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Member Since 23 Apr 2016
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#126696 Clay Trap Suggestions?

Posted by Sputty on 15 May 2017 - 02:37 AM

Just make one. Far cheaper.


Bricolage ingénierie poterie


Scroll down to where it says 'Bac de décantation', and follow the pictures.

You don't need to understand French to see what's going on here; you can scale it up/down to suit any vessels/pipes you have lying around, or what space you have to play with.

#126422 Soda Firing Techniques

Posted by Sputty on 09 May 2017 - 02:25 AM

As far as books go:


'Soda, Clay and Fire' - Gail Nichols

'Soda Glazing' - Ruthanne Tudball

'Salt Glazing' - Phil Rogers


...no doubt there are many more.


There is an obvious cross-over between soda glazing and salt glazing - techniques are similar, slips are similar, liner glazes are similar - so any good book on salt glazing will be invaluable (hence the Rogers book in the list above), even if you use soda. Plus, you might just figure that your prefer salt to soda, as I did!

#125942 The Great Pottery Throw Down

Posted by Sputty on 29 April 2017 - 10:28 AM


 you can get full episodes on YouTube legally now.





Season 2, First episode is available here:


The Great Pottery Throw Down Season 2 Episode 1

The rest follow on.


Actually, there seem to be several different 'channels' with the same material - I've no idea if any of them are 'official'.

#125830 Spiral Crazing On Base

Posted by Sputty on 26 April 2017 - 10:57 AM

I've made many an earthenware pot with crazed glazing in my time, but never one with that pattern! Very well done!

I can only assume that the crazing has followed some stress lines in the body, but that's just a guess.

If the glaze is prone to crazing, you'll probably find that the other pots follow suit shortly. Is it a new glaze, or perhaps a new body? Have you tried stressing the glaze with boiling water?

I think every single (glazed) earthenware pot in my possession is crazed - new, old, it doesn't matter; some of those are made by very well known potters, as well as by me.

Do I care? No. Is my opinion universal? No.

  • oly likes this

#125502 Qotw: Do You Like Other Forms Of Art And Is There A Cross Over To Your Cerami...

Posted by Sputty on 18 April 2017 - 03:24 PM

I was doing a lot of sumi ink painting for a while. I never got any good at it, didn't practice enough or have a teacher. Kind of got out of it, but I should get back into it. It is highly enjoyable. I tried incorporating the sumi stuff into my ceramics, but I was never good enough to like the paintings on my pots. There are some people who translate that skill to pottery well. (I don't know who the artist is but here is the picture:


Jesus Minguez III, bottom of this page.

#124695 Engobe And Glaze

Posted by Sputty on 02 April 2017 - 02:57 PM

I agree with Min. I use the Robin Hopper slip recipe myself - it's always worked beautifully. No need to opacify with anything. Just apply the slip a little more thickly. Think hot melted chocolate.


I'm assuming you mean this recipe:


Ball Clay - 75

China Clay - 10

Silica - 10

Feldspar (any) - 5

#124342 Shiboridashi Grooves

Posted by Sputty on 27 March 2017 - 04:20 AM

The grooves exist to allow tea to escape whilst holding back the leaves. Some examples start halfway up the pot, some at the bottom.

#123846 Seeley Olivia Kiln? Who Made It?

Posted by Sputty on 16 March 2017 - 11:17 AM

You see, this forum is magic, isn't it? You ask a question, and less than an hour later the answer arrives. It doesn't even need the intervention of another forum member!


Good luck with the element transplant!

#123721 Looking For A Reliable Emmanuel Cooper Transparent Earthenware Glaze 1050...

Posted by Sputty on 14 March 2017 - 03:19 AM

The glaze is going over velvets but its bowls that children will be painting themselves

so not really into using lead :(


OK - best not to let brush-sucking children anywhere near lead!


In which case, triolaz's suggestion will be as good a start as any.


Scarva have Frit 3124, although not Frit 3249. The latter is a low-expansion borosilicate frit, but if you look at Scarva, they do stock something they call a 'low expansion borax frit' - it's going to do the same job, isn't it, and possibly even be the same thing. So you're all set.


You might find some of the underglaze colour responses... erm... surprising, but you'll only know by trying!




EDIT: Just a thought - are the children going to do the glazing as well as the underglaze decoration, or will you be doing that? The glaze recipe above will not be brushable, or course - you'd have to add CMC or something to enable that.


I used to run pottery workshops for adults with disabilities, and I have to admit that in the end it was easier to just buy a ready-made brush-on transparent glaze to go over their decorated pieces, rather than mess about making my own. That way the students could glaze their own pieces as well as do the underglaze decoration.

#123690 Looking For A Reliable Emmanuel Cooper Transparent Earthenware Glaze 1050...

Posted by Sputty on 13 March 2017 - 04:51 PM

Hi Sinéad -

Are you averse to using a lead frit? In my opinion, the best earthenware glazes (bar none) are lead fluxed - but obviously some don't like the idea. In my experience, the quality is simply impossible to match using anything else. Which isn't to say you can't have a lead-free transparent glaze, but...

Have a think which direction you want to go in.


My own clear, colourless lead glaze was simply:


(White) Earthenware clay - 25% (dried weight)

Lead Bisilicate - 75%


Worked like a charm over slips - deep, glossy, superb. Amazing that such a simple glaze could be so beautiful.


If you insist on no lead, I can probably find some recipes. But they won't be as good ^_^

#122737 Resist Over Glaze?

Posted by Sputty on 22 February 2017 - 04:22 PM


#122297 Unearthing Armenia’S Giant, Ancient Earthenware

Posted by Sputty on 14 February 2017 - 02:53 PM

I found this Smithsonian article interesting.


Unearthing Armenia’s Giant, Ancient Earthenware

#120937 Opacify For Cheaper?

Posted by Sputty on 20 January 2017 - 04:58 AM

Tin is beautiful, no doubt about it.

For my earthenware majolica glaze, I've ended up with 2/3 Zircon, 1/3 Tin, as a compromise (total opacifiers circa 12%). It's still pretty good.

The cost of a 20 litre bucket is still eye-watering, when you're used to preparing stoneware glazes at a few euros/dollars/whatever per gallon.

This is doubly true when you look sideways at the cost of frits used in the same glaze.

But there you go - if you want a certain quality, you just bite the bullet.

#120672 Respirators

Posted by Sputty on 16 January 2017 - 05:28 AM

amy, joseph f on this website found a great one and i got the same kind.  it fits very well with my glasses and is comfortable.  i am computer illiterate but i bet you can find his post on it.  the picture is of bright pink filters.  i do not have one here so i cannot give the name.


I think you mean this comment here - there is indeed a link to a rather fetching mask:


Thank You To Josephf

#119301 Porcelain

Posted by Sputty on 28 December 2016 - 09:12 AM

I believe that the firing range for all the Nano Porcelain slips is given as 1220°C-1280°C.


(See the Q&Afor Nano Colours NPO031 Jet Black Porcelain Casting Slip)