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S. Dean

Member Since 18 Jun 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:37 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea 1

Yesterday, 06:50 PM


Chances are the rim will deform and go out of round unless what it is sitting on can shrink at the same rate as the pot. Roll out some of the same clay as the pot is made from, it can be super thin. Cut out a pancake of clay just big enough to rest the rim on (can cut the center of the pancake out to save clay). Dry the pancake between batts or boards or whatever so it stays flat. Bisque it then place your upside pot on it when glaze firing. The pot and pancake will shrink at the same rate so the rim will stay true. If you are using porcelain slap a quick coat of kiln wash on the pancake. 


I wouldn't worry about off gassing, casseroles, french butter dishes, boxes, lidded jars etc are all fired as a closed unit.


I've been thinking about this

I'll be using stoneware, but won't the pot stick to the pancake when glaze firing?






Assuming that by putting wax resist on the rim you are doing so to create an unglazed surface, this unglazed rim should not stick to the unglazed pancake.  As Min pointed out earlier, this is quite similar to firing an unglazed portion of a lid on an unglazed gallery of the pot (a common practice).  You should have no sticking issues with stoneware.  However, this may not work with porcelain since a lot of porcelains will flux a bit at maturity.  This can result in "plucking" - i.e., when the porcelain becomes so pyroplastic that unglazed portions can fuse to whatever it is touching.  In that case, adding some alumina in the wax resist is useful - just make sure you don't use this wax with alumina for any resist over glaze



In Topic: Finding Bats To Fit Shimpo Rk-2 Wheel Head

20 January 2017 - 09:08 PM

North star sells bats . I had 2 RK2 s in my class room and ordered bats with both 8" and 10" holes. 

Northstar will custom drill for you. <snip>


I have a Creative Industries wheel with 9" bat pin spacing and requested a custom drill from NorthStar with both 9" and 10" holes.  This would allow me the flexibility to use the bats on my CI and other wheels that have the more common 10" spacing (Brent, Thomas Stuart, new Speedball, etc). 


While the holes were drilled at the correct spacing, unfortunately, I didn't specify that I wanted them offset 90 degrees from each other.  I received bats with both sets of holes drilled in the same line or axis.  The end result is that these bats have two pairs of holes that are separated from each other by 1/2 inch (from center to center). This really makes it a pain to find the right hole when trimming a platter and you can't see the holes when trying to place the bat back on the wheel.   If you ask for custom drilling, please learn from my experience and be specific about what you want.

In Topic: Finding Bats To Fit Shimpo Rk-2 Wheel Head

20 January 2017 - 08:18 PM

Speedball (formerly Creative Industries) plastic bats have 2 sets of pin holes - 8" and 10".


Speedball bats actually have 9" and 10" pin holes.  The old Creative Industries MP/HP/Jr. used a 9" bat pin spacing while most other manufacturers were 10". 

In Topic: Broken Ceramic Element Holders

09 January 2017 - 12:32 PM

Here's some info from the L&L site: https://hotkilns.com...element-holders


My gut reaction is that I would go with Method 2 unless there were only a few element holders to be replaced.  Maybe Neil can weigh in on this from his wealth of experience.


I believe that L&L updated the design of their element holders at some point. I'd suggest that you call L&L with your kiln model and serial number and find out what your options are.

In Topic: Warping Of Platters

22 December 2016 - 10:01 AM

Hi Andrea,


Lovely work.  Some more questions for you in addition to Roberta's:


What are you using for your mold (plaster, bisque, wood, plastic, other?)

How stiff are the platters when you are removing them from the mold? 

How are you forming/rolling your slabs?

How do you transfer the slabs into the mold?

How are you removing the clay from the mold?


 It could be a handling issue as clay has a memory. Minimizing handling and flexing the clay might help.  However, some porcelains are very finicky for hand building and warpage is the price to be paid for working with that clay body despite careful handling.


Please tell us more about your process and maybe we can try to offer some long distance advice.