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Member Since 03 Jul 2011
Offline Last Active Oct 20 2011 09:04 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: What percent of moist clay by weight is water? I'm trying to see if it ma...

05 September 2011 - 10:04 PM

The cost of just the ingredients is not the biggest factor. Mixing your own clay is another time intensive step to add onto all the other steps of making pottery.
Can you afford the time involved? How about the price of the pugger? Compare the price of the equipment to make all the clay to how much already made clay actually costs...

You're right that cost isn't the only factor.
I don't really want to put in the extra effort, but I probably have more time than money these days.
I have access to a mixer so I wouldn't have to buy any equipment, but I'd have to do some wedging.

In Topic: What percent of moist clay by weight is water? I'm trying to see if it ma...

05 September 2011 - 08:16 PM

Water is roughly 30% of wet clay.


I guess to follow that up, if I am mixing clay and let's say I have 200 lbs of dry materials, should I shoot for adding about 60lbs of water? And for comparison, that would give me 260lbs of moist clay?

In Topic: Low Fire Glaze on High Fire Clay?

05 September 2011 - 07:50 PM

If you fire to cone 10 and then apply glaze (any glaze) it will adhere, but won't be great. Try it though -- warm the pot first before applying the glaze.
I used to do what you are suggesting because I liked the low fire glazes better -- I was doing bright colors. However, I've found lots of good mid fire glazes (cone 6, that is) that are the same, and better, than the low fire glazes. And of course there is a huge advantage in the clay being vitrified. There are lots of commercial mid fire glazes in great colors -- take a look at Amaco and Laguna and Speedball.
As for cone 10 glazes...I have no experience. Are you using porcelain?

Yeah I think mid fire is a good option. I'm doing all cone 10 right now but also have access to low fire glazes somewhere else. Some porcelain, some stoneware.

Porcelain artists do this all the time ... Fire high first then glaze fire low. On functional pieces they would have a high fire glaze on the eating surface during the high fire, then the low fire glaze on the outside or bottom for the low firing. They do this because porcelain slumps so needs to be well supported during high temps.

The glaze will not want to stick to a vitrified piece so you can pre heat the pottery in an oven. Some people add cmc gum to the glaze to make it adhere.

Neat, thanks for the info. I will definitely glaze the inside at least first if I do this.
The low fire glaze would be coming out of those jars. Do you have any idea whether painting cmc gum over the area to be low fire glazed would work? Or would some amount of glaze have to be removed from the jar, cmc gum added, then discard what is not used? Or just dump it back into the jar?

In Topic: Can I mix a smooth stoneware with porcelain?

30 August 2011 - 07:59 AM

If the colors are the same, if the maturing temperatures are the same; nothing. If there are differences it depends on the colors and the cone temperature you choose to fire. Test and find out. Stoneware and porcelain are very similar in composition.

I'm using Armadillo brand clay. I will mix Balcones White and cone 10 Porcelain.
Maybe this will be kind of like Laguna B-Mix, which is more expensive here.

In Topic: Pottery Wheel Torque And Stopping Speed?

25 August 2011 - 04:53 AM

I've had a Shimpo Gold since the late 80's and it's still strong as a goat, but over the last few years the noise level has grown until I can no longer tolerate it. I recently bought a "like new" used Pacifica which suffers from the low torque problem also. I'm just wondering if I might be able to convert the controls of the Pacifica for use on my Shimpo...I'm thinking the result may be a quiet goat. Any of you have opinions or help with this type of conversion? Do you think it might work?

Maybe you can get to the noisy part and lubricate it or replace a component