . 

I learned this that night and have been packing mugs and such ( just about all pots) with only one piece of paper for the whole two layer box since then. I'm out of shows faster and know the pots limit of abuse-I also rarely loose a pice this way as long as the box is tightly full.

On  box of say large pitchers one piece of loose paper keeping between then is all I do. You learn soon what pots can and cannot take.

Other potters see me do this and think I'm crazy but after 40 years I know what works and what does not. wrapping each piece is not for me.

Mark




#68685 Hard Brick Vs Ifb

Posted by Mark C. on 26 October 2014 - 09:23 PM

Great for salt kiln liner as well.

Hey we can spend your $.

 Nothing like a yard full of brick piles

Mark




#68495 Airbrush Recommendation For Underglazing

Posted by Mark C. on 24 October 2014 - 12:51 AM

I have an old paasche as well and it far from great. I like to cover more area so a small sprayer for me is a better choice. If you are working on a micro scale get a dual action airbrush-but again check out the small sprayers as they cover more ground.

Mark




#68295 Kiln Questions

Posted by Mark C. on 21 October 2014 - 03:26 PM

Hi, I have an old AIM 1718 manual kiln with LT3 kiln sitter that I acquired a few years ago but have never used. I take classes and use their kiln but they only do low fire and I would like to be able to do mid-range stoneware work. I have never fired a kiln myself but have been reading up on the basics. The kiln I have appears to be in relatively good shape, clean, a few small areas of firebrick have fallen out but are available for patching to keep the elements from sagging. A blank section, shorter, with no elements or switches, etc. appears to have been added to the 2 sections.this kiln comes with. It is rated at 230 volts and 20 amps. Would my dryer circuit be able to handle this or would I need a dedicated circuit added? I have the kin in my garage which is where the dryer is located. If it would work on my dryer circuit, what should I look for in a test firing? How does the extra blank section affect firing? Does it take longer to heat, etc? What would I use to patch the areas of loose firebrick? Also, I will be needing shelves, posts, etc. Is it a good idea to look for used or not and if so, what should I look out for? Any other suggestions from folks out there?

You can repair bricks with this kit from L$L

http://www.hotkilns....rick-repair-kit

If you use a dead ring it slows down the firing -any firing.

As to your Dryer curcuit what breaker size is it now (or better yet what wire size?)

If your dryer curcuit has other things on it -I would not use it.

Mark




#68280 Flower Pot Suggestions

Posted by Mark C. on 21 October 2014 - 10:02 AM

Back many years ago I made planters-I like the ones with a built in drip tray-just leave some clay on botton outside and form an outer ring. poke three holes from inside to outer tray. No suacers needed-these work well and look great. They are not sold in stores.

Mark




#68198 How Forgiving Is Placement Of Posts Under Shelves?

Posted by Mark C. on 19 October 2014 - 11:35 PM

I have a story about posts not lined up back in collage.

Another person loaded the bisque (36 cubic foot alpine kiln) He choose to not align the posts much near the bottom and changed the pattern 1/2 way up. He lit the kiln and left. I was throwing late that night when we heard a huge strange noise from th kiln room-as we approached the room was a mix of fine dust and the feeling something was off. We turned off the kiln and let it cool after opening the door the whole load had collapsed with very little greenware left whole.Seems the top shelve was now near the bottom shelve and all the pots where back to smaller clay pieces once again.

 

Years later this same guy blew up his home built catanary arch kiln-the two end walls blew out and the arch went up then down into a pile.

 

Years I bought all his materials as he gave up working with clay.

 

Now you can fudge some for sure on line ups but do it near the top of the load.

As to shelve on bottom-mine is a full with 1/2 broken shelve pieces on floor under it-the floor is always cooler and a shelve up helps with more heat.I only bisque in this kiln occasionally . I do not have a vent or heated floor

With my 35 foot car kiln to cone 10 or cone 08 the posts all line up always. I take care of my shelves and get long life from them this way. Theres not much reason ever not to have posts line up. Maybe large sculpture and if thats the case fire it on top.

One last note we all learn from our mistakes you will not know your limits until you have exceded them.

Mark




#68166 Very Strange Bisque Fire-Or How To Wash And Fire Advancers

Posted by Mark C. on 19 October 2014 - 11:36 AM

Those shelves look so thin Mark! Are these the light expensive mummas people write about? So you bisque with no wares present? They look so pristine!   DO you still have to grind your pots?

Yes this are the expensive mummas-Right now they are just over 200$ delivered in lots of 10.

I like to set fire the wash on shelves and posts -I have found for me this makes for less chips falling during a glaze fire if I set fire the wash. This bisque load has about 1/3 space dedicated to wash firing furniture.I only do this every 4-5 years as the wash lasts a long time.

As far as grinding pots I just rub the porcelain pot bottoms with a rubbing stone

I like these from the same folks I bought my advancers from

http://glazeeraser.p...raser-hand-tool

 

On another note this was never cracks if you apply it thin and build up the coats-I use two-let them dry completly between coats.-I use a 9 inch roller with a (and this is KEY a paint screen in a 5 gallon bucket) the screen drops in and is held buy the bucket lip and you roll off the excess wash on roller with it just as you would if your are using paint.-The screen is a few bucks at any hardware store.

without the screen your roller will load up to thick-also use a thick roller like a 3/8 nap.

I have a dedicated setup for this hanging in studio.

You should use the calcined material to avoid cracks (shrinks less)

Mark

Mark




#68128 Small Stuff Sells-This One Sweet Dish Is From Oldlady

Posted by Mark C. on 18 October 2014 - 08:41 PM

I still am not easy with calling her Oldlady but she insists it seems.

Here is a dish she sent me next to a dime as well as a ruler. its one sweet dragonfly dish she sells for 7$.Its a perfect stuffer size when loading.

These smaller items add up fast-my guess is she press molds a image into the clay form but she can explain.

Its an green Oribe glaze.

Mark

Attached Files




#68086 Are We Being Hacked Again?

Posted by Mark C. on 18 October 2014 - 11:28 AM

I report these all the time-no big deal.




#67706 Sanding Porcelain

Posted by Mark C. on 13 October 2014 - 10:08 AM

Sart with wet sponging when it in the green state-sand with diamond pad when fired.

Mark




#67680 Setting An Electric Kiln Outside

Posted by Mark C. on 13 October 2014 - 01:27 AM

Most kilns have a metal stand does yours?If its a yes and has legs and holds the kiln up about 8 inches you are fine without bricks.

if not then you will need space between cement and kiln floor-some cinder blocks and soft bricks will work.

18 inches will work on side but a sheet of tile board (wonder board or duro rock) will be a little extra protection over the wood held in with afew screws.

Mark




#67667 Firing Of Thinnslabs

Posted by Mark C. on 12 October 2014 - 06:10 PM

There can be had here

https://www.baileypo...ure/setters.htm

Mark




#67635 Do You Replace Things You Sold That Break?

Posted by Mark C. on 11 October 2014 - 11:26 PM

I'd replace it. One thing I don't like replacing but do are lids on casseroles because of the fit. A bit of a tedious job if you don;t make batches of casseroles  with the same dimensions.

As above, not always in contiol of how your ware is handled by shops. I replaced a large platter because the Gallery which sold the platter placed it in a recycled plastic carrier bag. The buyer then walked 2 kms home,and yes along the way there was the big bad wolf, Gravity, which seized and smashed the platter.

Babs I learned long ago to write in the inside of the lid the centimeters-say if its 27 I write with a slipped finger 27 and glaze over that. You can read this still and customers never even see it-that way when its broke I ask what it says and I can make a new one that fits easy.

All my butterdishes/garlic roatsers are 17 so thats easy to replace over the past 35-40 years.

Mark




#67577 Setting An Electric Kiln Outside

Posted by Mark C. on 10 October 2014 - 06:32 PM

( I have already contacted a licensed electrician to do the wiring,)

Have the licensed electrician do the wiring  set the kiln and later just do a partial inclosed area on porch

If you want you can get your own permit to do this is you must but a partial enclosure most likley needs no permit.

Mark