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Member Since 28 Apr 2013
Offline Last Active Jan 20 2015 07:46 PM

Topics I've Started

The consequence of removing "grog" from a clay body

31 May 2013 - 09:32 AM

My clay is "yixing" and it comes to be bone dry. Then I crush it up in to chunks re constitute it and then add a little plum vinegar or beer and rest it. This is working OK.

The other day I added too much water and turned a batch to slip. I poured the slip in to low containers and let it evaporate.

Well, I inadvertently separated the clay! One of bodies is without any grit, and one has too much.

But could this be useful? I've been trying to get my teapots to have a higher shine and the grit free clay is VERY shiny-- and it has a lot of sparkling mica flakes too.

Yixing teapot process from an amateur (round two)

25 May 2013 - 01:29 PM

I decided to document the whole process again to see if I could get some feedback on it.

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I've gone over how to get to this stage before. This is a hollow "egg of clay" mad by paddling and pounding. I've smoothed it with rubber which seems to work best. I think it looks OK on the top.

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But the bottom is still less than ideal The more I try to smooth it the more lines appear. Since I have a lot more work to do I call this "good enough" and move forward.

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Scrape the top flat with ox horn to prepare to make the lid assembly.

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When I'm not wokring on a part and if I don't want it to dry out it goes in the muro.

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Videos of people making relief decorations in monochrome...

20 May 2013 - 09:41 PM

I'm thinking about how I decorate the surface of my teapots. It'd really help to see some videos of people making things like flowers and other nature theamed decoration on the surface of smaller clay objects.

What good videos are out there?

I've found a lot on "texturing" -- but I want to do more realistic decorations like this:

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Of course it need not be teapot-- though if it focuses on Chinese themes even better!

Will firing make imperfections more or less noticeable?

16 May 2013 - 07:57 AM

I'm making unglazed-ware-- specifically yixing teapots. I won't get to fire them for a very long time. Which is fine, I nee to practice.

But I wonder what firing will do.

How will it change burnishing?

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Is burnishing worth it?

Will it tone down imperfections or heighten them?

My goal here is *perfection* for it to look almost machine-made. I'm always looking for way to improve symmetry and smoothness.

What kind of domestic clay should I try?

05 May 2013 - 09:51 AM

This forum has been a very big help. I'm working basically alone and it's so good to have a place to pick up some wisdom from those who have done the craft longer.

A rather accomplish potter that I know from another forum suggested that I might want to try some non-yixing clay since it's cheaper.

I'd like to do this but I don't know what to try-- the clay that they give you in pottery classes ay my community college would not be OK. Polymer-clay can't be used since it isn't food-safe, but it's closer in the way that it works to the yixing clay (though the yixing clay is much much less plastic.)

1. high fire
2. looks good in the buff
3. superior detail
4. "stiff" hard to explain... it's just stiff even when super saturated with water
5. will be kind to tea
6. can be burnished
7. rings like a bell when fired

anything like this or close? 5 out of 7 would be great!

For those who don't know from the other posts or general knowledge this is how the clay is worked:

(courtesy of ceramicartsdaily... god this site is so helpful!)