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Member Since 28 May 2013
Offline Last Active Dec 05 2013 12:36 AM

Topics I've Started

Acceptable Texture?

14 July 2013 - 02:16 PM

I have lots of groggy clay. I have stopped using sponges on it. I have started using a rib to smooth out what the rib can access on the pot. Even so, my pots have rough spots. They are cone 5 stoneware and thoroughly glazed and sealed, but grainy in places. People want to buy my mugs but I am nervous about selling them when they are not perfectly smooth. Is this considered substandard? What is your take on this? 

Tried This?

14 July 2013 - 02:06 PM

Hello! Has anyone tried adding Floetrol to their glaze to make it easier to apply? Did it work out for you? Is there any reason this obviously would cause problems? 


Thanks :)



Rough surfaces

11 June 2013 - 04:44 PM


I have am a newbie and having issues I would love your thoughts on.

I started with earthenware - mostly white, but also some sandy red. Every firing and every glaze I used, except for one firing using the same glazes, have had pinholing problems - multiple glazes, all commercial, and multiple clay bodies. I brush my glazes. I have used different types of brushes, including foam brushes. The kiln I have been using is a used Duncan Artists +, small in home electric. It uses a kiln sitter and has a timer but no peepholes. I tried leaving the kiln to cool for 24 hrs after firing as well as propping the lid at the beginning to allow gasses to escape. I can't get a piece to come out with a smooth surface. I am really frustrated.

Now I have moved on to midfire stoneware. All the clay I have been using is quite sandy. I thought that glazing would create a smooth surface over the natural roughness of the clay. Once again I am brushing commercial glazes. My surfaces are even rougher after firing. It almost looks like pinholing but I think its just the sand in the clay. I even burnished a piece before glazing it, and its still rough with a clear glaze over it. Its almost like the glaze enhanced the rough texture. Seriously frustrated. What should I try next? I have a lot of sandy clay and I want to use it.

I don't know if it matters, but the clay is all Laguna clay. Also, not sure if it is relevant, but the earthenware comes out of the kiln sounding like stoneware or porcelain when you strike it... . . Not sure why. Its still very absorbent.

Are my rough textured glazed stoneware pieces that are made with food safe materials actually food safe? What about the pieces with pinholes?
What do I do to create a smooth surface? I never had this problem when I was using school materials and dipping my glazes, but I can't dip at this point in the game and have very limited resources.

Glazing over clear?

30 May 2013 - 12:17 PM

I did some sgraffito and underglaze decoration covered in clear glaze on some pots with nice form. I don't like the decoration though and some of my pots tipped over in the kiln and stuck together marring the glaze. Can I reglaze over clear glaze? Also, can I put an earthenware glaze over a fully fired stoneware piece with a clear glaze and refire at the lower temperature with a decent possibility of success? Or is this futile? Thanks for your insight Posted Image

Will this work?

28 May 2013 - 01:41 PM

I am a new ceramic artist and have limited resources. I like to use my forms as canvas. I recently started working with Laguna Speckled Buff cone 5 stoneware and did some decoration that I would like to have white on but I have no white glaze or underglaze. I do, however, have a giant bucket of Laguna Cone 04 white clay slop/slip. I was thinking of painting a thin mixed version of this onto my stoneware for the white I need. Anyone ever done anything like this before? Will it melt all over the kiln (its not mine)? Is this a potentially dangerous experiment? I have worked really hard on this commissioned piece and have already applied the slip to the bisqued piece but am wondering if it was a dumb idea and if I should wash it off? Your experiences and thoughts are appreciated :-)