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Member Since 31 Mar 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:47 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Porcelain And Stilts

Yesterday, 07:47 PM

I just saw mentioned using soft brick as a kiln stilt.... I have no idea what that is, but has me thinking fire brick... Could I use fire brick (coated in kiln wash) as little pads to set fully glazed, slab Christmas ornaments on to fire? Any other ideas?



Wasn't sure if you meant "fully glazed" to mean they are glazed on the front and back? If the ornaments are fully glazed they will stick to the kiln wash on the fire/soft brick.

In Topic: Trying To Figure Out How To Measure Hand-Built Top Before Curving

Yesterday, 07:37 PM



Awesome!! So really make the pot lid upside down?? Very ingenuous!! Thank you,



Yes, make the lid upside down. I don't get the credit for being ingenious though, I learned this from someone else and am just passing it on. Like all things ceramics, it has been done before  :)

In Topic: Clay Weight To Fired Object Ration?

Yesterday, 12:18 PM

Pugged clay is approx 20% water, plus there is a bit LOI (stuff that burns off). If you know how much your clay shrinks and how big you want your finished pot you could work the maths backwards then add a bit more if you are trimming the pot. 

In Topic: Trying To Figure Out How To Measure Hand-Built Top Before Curving

Yesterday, 11:48 AM

There is an easier way to do this. Roll out a slab a bit larger than the mouth of the pot. Place a strip of very thin dry cleaners plastic over the rim of the pot. If the pot has a gallery skip that step and just dust with cornstarch/cornflour. Now take your slab and place in on the pot. Gently press down the slab in the middle and working outwards to make an upside down dome, sponge works well. Roughly cut the excess clay off the outside of the slab so the weight of it doesn't pull up the slab. Leave the slab on the pot until it stiffens up then remove it and finish the edge. There will be a mark on the lid from where the top of the pot or gallery was, use that as your line to work from. Also, make registration marks as the pot likely isn't symmetrical. I used to make oval pots / lids like this, it works.

In Topic: What A Mess

06 December 2016 - 06:30 PM



A mug, just like the turquoise - same style same glaze combo, but this one works, it had been out of the kiln for a month in the pottery shop. Placed in a 170*F oven for 1 1/2 hours. Then placed in a stock pot with warm water to cover, covered the pot, brought to a boil, then simmered for 6 hours.

Weight after oven - 492 g

Weight after simmer - 502 g - that makes it 1.02%, right? for Laguna - Miller WC-607 #55 Clay the Avg. Water Absorption 1±%     1.9%

Nope, boiled weight minus original weight divided by original weight times 100

therefore comes to 2.03% absorption. But, this is for your glazed mug right? So, for an unglazed test sample (way this test is supposed to be done) the absorption could be.......?  If a test with bare clay only came to 2.03% I would rule that out as the problem. Not sure we can do that with a glazed sample though. Watcha think? Was your sample mug made from the same lot number of clay as the weeping pots?