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Matt Oz

Member Since 16 Dec 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 12:30 PM
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#51307 Underglaze, Colored Slips, Compatible?

Posted by Matt Oz on 29 January 2014 - 04:37 PM

Laguna  did make a substitute called Luguna Borate but they discontinued it.

Short PDF with announcement. http://www.lagunacla...y/lagborate.pdf

So that explains all the confusion.




#46728 Glaze Question On Purchased Item

Posted by Matt Oz on 27 November 2013 - 10:51 AM

 They are not dropping dead like flies over there........ in fact they have almost the longest life expectancies in the world ;) .

 

best,

 

................john

 

Especially in the Village of the Watermills. B)




#40416 Stoneware Continually "pings" Even After A Day...

Posted by Matt Oz on 08 August 2013 - 10:53 AM

So Trina ... What about the Great One huh?? I'll see two of your Orrs and raise you a Gretzky.

 

This reminds me, when my mother was a little girl growing up in the Detroit area, Her older sister would take her to hockey games, coming out of the arena one night she all of a sudden got caught up in a large crowd and didn't know what was going on, until she looked up at who was walking beside her Mr. Hockey himself Gordie Howe. Of course he was very nice about the hole thing.




#39773 COOL ICE - CONE 6 - PORCELAIN CLAY

Posted by Matt Oz on 28 July 2013 - 06:34 PM

any of you clay  gurus....

 

what, or why is one clay more translucent than others?

 

is it the type of porcelain in the clay body? is epk, grolleg, tile 6, helmer  more translucent than another?

 

if so whats your guess?

 

The short answer is the purity of the kaolin, all the clay bodies discussed in this topic are using a very pure New Zealand kaolin (technically a halloysite), that explains the NZ in NZ6.




#38551 Forum's New Look & My Lost Gallery

Posted by Matt Oz on 09 July 2013 - 01:45 PM

Okay I clicked the little x under the like this button and it gives you options to ignore people.  No I'm not referring to anyone in particular, or am I?

 

 

When I hit the like button it doesn’t seem to show in public anymore, I thought it was useful sometimes to see popular answers.




#37653 Pottery for Everyman

Posted by Matt Oz on 24 June 2013 - 06:24 PM

I live in Michigan and speak fluent Canadian because I grew up on: Mr. Dressup, The Friendly Giant and the Beachcombers (Channel 9), I often trade beaver pelts, duct tape and the occasional pasty with them. -not pastie

Has this topic gone askew....By the way, type askew into the Google homepage and watch what happens.


#36612 What Every Potter Needs!

Posted by Matt Oz on 08 June 2013 - 09:07 AM

It's a Captain Ceramics splash guard, watch this video to see it and many other wonderful Captain Ceramic products like pre-centered clay...




#19887 Wax drip removal

Posted by Matt Oz on 26 July 2012 - 01:54 PM


I keep a bottle of nail polish remover in my studio for just such an occassion. Works perfectly !!

That would be Acetone...good idea. I usually re-heat in my test kiln.
Marcia




Also handy if you super glue your fingers together.


#19740 What do you do with the pieces that just don't make it? | July 24, 2012

Posted by Matt Oz on 24 July 2012 - 08:51 AM

Hulk "SMASH"


#15625 strength of earthen- vs stoneware

Posted by Matt Oz on 08 April 2012 - 11:19 AM


I think it may depend on your definition of 'strength'. High fired clays may be harder, but not necessarily stronger when impacted or stressed. If I understand Pete's test method, they were taking bars of clay, laying them across a gap, and snapping them in half via pressure in the middle? In that case, it makes sense to me that the earthenware was the winner. Under this method of testing, the earthenware probably has more flexibility and can deflect more than the stoneware before breaking. The stoneware/high fired clays, while tighter and harder, are likely more brittle under this type of test, and can't deflect much at all before giving way and snapping.


I don't think you're right about this. I think "hardness", too, depends more on composition of clay body and that clay body being fired to maturity than on temperature. I'm almost certain a cone 6 porcelain fired to maturity is just as "hard" as a cone 10 porcelain fired to maturity and, after reading about Pete's test, I would guess that a cone 04 earthenware fired to maturity is just as hard, if not harder, than any cone 10 clay.

Maybe Matt can pull up something about hardness or, at least, chime in here with his opinion.

Jim


As far as the red earthenware goes, the redart recipe doesn’t look like it has a lot flux in it, so I would think that it is porous like other red earthenware. I wonder how much flexibility does play a role, he did mention a cone 1 firing didn’t make it stronger, which I assume means it was just as strong. Could the high iron content of red clays have something to do with the results?


About difference between cone 6 porcelain and 10, from what I have read there are more and longer mullite crystals at higher temperatures, it would be nice to know how much of a difference it makes. Here is an interesting paper on the subject that seems relevant.... Mullite development

It would be interesting to compare a vitrified 6 and 10, under glazes with similar compression (or how ever you would do a fair comparison), then put them through a series of tests. Until then, I'll rely on everyone’s real life experience, because I only fire to 6. I'm really only curious though, cone 6 has proven to be strong and durable enough for my needs.


On a similar subject, Matt and Dave’s clays have published results on there website in the science section, showing how a cone 6 gloss glaze, using the right amount of boron, can be more durable than a 10.


#14873 Share your most memorable clay experiment? | March 12, 2012

Posted by Matt Oz on 17 March 2012 - 11:52 AM

Sounds like a harrowing experience Kabe. I'll have to remember that Nair trick.


#14816 functional vs. sculptural

Posted by Matt Oz on 15 March 2012 - 08:15 PM

here's my opinion: I have never met a piece of clay that I didn't like, sculptural or functional, amateur or professional.


#14799 Tumble stacking the bisque-electrics

Posted by Matt Oz on 15 March 2012 - 02:05 PM

Aw come on, I see a little more room in there ;)


#13245 Shared Studios

Posted by Matt Oz on 09 February 2012 - 12:29 PM

Great video and art.
Compared to static photos, I think video does a better job representing artists work. If only sites like Etsy had video listings.


#12031 Seeing witness cones

Posted by Matt Oz on 08 January 2012 - 10:41 AM


Here is a helpful link that goes to the Paragon kiln website, written by Arnold Howard.

How do you position the cones on the shelf so that you can see them through a peephole?


I guess I do everything-breaking the rules. 1)I set up my cone back so that it sets parallel to the peep hole, perpendicular to the wall. 2) the cones are set at opposite angles along the length of the coil of clay. 3) I set the cone very close to the peep hole so that I can see each cone when loading the kiln. 4) I pack a kiln way to tight to see an element on the other side of the kiln.


Thank you for the alternative info, important points.