To keep my mocha slip damp while the diffusion is going on I have put a steamer that vents into my spray booth. It radically raises the humidity in that small area. The slip dries very slowly or if you're not careful not all. You don't want the blast of steam aimed at your pot.
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docweathersMember Since 30 Jul 2011
Offline Last Active Dec 01 2016 10:27 PM
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- Member Title Gismo Guy
- Age 72 years old
- Birthday September 1, 1944
Cone 6, gas and electric, thrown pottery
Large welded sculpture from scrap metal
Posted by docweathers on 28 September 2016 - 01:56 PM
Here is a handy holder for 5 x 30 mL syringes. It is made from one of the larger size clear plastic containers that my wife gets when she buys food from bulk bins. I just use an X-Acto knife to cut five holes in the bottom. Inside I put an old damp sponge on top of the lid. This keeps the tips from drying out between uses so I can leave the syringes full for long periods of time. It also helps me keep my pigsty a little bit organized.
Sorry about the picture being on its side. It seemed to not matter how I rotate the original, this forum software puts it on its side
- DSC02050 (Small).JPG 70.81KB 1 downloads
Posted by docweathers on 21 September 2016 - 11:20 PM
here are a couple of things I have learned in my experiments
1. sometimes my thick glaze trailing of one glaze upon another would end up with a surface that looked like it was populated with potato chips, i.e. peeling off in flakes that were sticking up strangely. This seems to be solved by mixing a significant portion of Elmers glue in the trailing glaze. This seems to make even very thick application stick well.
2. I started off using tatoo wash bottles. I have switched to using 30 mL plastic syringes from eBay. They are about $6.60 for 10 of them delivered. I seem to have much more consistent control of the flow I suspect because I'm squeezing on a solid column of glaze versus compressing air in the tattoo bottle which in turn would squirt out the glaze... sometimes a little bursts if my glaze were not perfectly even and lump free. With the syringes when you have a little lump you can feel the extra resistance. That's time to do a minor squirt on a test tile to get rid of the obstruction before you spatter it on your pot.
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Posted by docweathers on 26 August 2016 - 09:57 AM
I am using tattoo wash bottles from eBay. You need a dozen of them for about $10. They seem to work well and are easy to clean. I like the long L-shaped delivery spout. Instead of putting needles in the end to keep them from drying out I use electricians wire nuts to seal the end of the delivery to between uses. They're much easier than trying to stick a pin in a tiny hole that is full of goop when your hands are slimy.
I'm not actually doing slip trailing. I'm doing glaze trailing on bisque.I did not want to add confusion by making that distinction. I have found that this works very well if you just soak the pot in water for a while so the bisque is saturated. Being a real amateur at this, I wanted to make sure I could easily get my mistakes off over and over.
Now I'm working on some nonrunning glazes ffrom the majolica world.
Posted by docweathers on 22 April 2016 - 11:03 AM
I really like the "magnet tools" approach. I am the author of the Ceramics Monthly article by that name. It has one flaw, me. When I am intently involved in making something at the limits of my skills, which is most of the time, I don't have the habit patterns established to get tools automatically put back on a magnet, or metal strip. I tend to drop them on the closest horizontal surface.
One handy way I've come up with to find tools with magnets attached is to scan my pigsty with one of those Harbor Freight magnets on a stick. It's amazing how strange things suddenly pop out your water bucket, your recycled clay or from a hidden crevasse on the floor.
The idea of various kinds of "floaties" on chamois and sponges is great. It is far better than finding some strange lump in the wall of a large pot.... Which I have done.
As much as I like to recycle everything, I think I will pass the idea of making brushes from recycled skunk.
Posted by docweathers on 21 April 2016 - 11:07 PM
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Posted by docweathers on 21 April 2016 - 11:07 PM
Posted by docweathers on 31 March 2016 - 12:42 AM
I have gotten into making large platters lately, which are far too large to trim on my giffin Grip. I made three new fingers for my GG that grip the platter from the inside versus the outside. This works well because the inside of my platters tend to be more round than the edges. we are nothing more than three metal rods with some stiff but not rigid closed cell foam glued on the end of the rods. I don't know what kind of foam is. It just came on some junk I bought delivered by the UPS man. the dark blue layer is stiffer and provides some extra support for the softer clear foam. I used a 6000 glue to stick it all together. Pictures are attached. They pretty self-explanatory
Posted by docweathers on 29 March 2016 - 12:18 PM
In a discussion with Min about improving mocha diffusion she pointed out this link to me. It describes a way of doing a mocha diffusion like pattern on wood with electricity. I'm wondering if there is a way to adapt this to a kind of mocha diffusion for glazes at ^6.
I'm thinking about building one of these things. However, before I launch, I would appreciate any ideas about whether it would actually work with ceramic glazes and what would be the best way of adapting it to ceramics.
I can get ordinary mocha diffusion to work but not at the level I would like to see it.
Posted by docweathers on 21 March 2016 - 02:25 PM
I thought folks who sell their work would be interested in this research article I just found. The article is attached but basically it says the bigger your signature the more narcissistic you are likely to be and the more money you will get for your art.
- Narcissistic artists sell more art, for more money -- ScienceDaily.pdf 132.22KB 68 downloads
Posted by docweathers on 20 February 2016 - 01:13 PM
In my continuing effort to organize the pigsty around my wheel, I just made a simple gizmo to hold my metal ribs.
It is just a tension spring, a strip of spring steel metal strapping, and a couple of magnets. The metal strap provides something to secure the whole gizmo as well as providing a slight curvature to the spring. The curvature makes it easier to get the ribs between the spring coils. The magnets provide an easy way of attaching it to the metal shelving on three sides of my wheel
As a side note, if any of you fancy that spring steel metal strapping used to hold cargo down to pallets , you better grab some now. It is being quickly replaced with plastic strapping, which makes it harder to find. I use it to make all kinds of odd little tools.
Posted by docweathers on 31 January 2016 - 10:47 PM
I am certainly guilty of not reporting back on results of the advice that I've gotten. I never really thought about anyone giving a hoot since the advisor usually seemed quite knowledgeable and already knew what would happen. I didn't see any point in telling them what they already knew. I will have to amend my ways.
I try to contribute to the forum by describing some technique or gizmo that I have just dawned upon that I think others might find useful.