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Magnolia Mud Research

Member Since 28 May 2016
Offline Last Active Today, 01:15 PM
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#126569 Ian Currie Test Tiles Forums?

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 11 May 2017 - 11:11 PM

It looks ok,

The key is keeping track of what is being removed and adjusting for it.

I will review your summary tomorrow again.

The bookkeeping is tedious!!

LT


#126555 Ian Currie Test Tiles Forums?

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 11 May 2017 - 06:40 PM

Joseph,
 
I did a full Currie grid test program a few semesters back.  I cut overall volume of glaze to about 1/3 of his recommendations, and only mixed 'batches' for the four corners.  The glaze mixtures for the remaining 31 spots were created using syringes to produce just enough glaze for each spot.  It was easy to figure out how much glaze was needed to cover each spot on the grid tile and to work from that to how much is needed from each corner batch.  The limitation ultimately depended on the smallest amount that can be measured accuratly with the syringes on hand. Everything then scales from that amount.  All the calcs were done in a simple spreadsheet so I only needed to squirt so&so ml of slurry from each corner bucket into a pill bottle, shake(not stirred), pour onto the proper place, rinse the pill bottle, and repeat.  In the end I still had significant leftovers in the four corners, but much less than if I had exactly followed Currie's program.
   
My conclusion for his 'program' for the overall exercise was to make it overly simple to potters that are intimidated by arithmetic.
 
Overall, the approach of using volume blending along with the multi axial line blends is both sound and efficient.  The large batch sizes are to reduce the effect of small random measurement errors.  It can improve precision, not necessarily enhance accuracy.

 

LT




#126219 What Type Of Sand? To Add To Clay.

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 05 May 2017 - 12:58 PM

Joseph,

 

Agreed. 

 

Having some 'grit' in porcelain does create interesting surface textures -- both visually and tactilely.  Try using some local sandy clay, especially yellow and orange clay. 

 

I like using clay from our ponds as an exterior slip to cups and bowls and glazing only the interior surface or wedging it into white clay - like porcelain - to add some excitement to an otherwise boring surfaces. 

 

Lots of ways to modify a bag of clay to make it your own.

 

LT




#126124 Making Glazes

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 03 May 2017 - 11:24 AM

GreyBird asked:

   "is the Magnesium Carb supposed to be white?"

 

answer:  Yes.

 

My rutile is  was purchased ~ 10 years ago and has a tan color  closer to brown than white.

 

Pure Titanium dioxide, the major component in rutile, is pure white.  Rutile is an ore, containing a measurable amount of iron, from which pure Titanium dioxide is extracted.  

 

LT




#125842 Qotw: The Power Grid Has Gone Down In Your Area A...

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 26 April 2017 - 05:16 PM

What I find interesting from this discussion so far is that the non-pottery consequences of unavailability of electric power  for the coming 365 days has not been considered. 

 

I can't make pots when there is no ice cream available at snack time.  And, while I do enjoy walking 2 miles to the store for an ice cream bar, I don't really want to tote  that bag of clay back to the studio because there is no power at the gas station to pump gas into the truck that I normally use to go get the clay and ice cream.  But wait a minute, I can't buy ice cream at the store when there is no power to keep it frozen or run the cash register to make change for by fiver.

 

Thus, I will sun bake my pots, just like I did when I was 4 years old.

 

LT




#125804 Alternative For Demo Throwing At Outdoor Events

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 25 April 2017 - 10:39 PM

Use a small gasoline electric generator. I used one for lighting about six years ago runs for several hours on a gallon of gas. About the size of a desk drawer.

LT


#125743 Kiln Conversion Updraft Downdraft Chimney?

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 24 April 2017 - 03:48 PM

Joel,
  
One way to better control of the fan is to add a tee in the air line between the blower (fan) and the burner to split the air into two streams.  Install a butterfly valve on the side of tee and use it to divert air away from the burner. Run the blower without throttling the air intake to the blower.  The blower will stay cool, and you will have control over air to the burner. 
 
Re the 'yellows' along with the 'eggy' smells could be due to odorizer added to the propane to alert you of leaks.  Some regions mandate that gaseous fuels have the odorizer to alert everyone for leaking gas.  In the US it is required in natural gas, not sure about bottled propane.  The favorite odorizers here are sulfur based.  Check your fuel supplier.
 
LT




#125699 Heat Gun Options

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 23 April 2017 - 12:31 PM

The heat gun costs more, is heavier, and can ignite paper and cloth and will melt plastic bats and spash pans; the hair dryer does not have those qualities.  :D 
 
I have both and prefer the hair dryer because it is lighter and I don't have to worry about where I place it when I am not holding it. 
 
LT




#125697 Recommend Me: A Glaze Material Book For Foundation Principles.

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 23 April 2017 - 12:07 PM

Joseph,
 
My recommended list of sources for basic glaze knowhow was posted last year here:
http://community.cer...hy/#entry116234
 
Robin Hopper's books "The Ceramic Spectrum" and "Making Marks" (available from CAD bookstore) are good starting points also but his approach is less chemically oriented and more experimental -- empirical.  Robin understood the chemistry but was interested in the outcome, not the process.
 
Potters seem to have concocted a pseudo-chemical glaze vocabulary that makes sense only to potters, so when reading a real chemistry textbook you need to be aware of the differences in the meaning of ordinary familiar words such as "flux," "melting," "bonding," ... ; modern silicate melt science does not use the Seger "unity formula".
 
Remember this ain't rocket science, it's just playing with mud and hot rocks.

 
LT




#125620 A Question About Flashing Slips

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 20 April 2017 - 11:40 PM

Spray soda ash (or bakiing soda) on unglazed bisque ware before loading the ware into the kiln. You can get "flashing " on most clay bodies with this technique. Slips can help too. You don't have to have a salt or soda or wood kiln to get the effects.

Test test test
vary how much where you spray and where you don't spray

LT


#125381 Pottery Knowledge Quiz Of The Week (Pkqw): Week 3

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 14 April 2017 - 11:32 AM

Peterson's textbook 4ed. is, by far, the best of the 20 or so studio ceramics texts I have read. 

 

LT




#125135 Epoxy Thickener?

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 09 April 2017 - 01:37 PM

If what you need is a "filler" to take up space in a porous object, consider adding crushed porcelain powder. 

The epoxy will remain clear but the filler will be the color of the porcelain.

 

LT




#125117 Getting Underglaze Onto Greenware With Brush Strokes

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 09 April 2017 - 10:38 AM

Wet the surface before starting to paint to slow the removal of water from the underglaze being applied. 




#125116 2Nd Newbie Question - Resist Ideas For Holes In Pendants

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 09 April 2017 - 10:35 AM

I have 'plugged' holes to keep glaze out with wood toothpicks, twisted pieces of paper, spaghetti, wax, and Elmer's glue. 

 

Always remove the plugs, or at least wipe the plugs clean of glaze, because the plugs will burn out but the glaze on the plug will not.
 
LT




#124898 What To Use For Marking Bottom Of Glaze Tests

Posted by Magnolia Mud Research on 05 April 2017 - 07:53 PM

I use a mixture of red iron oxide and maganese dioxide about half and half by volume and suspend it in water,

sometimes with a pinch of ball clay to keep in suspended. 

Or make a paste and treat it like a pan of watercolor.  Wet brush with water, load brush from pan, apply to tile.

Apply it with a fine watercolor brush. 

fires into the clay body at any temperature from bisque firing to cone 10.

Does not fuse to kiln shelf. 

 

LT