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Diana Ferreira

Member Since 21 Oct 2011
Offline Last Active Mar 10 2014 05:41 PM

#16915 Attaching bisque to bisque

Posted by Diana Ferreira on 09 May 2012 - 12:56 PM

When you dry and fire a piece with feet, it is always advisable to keep it on a slab of similar clay. As the slab shrinks during drying or firing, your little feet will stay in place, while moving with the slab. This way, the little feet will not stuck on a kiln shelve. My shrinkage is 17 - 18%. and most during the glaze firing. Since I have used this technique, I have never had feet fell off.

#15895 Basement Studio - Dust Control

Posted by Diana Ferreira on 14 April 2012 - 12:18 PM

Oh how I wish that this forum had a 'like' button, like facebook!

We are cautious at the studio where I work. In total there is about 16 people working in the studio. We wet-mop, and spray when cleaning. The guys who fettle some of the bigger pieces dry, work in the spray booth with the extraction fan on. The owner wants to get a specialized extraction table which is quite an ingenius piece of work. The woodworking factory next to us use these for sanding work. (sucking the dust down into the table, from where it is sucked out of the building.)

But on the whole, I agree with the others. I live in Africa. It is dusty. I grew up in a small farming community and dirt was part of my staple feed, so to say. I am also a RN, and my whole family is all in the medical field. For that reason I do not use antiseptic soaps and cleaners in my house. I do not buy into the hype of using sanitizers, etc. And I might get a mild cold once a year, if that much.

#15116 comments in gallery

Posted by Diana Ferreira on 22 March 2012 - 02:23 PM

I had no computer for more than a month and had no energy to try and get here with my blackberry. But wow, I missed a lot!

People. Please read my OP. My question was: "why is there no comments in the gallery."

Not: Why do you guys on your high horses think that every comment has to be a critique?

What about a simple 'I love your glaze, shape, ... (what ever you like about the piece) And if you think that the piece is dog shite, do not enlarge the image ... lol

Honestly. Seriously. this is a laugh. (Ok, I have to admit that I am pooped. I have orders coming out of my ears after a very good Designer Week with lots of local and International orders and have been working a 7 day week since the beginning of January except for the week that I was crawling around on my hands and knees after a very bad back complaint that got me in ER and Morphine and what not .)

You guys are fighting about the merits of getting down that high horse to comment on some newbie's work. You were once (many moons ago) a newbie. But you know what? sometimes encouragement is good. Stop being arses and think that you are to high and mighty to acknowledge some idiot that is trying to dare play with clay. I mean, how dare they?

Well, that is how a lot of you are coming across.

I know where I am in ceramics. But then I am lucky enough to share studio space with other potters and have contact with more that live in my city. Peers that I idolise and look up to. and if they buy my work for their private collections, that says enough for me.

What I am trying to say is this. A lot of you are spending a lot of time on this site. Use some of that time constructively in being a little bit more human and give. Some old guy gave you encouragement years and eons ago. Pass it forward!

Now I am off to look at the gallery and yes, I will comment on stuff that I like.

Edited to add: I have a major fail on visiting the gallery ... Could only look at a couple of images. the rest just refuse to open. Ugh.

#10547 Making 2 part molds from leather hard originals

Posted by Diana Ferreira on 27 November 2011 - 06:53 AM

You can position your piece in the pouring box, making sure that it is laying straight. We normally draw a horizontal line around the article. And make sure that your 'master' is stable. If it is not, you can prop it up with clay/Plasticine, you can also add some weight to the article to ensure that it does not float around. Pour in your plaster up to the line you drew, Once the plaster is set, you can clean up the plaster line with what ever tools you normally use. You can either clean it with the original in-situ, or remove the master before you clean your surface. Add your locks by drilling holes in the plaster with a coin/round object.
This piece of plaster will be discarded at the end ...

Now you can treat the surface of this plaster mold to prevent it from sticking to your initial cast. Cast plaster over it. now you have your first part of your 2-part mold.
Remove the first cast you did, turn the work around so that the last piece you casted is now on the floor. Treat the surface of the second casting you made, and cast the other half of you 2-part mold.

You obviously know about undercuts, and allowing a pouring area for your slip ...