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Member Since 04 Oct 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 02:43 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Brent Cxc - Good Investment?

26 November 2015 - 12:09 PM

My home wheels are Brent (a C and a CXC) i use the CXC almost daily. It's an oldie, but i love it.

The studio where i take lessons has TS. The biggest problem i have with the TS is the touchy foot pedals. They are almost too responsive. And the TS wheel does not slow/stop immediately like my home Brent wheels.

The only thing i dislike about the Brent is the 2 piece splash pan. It leaks if i don't empty it soon enough. If the Brent wheel heads popped off like the TS allowing for a larger seamless splash pan they would be perfect IMO.


TS wheels have 6 adjustments in the control board, so touchiness can be easily adjusted. I've got 11 TS wheels, and I find that the 1/3hp can handle just about anything I do on them. My 1/2hp has never slowed down. The huge splash pans will keep your studio much cleaner than a Brent.

In Topic: What Is This? Is This Mold?

26 November 2015 - 12:06 PM

Probably not mold. But as others have said, make sure the electrical system is dry, and run it on low for several hours to dry out the brick.

In Topic: What Is Terracotta, Really?

25 November 2015 - 10:20 AM

This is a good example of how different industries/cultures have different definitions for the same term. For instance, the folks who paint little slip cast figurines call what they do 'ceramics', ignoring the fact that the word ceramics has a much larger definition. Commercial cone 6 glazes are referred to as 'high fire', whereas studio artists call cone 6 'mid range' and cone 10 'high fire'.


Commercial clays are often advertised as having a very broad temperature range, although they rarely work well at both ranges. Cone 6-10 stoneware clays are a good example- great at 10, underfired at 6. One could say any cone 6 clay is a good porous body at cone 04. In school we just used cone 10 stoneware clay for raku and it worked just fine, so maybe they should start advertising that.


Personally, I always defined terra cotta as a high iron, low firing body. Commercial clay and glaze companies are smart about using key words to define things in a way that will boost sales, hence cone 6 terra cotta, or cone 6 'shino' glazes. They kind of have a similar color to shino glazes, but that's about as far as it goes. Green shino? Really?!? Another is Amaco's Celadon line. Yes, they have a surface quality that is similar to celadon, and they are beautiful glazes, but none of them are what I would consider to be a true celadon. The problem with these labels is that they are falsely 'educating' some folks who don't know otherwise about what shino or celadon glazes really are.

In Topic: Centering Tools

25 November 2015 - 10:05 AM

Centering is not just a position on the wheel. It is a state of being. All these tools do is get the clay into the middle of the wheel, which leaves you with a mass of clay that is not smooth, consistent and homogenous. You must cone the clay at least a couple of times (3 is the magic number) to get it mixed and evened out before worrying about whether or not it's spinning perfectly in the middle of the wheel. If you 'center' the clay with this tool, it will go out of center at you open the clay, because the clay was not coned and mixed. The only time I would recommend using a tool like this is if you have strength or movement limitations.

In Topic: Glaze Cracking And Dropping Off Pot Before Firing.

23 November 2015 - 04:08 PM

There are a lot of glazes out there that look good and people have been using them for years, but they're technically not a great glaze. if you had it tested you may find that it's leaching cobalt, and if you put copper in it, it's very likely to leach.


Intense blues can be had from 0.5% to 1% cobalt in most glazes. 2% is usually overkill and 3% is most certainly too much. If it's taking that much cobalt to give blue, then it's probably because there's something wrong with the glaze.