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LauraAnnaMember Since 30 May 2013
Offline Last Active Jul 01 2013 12:10 PM
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Posts I've Made
11 June 2013 - 11:52 AM
Any time a piece of mine comes out in close proximity to the shape it went in, I celebrate the kiln! YAAAYYY Kiln! Do a little ceremonial dance around it.... Oh-EEE-Oh....EEEE-OHHH
06 June 2013 - 10:48 AM
I’m glad to learn about the temporary nature of Lustres in regular contact –thank you for that warning. These will be used sparingly as accents, and I’m ok if the finish eventually wears off. That’s when I pull out my handy drummel tool, pop them out, and replace with new ones
I’m new to glaze technicals so with regard to Overglaze vs Lustre I was just recycling phrases I saw elsewhere, either on this site or other supply sites. Duncan site says “Mother of Pearl is a luster, an overglaze”. But it seems I should not trust their wording. Would it be more accurate to say that Lustre is a sub-category of Overglazes?
Thank you for the referral to your more professional Lustre product. Currently the website says these products are unavailable, but perhaps it is because I am not registered.
Very interesting about the glaze/lustre bonding conditions you describe and “softness” of the base glaze. When you say “sink in” – is that a good thing or bad thing? Sink in, as in proper cohesion and optimal iridescent effect (in the case of Mother of Pearl), or sink in, as in the overall effect becomes muted? Granted, there is no bad/good in art - it's all perception, but in my case, I want the full monty! So "good" in this case is full iridescence.
I will read the articles you suggested. I have some immediate questions, but they may be answered there. Ultimately, I will just have to test, as you suggested. But as many other users here have expressed, research helps reduce erroneous and wasteful purchases.
Your work is stunning by the way – just brilliantly stunning!!
05 June 2013 - 10:52 AM
Thanks so much to both of you. Am searching for the book immediately. My goal is to do more researching and testing. I think part of my problem is I have almost every range and brand of glaze there is and about 5/6 different clays. I think simplification and focusing in on my main interest in what I want to achieve now is what i need to do. i was just wanting to try everything and anything. I do all methods also, but Joyce michaud's Asian coiling is my preference. Thanks again. Cyndi
Depending on where you are, your local library may have a copy. I just read this thread and did the same thing - search for this book! And lo and behold my local library has 2 copies! So I requested one today. Amazon retails it for $190!! Library = Free. Best of luck
31 May 2013 - 02:29 PM
I only saw this post today and, boy, what a super idea! Thank you for sharing. I have an iron door scraper in front of my basement door and never thought of using it in that way. Will try the technique subito....
Evelyne, I would love to know if your iron piece works for tiles! Everything I look at now, I think - can it make tiles??? Please post if you try it!
Exactly!! I'm now looking at my tiny decorative candy mold trays and going hmmmm..... can you imagine how cool these would be as little mosaic tiles? Or tile overlays!
31 May 2013 - 02:20 PM
In response to LauraAnna, I'm glad this clicked with you for your backsplash idea! The light diffuser I found made my tiles come out to exactly 1/2". I have seen other diffusers that I would like to have, but can't seem to find them for sale. :-) I love the pillow effect each tile has, that would be hard to do if you were making individual tiles. I have not experimented using texture, only because I was thinking of how much dirt can catch on walls and floors and thought I'd better stick with smooth! As for the clay and glaze, this is a LARGE area of discussion. I used Highwater's Brownstone clay and I fire to cone 6. I use many glazes from Kentucky Mudworks and Amaco. You would need to find a clay body you like to work with, or if you are firing at a community studio, you'll have to use what they use. Low fire glazes are much prettier, but I don't know how well they would hold up in tile work, especially if it was around water. You may find other discussions on here about tiles and clay bodies. If you accomplish anything, please post something here for us to see! Good Luck!
Thank you Paula! This just keeps getting better! 1/2" was exactly what I was hoping for (although 3/8 or 5/8 would work nicely too) - and glazes from my own back yard! (I'm in KY). Here is a micro mosaic (5/8") with texture stamps. As you can see, the simpler the texture, the more light it reflects. Comes down to preference I guess.
I have more homework to do, but the clay suggestion is a great start - thanks!