One thing I sometimes do after I get a board of mugs done is quickly insert (and then remove) one of those red solo cups into the mugs to true them up. If the mug is a bit soft and I distort it while attaching the handle the solo cup gets it back to round really fast.
Silica is up a bit from original recipe. Silica and alumina still below "limits" for functional glaze and boron still high. I used data for FX (CA1) ball clay, I'm guessing that is what you have but I'm not sure. I'm know your materials are going to be different form mine half a world away but this should get you close to your original glaze. If you use zircopax for the opacifier it is going to up the silica levels a bit. Adding 10 zircopax brings silica up to just below "limits" minimum for durable glazes.