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Member Since 23 Apr 2016
Offline Last Active Apr 21 2017 10:19 AM

#125502 Qotw: Do You Like Other Forms Of Art And Is There A Cross Over To Your Cerami...

Posted by Sputty on 18 April 2017 - 03:24 PM

I was doing a lot of sumi ink painting for a while. I never got any good at it, didn't practice enough or have a teacher. Kind of got out of it, but I should get back into it. It is highly enjoyable. I tried incorporating the sumi stuff into my ceramics, but I was never good enough to like the paintings on my pots. There are some people who translate that skill to pottery well. (I don't know who the artist is but here is the picture:


Jesus Minguez III, bottom of this page.

#124695 Engobe And Glaze

Posted by Sputty on 02 April 2017 - 02:57 PM

I agree with Min. I use the Robin Hopper slip recipe myself - it's always worked beautifully. No need to opacify with anything. Just apply the slip a little more thickly. Think hot melted chocolate.


I'm assuming you mean this recipe:


Ball Clay - 75

China Clay - 10

Silica - 10

Feldspar (any) - 5

#124342 Shiboridashi Grooves

Posted by Sputty on 27 March 2017 - 04:20 AM

The grooves exist to allow tea to escape whilst holding back the leaves. Some examples start halfway up the pot, some at the bottom.

#123846 Seeley Olivia Kiln? Who Made It?

Posted by Sputty on 16 March 2017 - 11:17 AM

You see, this forum is magic, isn't it? You ask a question, and less than an hour later the answer arrives. It doesn't even need the intervention of another forum member!


Good luck with the element transplant!

#123721 Looking For A Reliable Emmanuel Cooper Transparent Earthenware Glaze 1050...

Posted by Sputty on 14 March 2017 - 03:19 AM

The glaze is going over velvets but its bowls that children will be painting themselves

so not really into using lead :(


OK - best not to let brush-sucking children anywhere near lead!


In which case, triolaz's suggestion will be as good a start as any.


Scarva have Frit 3124, although not Frit 3249. The latter is a low-expansion borosilicate frit, but if you look at Scarva, they do stock something they call a 'low expansion borax frit' - it's going to do the same job, isn't it, and possibly even be the same thing. So you're all set.


You might find some of the underglaze colour responses... erm... surprising, but you'll only know by trying!




EDIT: Just a thought - are the children going to do the glazing as well as the underglaze decoration, or will you be doing that? The glaze recipe above will not be brushable, or course - you'd have to add CMC or something to enable that.


I used to run pottery workshops for adults with disabilities, and I have to admit that in the end it was easier to just buy a ready-made brush-on transparent glaze to go over their decorated pieces, rather than mess about making my own. That way the students could glaze their own pieces as well as do the underglaze decoration.

#123690 Looking For A Reliable Emmanuel Cooper Transparent Earthenware Glaze 1050...

Posted by Sputty on 13 March 2017 - 04:51 PM

Hi Sinéad -

Are you averse to using a lead frit? In my opinion, the best earthenware glazes (bar none) are lead fluxed - but obviously some don't like the idea. In my experience, the quality is simply impossible to match using anything else. Which isn't to say you can't have a lead-free transparent glaze, but...

Have a think which direction you want to go in.


My own clear, colourless lead glaze was simply:


(White) Earthenware clay - 25% (dried weight)

Lead Bisilicate - 75%


Worked like a charm over slips - deep, glossy, superb. Amazing that such a simple glaze could be so beautiful.


If you insist on no lead, I can probably find some recipes. But they won't be as good ^_^

#122737 Resist Over Glaze?

Posted by Sputty on 22 February 2017 - 04:22 PM


#122297 Unearthing Armenia’S Giant, Ancient Earthenware

Posted by Sputty on 14 February 2017 - 02:53 PM

I found this Smithsonian article interesting.


Unearthing Armenia’s Giant, Ancient Earthenware

#120937 Opacify For Cheaper?

Posted by Sputty on 20 January 2017 - 04:58 AM

Tin is beautiful, no doubt about it.

For my earthenware majolica glaze, I've ended up with 2/3 Zircon, 1/3 Tin, as a compromise (total opacifiers circa 12%). It's still pretty good.

The cost of a 20 litre bucket is still eye-watering, when you're used to preparing stoneware glazes at a few euros/dollars/whatever per gallon.

This is doubly true when you look sideways at the cost of frits used in the same glaze.

But there you go - if you want a certain quality, you just bite the bullet.

#120672 Respirators

Posted by Sputty on 16 January 2017 - 05:28 AM

amy, joseph f on this website found a great one and i got the same kind.  it fits very well with my glasses and is comfortable.  i am computer illiterate but i bet you can find his post on it.  the picture is of bright pink filters.  i do not have one here so i cannot give the name.


I think you mean this comment here - there is indeed a link to a rather fetching mask:


Thank You To Josephf

#119301 Porcelain

Posted by Sputty on 28 December 2016 - 09:12 AM

I believe that the firing range for all the Nano Porcelain slips is given as 1220°C-1280°C.


(See the Q&Afor Nano Colours NPO031 Jet Black Porcelain Casting Slip)

#119232 Mary Wondrausch

Posted by Sputty on 27 December 2016 - 08:51 AM

(Site Admins - I don't quite know where to put this post, so please move if it you feel it would be better elsewhere!)


Mary Wondrausch, extraordinary slipware potter, died on Christmas Day. She was 93 (I think...).


Utterly painterly, truly inspirational, a lovely, lovely person. I think it counts as a good life well spent!


A short film:


Mary Wondrausch


(Plenty more video clips of Mary all over the place.)


I have a lovely bowl of hers, in use, as she would have wanted!

#119230 Raw Glazing At Cone 6-8?

Posted by Sputty on 27 December 2016 - 08:30 AM

Oly - there are a number of older threads dealing with raw-glazing (or once-fired) pots here, and it's definitely worth a browse of those.


More generally, it might be worth investing some of your Christmas money in a book or two:


Fran Tristram's Single Firing - the Pros and Cons (A&C Black Ceramics Handbooks) is a modern take on the subject, and is readily available.


Dennis Parks' A Potter's Guide to Raw Glazing and Oil Firing (Pitman) is a much older book, which you would have to find second hand.


There are a couple of reasons for suggesting books.


First, there is much more to raw glazing than glaze formulation - the design of your pots needs to be thought about, in the same way you would if you were going to slip them. Cross-sections need to be even and not too thin, handles need to be securely attached, everything needs to be thought about over again. You'll be getting a leather hard pot wet all over again, and it has to be able to stand up to that!


So, the books guide you through all of that. Glazing techniques, firing schedules - it's all change.


Second, there are a stack of recipes for you to try!


If you enjoy working with slip, you'll enjoy raw glazing. I sort of doubt you'll save much time, and to be honest doubt that you'll save a huge amount in electricity either, but you might just find a method of working, a rhythm, that you love.

  • oly likes this

#119225 No Pour Hole?

Posted by Sputty on 27 December 2016 - 04:43 AM

I have two molds that have no pour holes one is a duck the other is some kind of baking dish. One side is caved in and the other sticks out they fit perfectly together.Please any insight will be greatly appreciated.


Press-moulds rather than slip-moulds?

#118814 where to find a good hole cutter

Posted by Sputty on 21 December 2016 - 07:28 AM

Bullet casings. For the cheap homemade tool.


Or just bullets. Once you've got your eye in...