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Member Since 30 Jul 2011
Offline Last Active Feb 02 2016 01:47 PM

#101091 What Happened To The Guy Who Wanted................

Posted by docweathers on 31 January 2016 - 10:47 PM

I am certainly guilty of not reporting back on results of the advice that I've gotten. I never really thought about anyone giving a hoot since the advisor usually seemed quite knowledgeable and already knew what would happen. I didn't see any point in telling them what they already knew. I will have to amend my ways.


I try to contribute to the forum by describing some technique or gizmo that I have just dawned upon that I think others might find useful.

#97959 Insulating Ceramic Cups?

Posted by docweathers on 24 December 2015 - 08:32 PM

At 3 lbs, one could get your daily workout drinking your coffee.


How well does it insulate?

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#95097 Reconstituting Wax Resist

Posted by docweathers on 01 November 2015 - 02:55 PM

Here is the link to  ceramic supply chicago's on line catalog   http://www.ceramicsu...ine Catalog.pdf


The wax resist is the very last item in the catalog... on page 14

#93910 De-Airing Pugmill Conversion

Posted by docweathers on 07 October 2015 - 07:39 PM

I have a first draft of my de airing conversion operational. I threaded a half inch nipple into the barrel immediately after the blades. It extends about 3/8 of an inch in the barrel. On the leeward side to the clay travel path it is carved back about a quarter of an inch. On top of the nipple is bolted the lid to a peanut butter jar. A second hole and fittings pass a quarter-inch plastic tube from my $50 harbor freight vacuum pump to the bottom of the jar. For a vacuum chamber, the peanut butter jar is screwed into the lid upside down. On initial tests, this all seems to work pretty well. I'm sure Rube would approve. Pictures are attached.


Suggestions please

Attached Files

#93645 De-Airing Pugmill Conversion

Posted by docweathers on 02 October 2015 - 03:09 PM

It sounds like I am making a problem where there is none.

#92743 Recipes From John Britt's "the Complete Guide To Mid-Range Glazes...

Posted by docweathers on 17 September 2015 - 10:03 AM

John Britt has graciously allowed Tony Hansen, creator of Insight, to add the recipes from his book, "The Complete Guide To Mid-Range Glazes", into Inside-Live. 
It is still important to buy John's book because it offers far more than just glaze recipes. It's an outstanding book that provides a wealth knowledge about glaze chemistry.
 If anyone has pictures of the glazes on tiles or pots, send them to Hansen or me so that he can add them to Insight-Live. Also, include clay type and firing schedule.

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#92255 Artsy Babble Translation Please

Posted by docweathers on 08 September 2015 - 04:06 PM

I think it is sledged hammered language.

This thing has caught my interest. Attached is a pdf of the seminal
research on International Art English, IAE.  I think it is something that
artists, not just art critics, need to speak... If you want to talk to win
the favor of  the gatekeepers of the art world.

Attached Files

#91773 Cracked Skin And Broken Fingernails

Posted by docweathers on 31 August 2015 - 09:18 PM

Like many folks in pottery, my hands were chapped and cracked while my fingernails were constantly tearing.

I talked to my dermatologist about this. He made two very effective recommendations that I want to pass on.


1. Curel hand cream.. This stuff is unlike anything else I have tried. When you put it on it has the same oily feel of most hand creams. After a few minutes it is absorbed into your skin with no sense of oiliness left. I put a small dab on before I go into  studio then again when I wash up. It has made a huge difference in my skin. You can get the stuff for about $12.00 for 16 oz  at Walmart or Walgreens


2. Daily dose of Biotin. I take 1000mg. It takes about 4 month to see the difference,... for your fingernails to grow out. At that point, the difference is dramatic. No more torn or broken fingernails. You can get this stuff cheap on Amazon or eBay.

#89664 Ball Milling

Posted by docweathers on 27 July 2015 - 10:15 PM

Might not be able to get simpler than this. Bill Schran originally posted the link on Clayart.

What kind of wine is that french man adding? :)

#87207 $20 Vertical Slab Roller That Takes Very Little Space.

Posted by docweathers on 15 June 2015 - 07:08 PM

  Attached are some more pictures of the slab roller.   They're pretty self-explanatory. 
  The strap metal is 1 1/2" by 1/8" and 1 by 1/8"
  Turning a wing bolts adjusts the thickness of the slab. 
  The cord is nylon clothes line. 
  In the stirrup picture you will see  2 stirrups.   I usually only use the bottom one but if I'm pulling a very long slab I will have to also step step on the higher one.
One thing that may not be clear from the pictures is that the top of the bungee hooks into a loop in the top of the rope so that it pulls down and thus pulls the back sheet of canvass up when you remove your foot.
  The  17" wide rollers are from a junked package moving conveyor that the local post office scrapped and it ended up in at my scrap metal recycling source. They have PVC tube slipped over them and glued to make them a little larger.
  The scrap metal and rollers were purchased at $0.35 a pound and weigh about 10 pounds total
The canvas was about $10 and there were assorted bolts and nuts for about $4.
Judy asked if different canvasses could be swapped out. If you put hooks vs just tieing the canvas to the rope, it would work well..
The basic idea of this roller could be adapted in many ways and sizes.

Attached Files

#87016 Lid Making Tool

Posted by docweathers on 12 June 2015 - 01:23 PM

  I tried Peters drop lid making technique. I could never get the clay centered enough on the hump  mold..   So I extended the idea a bit. I put three small countersink bolts from the bottom of a plastic bat,.   1 on center and 2 of them about 1.5 inches out from center. Then I made a series of hump molds on top of that bat (so I was sure the pin holes were lined up),  similar to Peter's, for different size lids. 
You can put a slab of clay over it or just a lump on top to center and shape.
  This gadget makes very thin, even lids quickly. The thing I like best is that you can add knobs, and decoration in the same operation.

Attached Files

#87015 $40 "envirovent" For Electric Kiln

Posted by docweathers on 12 June 2015 - 01:05 PM

  Here are some pictures of an "enviroevent" that I built for my Skutt 1227 kiln 
  Total cost was about $40, most of which was for the blower off of ebay. 
  It works very well.

Attached Files

#80330 Green Soap And Drape Molds

Posted by docweathers on 28 April 2015 - 09:13 PM

I am trying my first experiments using a drape mold. 


There seem to be a number of options:

1. Bisque the mold then lay the clay over it

2. Bisque the mold then rub a layer of green soap on it before laying the clay over it

3. Fire the mold to glaze temp with no glaze then lay the clay over it

4. Fire the mold to glaze temp with no glaze then rub a layer of green soap on it before laying the clay over it

5. Fire the mold to glaze temp with glaze then lay the clay over it

6..Fire the mold to glaze temp with glaze then rub a layer of green soap on it before laying the clay over it.



What are my trade offs for these strategies? Or is there a better way to go? Or????



#78022 Attachments For Wall Pieces

Posted by docweathers on 25 March 2015 - 05:02 PM

 attached is a picture of a technique that I use that seems very secure.


 I use heavy music wire with an 80° bend on each hand which slips into small holes in the plate. These holes can be very small and less than an eighth of an inch deep works fine. Just make sure you bend the ends of the wire so that the weight is resting on the point at the end of the wire. When I plan ahead,  I put these holes in the greenware..Sometimes I forget. Then I to use a small diamond drill To make them.

Attached Files

#77094 Sarah Hillman Glazing

Posted by docweathers on 10 March 2015 - 07:55 PM

Thank you for some very helpful and creative strategies.. I'm going to give them a try. 


I wrote Sarah and this is what she said


"I leave the exterior of the pieces in their natural colour and just spray the colour onto the interior of the bisq pieces very carefully. Any overspray I clean off by hand. I don't use glaze but hand mixed terra sig colours; definition is much harder to achieve with glaze."