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Magnolia Mud Research

Member Since 28 May 2016
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:58 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Kiln Conversion Updraft Downdraft Chimney?

Yesterday, 03:48 PM

One way to better control of the fan is to add a tee in the air line between the blower (fan) and the burner to split the air into two streams.  Install a butterfly valve on the side of tee and use it to divert air away from the burner. Run the blower without throttling the air intake to the blower.  The blower will stay cool, and you will have control over air to the burner. 
Re the 'yellows' along with the 'eggy' smells could be due to odorizer added to the propane to alert you of leaks.  Some regions mandate that gaseous fuels have the odorizer to alert everyone for leaking gas.  In the US it is required in natural gas, not sure about bottled propane.  The favorite odorizers here are sulfur based.  Check your fuel supplier.

In Topic: Show Me Your Handy Dandy Spray Booth

Yesterday, 03:30 PM

Assuming that your 'cardboard box with a squirrel fan'  worked until the box was demolished, why not make a box using treated 4x2's and sheets of fiberglass roofing

[similar to  http://www.homedepot...00423/100038031
to replace the cardboard box.  It would be light weight, easily handled and hold up to outdoor weather.

In Topic: Pottery Knowledge Quiz Of The Week (Pkqw): Week 3

Yesterday, 08:10 AM

John, et .al.,


I fully agree that any glaze should be stable for use as the maker designed the object (including the glaze) to be used. 


I understand your point of view regarding the frits used in a glaze, and agree that the frit itself should also be 'stable' for use as the frit is intended to be used - as an intermediate ingredient between raw materials and a properly formulated glass (or glaze).   


My interpretation of Peterson's entire paragraph, from which Pres drew the quoted answer to his question, was exactly what you were emphasizing, even though she did not explicitly say that.  My background and experience just assumed that a frit maker (because, after all, he is a frit maker by trade) would know that just melting lead and silica together would not be sufficient to convert the lead to a 'stable' non-toxic and insoluble (in water) state .  You explanation shows that my (and probably Peterson's) assumption could be a false assumption.


You have provided an excellent example of why generalized statements in textbooks (and in forum discussions, and magazine articles) can be misleading in many ways unless carefully written to limit application to the appropriate context.  The same goes for simplified explanations of the many processes used in the production of ceramic objects.
Thank you for pointing out a consequence of generalization and for providing a complete answer to my question.

In Topic: Heat Gun Options

23 April 2017 - 12:31 PM

The heat gun costs more, is heavier, and can ignite paper and cloth and will melt plastic bats and spash pans; the hair dryer does not have those qualities.  :D 
I have both and prefer the hair dryer because it is lighter and I don't have to worry about where I place it when I am not holding it. 

In Topic: Recommend Me: A Glaze Material Book For Foundation Principles.

23 April 2017 - 12:07 PM

My recommended list of sources for basic glaze knowhow was posted last year here:
Robin Hopper's books "The Ceramic Spectrum" and "Making Marks" (available from CAD bookstore) are good starting points also but his approach is less chemically oriented and more experimental -- empirical.  Robin understood the chemistry but was interested in the outcome, not the process.
Potters seem to have concocted a pseudo-chemical glaze vocabulary that makes sense only to potters, so when reading a real chemistry textbook you need to be aware of the differences in the meaning of ordinary familiar words such as "flux," "melting," "bonding," ... ; modern silicate melt science does not use the Seger "unity formula".
Remember this ain't rocket science, it's just playing with mud and hot rocks.