A reduction soak is not necessary at the end of the firing. If you haven't achieved reduction by then it's too late. For some glazes, however, it helps to do an oxidation soak at the end. I used to do it for my copper reds, as it cleared any muddiness out of the edges where the glaze breaks to white.
Get up to body reduction temps- cone 012 to 08- as quickly as you can while not cracking any pots and maintaining evenness. No sense wasting gas with a really slow climb if everything has been bisqued. Put the kiln into reduction at cone 012-08, and stall out the climb. Hold temperature with the reduction for 45 minutes. If you're trying to carbon trap a shino glaze, then make this a heavy smoky reduction. Then put it into a neutral atmosphere and let it climb to cone 10. Stalling it out in reduction will ensure that you get good reduction throughout the kiln, and climbing in a neutral atmosphere will give you an efficient use of gas.
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