I didn't take the original quote as being anything more than an expression of one artists private sentiments about their work. It was an anonymous post on the Bailey Ceramics blog, read by fellow artists. Yes, I can relate to parts of it. No, I'm not having it emblazoned across my T-shirt. Since it was posted for other artists I didn't read into it any assigning of guilt. I took it as giving kudos to fellow artists.
I feel that the original intent the author had in writing the piece is being extrapolated upon to an illogical degree. If the sentiments were never intended to be viewed by the buyer then there is no guilt trip.
Same clay as bowl, no flocs added, yogurt consistancy, slip put through a 60 mesh screen then thumped on the table to remove air bubbles. Sherril tiny red kidney shaped rib, but any really flexible rib works. Slip done right after bowl thrown. Fast wheel with a slow hand movement or slow wheel with a faster hand movement, whatever works to get the design you are looking for. I prefer a looser spiral so usually pull through the slip with slight in and out movement. It's lots of fun, if you mess it up just start over again. For about a 16" or so diameter bowl I'll spread about 1/3 cup of slip in it then start in the middle and work outwards, removing a lot of the slip. There isn't much slip left between the lines.
I found they work best if there is some clay in what you are trying to thicken. On Marks link it does say it works with stains, maybe a base coat of AptII then your overglaze on top of that if it doesn't contain clay?
I used to fire a kiln that had tiny peep holes. I reamed them out to be larger and it really helped. I also painted a thin stripe of my black ceramic "ink" down the length of the cones. The stripe really pops out when the kiln gets hot. I've also done this using a ceramic pencil, I know this is not supposed to be done, since it might flux the cones slightly, but it really works. I'm with Bruce in putting the cones closer to the spys, too much hassle loading with a clear path to the back of the shelf.
Okay, I'll preface what I'm saying by stating that I've never done this and likely never would but....
I was doing an outdoors market a few years ago and the women beside us had been told by the organizer she would need help during the market since it was so busy. She was a lady from out of town with nobody local to help her and didn't want to pay for a hotel etc to bring a friend with her. So each day she had hired someone, from Craigslist, to come and help her then at the end of the day she paid them with her hand dyed yarn. She does the same thing at the bigger winter markets and has been doing this for years. Maybe if you feel you really need help during a market then a spin off idea of asking a local guild or art center if they could recommend an eager local potter, who doesn't sell their work, is interested in helping out in trade for pots might be a better option than sharing a booth.
At first read this question seems very simple, I get satisfaction when taking a pot from the kiln that has good structure and is technically pleasing.
When thinking about the question further, If I have spent many hours trying to come up with a solution to a problem, usually involves a fair bit of teeth gnashing and blubbering, at the end of the day there is great satisfaction in knowing I have worked it out. So I guess the short answer to your question is that I get the most satisfaction from fixing my failures. I’ve had a whole lot of failures so perhaps being tenacious, (read stubborn), probably helps.
Hope this doesn’t sound like a load of fairy toots and pixie dust.
Seattle Pottery Supply has some. It's been a couple years since I looked at them, I seem to remember they looked kinda cheap. SPS is bad for not posting pics of stock, I guess this probably doesn't help any does it?
If you do after the bisque you can fill the holes with some slip.
What makes pieces break is a buildup of steam and pressure. If the steam can escape it should be fine. You could also dry it in an over for a few days...
It is amazing what lengths you can go to to fire a piece. Good luck with it.
Um, hate to disagree with you on your first post but there is no need to drill holes in it. Even pots with enclosed air pockets will not explode if fired when dry, any form with a rolled rim or hollow handles for examples. It just takes longer to dry since there is a reduced surface area for the moisture to evaporate from.
If you have a scanner and want a visual record of test tiles without having to keep all of them then lay them flat on the glass and scan a whole page of them at once onto the computer. (snap off the base if you use L shaped ones and write glaze name with a sharpie on tiles)