Jump to content


nairda

Member Since 26 Dec 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:46 PM
-----

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Turpentine Pot, Herty Pot?

09 December 2014 - 07:29 PM

It was not hard to find Herty cups and a subsequent clay version (like a small loaf pan, but curved to fit the side of the tree) when walking in longleaf pine stands in the Florida panhandle in the 1950s.  Wish I still had the ones I picked up back then!  

 

From Wikipedia - "The initial Herty system utilized two v-shaped galvanized iron gutters to collect the resin. The simplicity of the method allowed it to be taught to the existing workforce in the turpentine industry. Herty's method yielded more resin that was also higher in quality; however, the most important success of this new method was that it lengthened the useful lifetime of the pine trees from only a few years to decades. This extended use not only saved the trees but the naval store industry as well. Herty's less destructive collection method also allowed the trees to eventually be milled as lumber.[10] Herty subsequently moved from an iron gutter to a ceramic one, and his involvement with the Chattanooga Pottery Company in the production of the ceramic gutters eventually led to the creation of the Herty Turpentine Cup Company in 1909."


In Topic: How Forgiving Is Placement Of Posts Under Shelves?

20 October 2014 - 09:33 AM

If your kiln is vented through the bottom, you'll want to place your bottom shelf at least 1/2" off the floor; am guessing 1" might be better.  I use  I " supports beneath the bottom shelf because it allow for the vent to do its job and puts the shelf just a bit below the first row of elements.  As others have said, easier to scrape or replace a shelf than a kiln floor.


In Topic: I Can't See/find My Cone!

15 October 2014 - 07:02 PM

I always dipped the cone tip in some red iron slip.  Less than a 1/4".  While some say it will provide flux to the cone, I've put 'dipped cones' and non-dipped ones side-by-side in the kiln to see what effect it had; and they bent exactly the same.  Placed the cone pack as close as possible to the peep.  L & L kiln has good sized peeps so it was never too hard to see the cone at Cone 5-6 temps.


In Topic: Hobby Potter Teaching Others.

06 April 2014 - 02:46 PM

I am in a similar position - leading a community pottery.  I sent you a PM via this site.  Should be an alert in the envelope icon at the top of the page.  Perhaps we can share info.  I am also located in Virginia.  Thanks.


In Topic: Water In A Studio Without Plumbing: Ideas Needed

19 March 2014 - 10:06 AM

My studio (separate bldg from my house) has no water and it works very well.  There's a utility sink in our basement, about 25' away that I use for final hand cleaning/glaze mixing water. I  wet mix glazes outdoors to eliminate dust inside basement or studio.  

 

In the studio I use a 3.5 gallon plastic beverage dispenser that sits up on wooden blocks the same size as the dispenser base so it's stable.  Dispenser has flip up/down lever to turn the water on/off so it's easy to use with slip covered fingers.  There's a 12-cup plastic catch basin on the table under the tap.   I use a 'clean water only'  3 gallon bucket to refill the dispenser.  

 

I glaze about 50-60 pieces at a time and have glaze buckets on dollies.  When glazing, I spread a fabric dropcloth on the floor that catches all the drops/splops. When it gets really dirty it gets hosed off outside and line dried.

 

Decades ago I had to haul every drop of potable water I used in daily life in gallon buckets which prompted efficient water use habits.  While it works for me, it's probably not efficient if you are making 100 pots a day, every day. I'm in my studio almost every day, but have a leisurely production schedule and only mix 5 gallon bucket sized containers of glaze.  My studio stays much cleaner without running water, probably because it makes me mindful of not being sloppy with clay/glazes.