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Matt Oz

Member Since 16 Dec 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:53 PM

#73542 Why Do The Fluxing Molecules Only Have One Oxygen Atom

Posted by Matt Oz on 17 January 2015 - 09:45 PM

Tyler Miller explains this better than I've seen in a while...and that appreciation is coming from someone who would still be an undergraduate if he had to take one more chemistry class. Thanks Tyler!


On a less serious note, when I first read the topic question I was reminded of an old joke:


Two hydrogen atoms walk into a bar...

One says, "I've lost my electron".
The other responds, "Are you sure?"

The first replies, "Yes. I'm positive!"



When two elements love each other very much, they come together to form a compound.


Sorry, I'm not helping.

#72182 Translucent Porcelain Hidden Pattern Experiment.

Posted by Matt Oz on 20 December 2014 - 06:50 PM

I experimented with an easy way to create a simple pattern with colored porcelain that also creates a more complex one that only emerges when backlit, I used coils of porcelain colored with Mason stains and the opacifier Zircopax.

Haven’t done anything with it yet, other than make test tiles, and I’m sure there have been lots of creative techniques used out there to do similar.


I'm using a glassy porcelain that melts and slumps to much to use for most projects, if anybody tries this you should get good results with one of New Zealand kaolin based porcelains.


Praseodymium stain for yellow.

Wedgewood for blue.

Zircopax for white.


Test tiles are about 3/32" thick roughly an inch wide

The photos are of a tile lit from the front, then backlit with a led bulb.



I twisted two coils together, one with a small amount of blue stain the other uncolored porcelain, then Inlaid them into a slab of lighter blue making a simple twist pattern, when lit from behind a more complex pattern appears.




Here is a pale blue and pale yellow twisted, where the two colors overlap it creates green when lit, doesn’t stand out much though.



This one is a white coil twisted with a uncolored porcelain coil then inlaid in white, so you can only see half the pattern when not backlit.


Hope you found these interesting.

#71817 Bubble Glaze Experiment With Close Ups.

Posted by Matt Oz on 13 December 2014 - 04:52 PM

The black clay I used was a porcelain with black mason stain. These were a single fire, but I have used it on bisque ware and there are still bubbles if it is thick.


Firing schedule:

I have a slow warm up at the beginning but after that its just

300 degF/hr to 1980

110 degF/hr to 2180 or whatever bends cone 6

No slow cool or hold.


Here is one more of tile one through a magnifying glass, shows ever-smaller bubbles. Now I have to go fire up the Electron microscope,  where did I put that thing?


#71690 Bubble Glaze Experiment With Close Ups.

Posted by Matt Oz on 11 December 2014 - 03:08 PM

A while ago I did some experiments with a cone 6 clear in a electric kiln that has lots of tiny bubbles in it when applied thicker, I made some small tiles (about 1 1/8" square) out of black clay so the bubbles would have good contrast and because they're fired horizontal I got a nice even spread of bubbles.

Some tests have additions of Mason stain.


The first tile has white clay inlaid in the black clay with small pieces of a glassy porcelain I have that were placed on top of the glaze prior to firing.

Tile three has 1% Mazerine stain added to the clear with a streak of white glaze on top and a ball of porcelain.

The last one is 4% Praseodymium with porcelain additions.


Close ups:


Tile one



Tile one closer



Tile three



The glaze is:


25 3134

15 Custer

20 Kaolin

20 Silica

20 Wollastonite


Not the most compatible of glazes but bubbly. I don't remember exactly how thick the clear was but at least 4 coats and if applied too thick the glaze becomes too cloudy.

I haven’t experimented with this enough to know if it's useful or practical to do it this way, but found it interesting.

#57510 Craft Is Good; Crafter Is Not -- Cerf+ Survey Results

Posted by Matt Oz on 28 April 2014 - 10:59 AM

Crafter has never bothered me, and you can call me what ever you want as long as you buy something from me.

#51307 Underglaze, Colored Slips, Compatible?

Posted by Matt Oz on 29 January 2014 - 04:37 PM

Laguna  did make a substitute called Luguna Borate but they discontinued it.

Short PDF with announcement. http://www.lagunacla...y/lagborate.pdf

So that explains all the confusion.

#46728 Glaze Question On Purchased Item

Posted by Matt Oz on 27 November 2013 - 10:51 AM

 They are not dropping dead like flies over there........ in fact they have almost the longest life expectancies in the world ;) .






Especially in the Village of the Watermills. B)

#40416 Stoneware Continually "pings" Even After A Day...

Posted by Matt Oz on 08 August 2013 - 10:53 AM

So Trina ... What about the Great One huh?? I'll see two of your Orrs and raise you a Gretzky.


This reminds me, when my mother was a little girl growing up in the Detroit area, Her older sister would take her to hockey games, coming out of the arena one night she all of a sudden got caught up in a large crowd and didn't know what was going on, until she looked up at who was walking beside her Mr. Hockey himself Gordie Howe. Of course he was very nice about the hole thing.


Posted by Matt Oz on 28 July 2013 - 06:34 PM

any of you clay  gurus....


what, or why is one clay more translucent than others?


is it the type of porcelain in the clay body? is epk, grolleg, tile 6, helmer  more translucent than another?


if so whats your guess?


The short answer is the purity of the kaolin, all the clay bodies discussed in this topic are using a very pure New Zealand kaolin (technically a halloysite), that explains the NZ in NZ6.

#38551 Forum's New Look & My Lost Gallery

Posted by Matt Oz on 09 July 2013 - 01:45 PM

Okay I clicked the little x under the like this button and it gives you options to ignore people.  No I'm not referring to anyone in particular, or am I?



When I hit the like button it doesn’t seem to show in public anymore, I thought it was useful sometimes to see popular answers.

#37653 Pottery for Everyman

Posted by Matt Oz on 24 June 2013 - 06:24 PM

I live in Michigan and speak fluent Canadian because I grew up on: Mr. Dressup, The Friendly Giant and the Beachcombers (Channel 9), I often trade beaver pelts, duct tape and the occasional pasty with them. -not pastie

Has this topic gone askew....By the way, type askew into the Google homepage and watch what happens.

#36612 What Every Potter Needs!

Posted by Matt Oz on 08 June 2013 - 09:07 AM

It's a Captain Ceramics splash guard, watch this video to see it and many other wonderful Captain Ceramic products like pre-centered clay...

#19887 Wax drip removal

Posted by Matt Oz on 26 July 2012 - 01:54 PM

I keep a bottle of nail polish remover in my studio for just such an occassion. Works perfectly !!

That would be Acetone...good idea. I usually re-heat in my test kiln.

Also handy if you super glue your fingers together.

#19740 What do you do with the pieces that just don't make it? | July 24, 2012

Posted by Matt Oz on 24 July 2012 - 08:51 AM

Hulk "SMASH"

#15625 strength of earthen- vs stoneware

Posted by Matt Oz on 08 April 2012 - 11:19 AM

I think it may depend on your definition of 'strength'. High fired clays may be harder, but not necessarily stronger when impacted or stressed. If I understand Pete's test method, they were taking bars of clay, laying them across a gap, and snapping them in half via pressure in the middle? In that case, it makes sense to me that the earthenware was the winner. Under this method of testing, the earthenware probably has more flexibility and can deflect more than the stoneware before breaking. The stoneware/high fired clays, while tighter and harder, are likely more brittle under this type of test, and can't deflect much at all before giving way and snapping.

I don't think you're right about this. I think "hardness", too, depends more on composition of clay body and that clay body being fired to maturity than on temperature. I'm almost certain a cone 6 porcelain fired to maturity is just as "hard" as a cone 10 porcelain fired to maturity and, after reading about Pete's test, I would guess that a cone 04 earthenware fired to maturity is just as hard, if not harder, than any cone 10 clay.

Maybe Matt can pull up something about hardness or, at least, chime in here with his opinion.


As far as the red earthenware goes, the redart recipe doesn’t look like it has a lot flux in it, so I would think that it is porous like other red earthenware. I wonder how much flexibility does play a role, he did mention a cone 1 firing didn’t make it stronger, which I assume means it was just as strong. Could the high iron content of red clays have something to do with the results?

About difference between cone 6 porcelain and 10, from what I have read there are more and longer mullite crystals at higher temperatures, it would be nice to know how much of a difference it makes. Here is an interesting paper on the subject that seems relevant.... Mullite development

It would be interesting to compare a vitrified 6 and 10, under glazes with similar compression (or how ever you would do a fair comparison), then put them through a series of tests. Until then, I'll rely on everyone’s real life experience, because I only fire to 6. I'm really only curious though, cone 6 has proven to be strong and durable enough for my needs.

On a similar subject, Matt and Dave’s clays have published results on there website in the science section, showing how a cone 6 gloss glaze, using the right amount of boron, can be more durable than a 10.