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Member Since 31 Mar 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 10:35 AM

#87712 Cornish Stone Substitution

Posted by Min on 24 June 2015 - 08:35 AM

Dolomite.................... 0.37
Custer Feldspar............. 30.43
Wollastonite................ 3.30
Kaolin...................... 12.85
Silica...................... 29.29
Nepheline Syenite........... 23.75


recipe from here: http://digitalfire.c..._stone_194.html

#87559 Pug Mills :)

Posted by Min on 20 June 2015 - 10:28 PM

It's more than just the time savings of recycling clay if that is the reason for buying one.


-they save a lot of wear and tear on the body than manually recycling the clay

-you tend to not think twice about wasting time trying to rescue a piece, into the pugger it goes if it's a little wonky

-blending clay bodies or adding grog / sand

-getting the clay to the consistency that you need it for specific forms


I kind off think of it as being similar to a car hoist, yes a mechanic can use car jacks but it is so much easier to use a hydraulic lift. It's a tool and I love tools that save time and effort. Yes, you can just toss the clay scraps but if you have years and years of clay work in front of you I can't see not having a pugger.


Is the one you are looking at stainless and with a vacuum? Is was hard to tell from the Bailey page.

(I've got the MSV25 Stainless with vacuum and love it. I have used it with a handle die that I just clamped onto the end, it makes a really good extruder too)

#87490 Glaze And Slip Casting

Posted by Min on 19 June 2015 - 09:23 PM

I came across a technique I haven't seen before where glaze is poured and swirled around inside a mould then slip is poured in after it. Anybody know anything more about this or is doing this? 


It's from this site: http://thedesignfile...-serene-series/



#87469 Brand Identification

Posted by Min on 19 June 2015 - 03:32 PM

This is an offshoot from GEP's potterscast interview. 


Fairly simple and short pdf on branding from Paul Blais of The Potters Business Workshop.





#87225 Feel Like I Am Hitting A Brick Wall - Perhaps You Have Experienced This?

Posted by Min on 15 June 2015 - 10:34 PM

I'm guessing you were working really hard getting everything ready for your sale this past weekend, then you had the work / stress of selling pots all weekend then you got to pack everything up and drive home and unpack it all. I'm also going to assume that there were other potters there who have had the benefit of more years of working in clay than your 4. Give yourself a hug, go have a cup of tea and a rest and I'm sure things will become easier. 


Rome wasn't built in a day. Keep making pots.


Min (mother of 4 daughters, been there, done that, bought the t-shirt and wore it out)

#86908 Zinc Oxide And Suspension.

Posted by Min on 10 June 2015 - 02:54 PM

if you use a lot its great for making pinholes in glazes too 

#86864 Qotw: How Important Is Membership To Ceramic Associations To You?

Posted by Min on 09 June 2015 - 05:36 PM

Not a group joiner. Tried the local "guild" and it was a waste. But I'd be highly suspicious of any group that would accept me as a member.


then we must all be under suspicion here  :)

#86848 How Does This Potter Produce This Effect?

Posted by Min on 09 June 2015 - 12:40 PM



about 4:12 minutes in


(sorry couldn't figure out how to embed the video directly)

#86668 Can Anyone Suggest A Glaze To Match The One In This Photo?

Posted by Min on 07 June 2015 - 12:19 PM

Diesel Clay,


Thanks for the link.  I have been looking for something like the Alberta slip glaze for my red stone ware.  Going to give it a try.  Although it is kinda pricey.  The Alberta clay locally is $132 for 44 lbs.


This is kind of the reverse price mark up that we pay in Canada for American goods. I can get Alberta slip for $50 for a 20 kg bag.

To buy cobalt carb locally costs me $68- for 500 grams versus $25- lb from US Pigments. I buy as much of my raw materials in the States as I can as it's unusual for materials to be cheaper here.

#81734 It's Too Big..she Said

Posted by Min on 15 May 2015 - 11:34 PM

Customer comes into my tent and sees my lazy susan set. It was a lazy susan with a sign on it saying "Lazy Susan" so people knew it wasn't just a platter. She very loudly said "Well, how do you think that would make Susan feel?" She was super indignant and stomped away in a huff.

I've told this one before but it's still my favourite goofy customer comment.

#81704 Glaze Testing

Posted by Min on 15 May 2015 - 02:09 PM

Don't beat yourself up over this, you learned something and in the grand scheme of things thats what counts. There are a gazillion horrible glaze recipes out there, some will say they are not food safe but most won't. 


3 part article on barium here:







#81486 Rolling Pins

Posted by Min on 13 May 2015 - 11:27 AM

Definitely a nice way to get flower in your flour...its a bloomin' nice roller, methinks ;)


Groan! Thank goodness I didn't post a picture of the giraffe one  :P

#81484 More Questions About Glazes

Posted by Min on 13 May 2015 - 11:19 AM

Actually, I would suggest a couple changes to your list.


Gerstley Borate can be subbed with 3134 most of the time with glaze calc program. If you post the recipe using it here someone could rework it for you. I still use Gerstley Borate in some recipes but you can probably get away without it and some of the problems it causes. On the other hand it's cheap so no biggie if you pick some up and try it.


Lithium Carb can only be subbed with spodumene but again you need to change the recipe to fit it in. I would go with the lithium carb as you will only need a few percentages at the most in a glaze.


Silica, 200 mesh is fine for most glazes. Some glazes call for 325 mesh to help reduce crazing. 


For iron oxide and rutile there can be a great difference in quality from different suppliers. I order all my colouring oxides from US Pigments. For the iron the high purity red one and for rutile the light one. 


Alumina hydrate, for making kiln wash.


Not sure what eps is? Typo for epk? Yup to that. 


There has been a bit of confusion with the replacement for the old G200, I would talk to your supplier and see what they are carrying in your part of the world. 


Ball clay, I'm on the other side of the continent from you so I don't know what's available for you. Again, I would go with what the local place recommends.


I would also pick up some Minspar and dolomite and or talc.


For kiln posts I would suggest getting more of the height of the pots that you make the most of. You will need 3 of the 1/2" ones to raise your bottom shelf off the floor with. You will likely need the bottom and probably top shelf to have a wider space between shelves than the middle of the kiln, unless you have a 3 zone controller. So, taller posts needed for the second shelf up and and one at the top. I use broken bits of kiln shelves for adding a titch more height so would probably get more of the 1/2" ones. You need to have 1 element between shelves at a minimum so no point in getting a lot of short posts unless you are using them to increase the height of other posts.


For bisque firing I would just get the 04 cones if you have to buy them by the full box. If you can buy single ones then I would get a few of the 05 and 07 and use those just until you are comfortable with your bisque firing. It doesn't need to be as exact as the glaze firing.  If you are firing ^6 then I would get 5,6 and 7 but skip the 4.


I wear nitrile gloves when handling glaze materials. If you don't have one already then a definite must is a well fitting respirator/mask with a P100 rating.

#81459 More Questions About Glazes

Posted by Min on 12 May 2015 - 10:51 PM

Not sure if I understood your questions, but if you are asking about bentonite, yes, I would get some of the white firing kind (or macaloid or veegum) if you are planning on doing clear/transparent glazes, you don't need a lot, 1/4 lb would be plenty for now. I would also get a tiny amount of epsom salts, this might be cheaper at a drugstore. If your glaze is low on clay the bentonite will help it play better. I don't use deflocs as often as flocs, would probably skip the deflocs for now.

As for glaze thickness when Britt talks about the thickness of a dime he is talking about after the glaze is dipped and dried on the bisque. Easy way to see thickness is to take an unfired glazed test tile and scratch through it. Do 2 tiles and keep one unfired for reference. When you do your tiles do 3 different thicknesses, 1 dip over entire tile, then when the sheen is off the glaze redip it about 1/2 way down the tile then do a third dip on one upper corner of the tile. (I like using tall narrow tiles, leaving a wide unglazed strip to allow for runs at the bottom of vertical tiles)

For bisque firing just fire to whatever you usually would, probably 05 - 04 and stick to that for future loads so each load of bisque is about the same porosity. So for your first round of tests I would do the 7 glazes without underglazes or stains plus the 7 glazes on another set of test tiles with the underglazes or stains. (some stains have an effect on glaze melt)

If a glaze looks okay on a test tile and it's for functional pots I craze test it (320 oven then plunged in cold water X 3 cycles then rub sumi / India ink on it to see if its crazed). If it passes my craze test then I use it on a mini pot to see what it really looks like. Seems a glaze can look great on a test tile only to look meh on a real pot. Getting a well fitting clear sounds easy but I've found it one of the harder things to do.

I would also suggest starting a code of some sort that works for you to mark your tiles with and keep good records.

Hope you are feeling better :)

#81428 Rolling Pins

Posted by Min on 12 May 2015 - 02:40 PM

Came across this site on Etsy for laser carved rolling pins. The larger ones are approx 2 1/2" diameter X 10" rolling surface. Nice to see some alternatives to the ones at potters supply stores. (there are 3 pages of designs, sets of small rollers plus the larger ones)